Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Fern Gully Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Bolt Wars | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty sure I have climbed these in the past
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Doctors Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Doctor Megatrip | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Fantastic route in perfect Skaha style. Seems there is 2 ways to do the crux, a dyno from the left, or thin technical climbing from the right.
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Retardant Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Scavenger | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun stemming in the lower corner to thin edges above.
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5.9 | Scirocco | 17m, 8 | Don't Bother | ||||
Odd, ledgey arete with poor bolting.
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5.10d | ★★ Terry's route | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A really fun sequence though the roof, then eases above.
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5.9 | ★ Phone a Friend | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Technical climbing on small edges, eases higher up
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5.7 | ★ Lake View Arête | 15m, 7 | Don't Bother | ||||
Fantastic location, but the climbing leaves something to be desired
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5.10b | ★★ Sport Mountaineering | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Engaging climbing over some decent exposure!
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Go Anywhere | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Viagra - with athenais pioger | 13m, 5 | Average | ||||
Weird moves and hard for the grade.
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5.10d ~5.10d | ★ Ooh Wah - with athenais pioger | 15m, 5 | |||||
Start right below bolt. Stick clip advised. The crux is the bottom section.
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Tue 7th May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Retardant Wall | |||||||
5.10c | Happy Face - with athenais pioger | 17m, 7 | |||||
Thin edges all the way !
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5.10b | ★★ Scavenger - with athenais pioger | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool moves !!
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5.7 | ★ Lake View Arête - with athenais pioger | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a view !
Led in Crocs 😅
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5.11a | ★★ Red Skin - with athenais pioger | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not too hard for the grade
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5.11c | ★★ Sunset Strip - with athenais pioger | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thin !
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5.10b | ★★ Sport Mountaineering - with athenais pioger | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool alpine style !
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Claim It All | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Road Warrior - with athenais pioger | 19m, 6 | |||||
Felt easier than the grade
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5.11a | ★★ Press the Flesh - with athenais pioger | 20m | |||||
Cool ! Starts from the beginning!
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5.11a | ★★ Colours of the Wind - with athenais pioger | 20m | |||||
Slightly harder than it's neighbour
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5.9 | ★ Morning Thief - with athenais pioger | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a in guidebook but agree with 5.9. fun climb !
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5.10c | ★★ Faint Hope Claws - with athenais pioger | 24m, 9 | |||||
Not as sustained as the guidebook says
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Claim It All | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Pandiculation - with Jessica Joy | ||||||
Side pulls, delicate feet and a few crimps. Fun!
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Fri 3rd May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Claim It All | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Faint Hope Claws - with Jessica Joy | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Spectacular, sustained crimps. The middle finger knuckle lock to deep pocket to crimp was a blast!
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5.10a | ★★ Odyssey - with Jessica Joy | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very cool. Good moves, and I think I know why it's called 'the odyssey' - it just keeps on going! Loads of fun!
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Fri 3rd May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Terraces | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Flying Squirrel - with Jessica Joy | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun! I got every move on lead, but now to string it together.
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5.11b | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Jessica Joy | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice to finally send this! It definitely felt a lot easier this season.
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Thu 2nd May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Red Tail South | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Facility - with Tana Jukes | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb, with quality, technical moves!
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Thu 2nd May 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Red Tail Lower | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Hiking With Howie - with Tana Jukes | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great moves and a fun, if cryptic, roof. Quality!
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Another Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Pryed and Joy | 10m, 4 | |||||
It was raining so TR instead of a lead.
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Red Tail Upper | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Assholes of August — 2 attempts | 30m | |||||
TR once and then linked with preface 5.10a below for 48m. First move is 10a the rest is sustained 5.9-5.8.
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Red Tail Lower | |||||||
5.10a Hard | ★ Preface | 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some think it’s soft I thought it was hard. Unique side pulls. LINKED into assholes of August!
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.10b ~5.10c | ★★ Genetic Mirror — 5 attempts | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10c in Marc Bourdons 2018 Skaha climbing guidebook
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5.10a | ★★ Plum Line | 34m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
BD 0.75 to tame the runout. The runout is bigger then the guide book makes it out to be in my opinion.
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Tue 23rd Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Red Tail South | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Dogmatism | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Raspberry Mourning Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Bolt Warts - with Victoria Guba | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It’s a long run between the final bolt and the anchor. Easy climbing but you need to keep your head.
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Terraces | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Life in the Slow Lane | 25m, 11 | |||||
getting back to leading again good route unique movement
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Great White Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Logan's Run | 22m, 11 | |||||
first route Skaha
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5.13a | ★★★ Air Test | 40m | |||||
managed the moves but linking would be hard
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Diamondback | |||||||
5.11a ~5.11b | ★★ Cytotoxic | 26m, 11 | |||||
Hard gaston and crimping
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Great White Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Wings of Desire | 34m, 12 | |||||
Stoked to be leading again, bolts were a bit spaced for extra fun
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Shady Lane | |||||||
5.11a Hard | ★★★ Footloose | 25m | |||||
V hard for grade
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5.11c | ★★★ V-Tachy | 20m, 12 | |||||
very cool and crimpy
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5.12a | ★★★ Freak Show | 32m, 15 | |||||
Need to work on some bicep curls to getting better at long undercling traverse!
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Maternal Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Banana Bypass | 30m | |||||
bailed halfway up because of heat, holds become real slippery
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Werbworld | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Lost in Paradise — 2 attempts | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
one-hang
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Wed 10th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Diamondback | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Paceline - with Evan | 30m, 14 | |||||
My poor little fingers. It really just doesn't let up the whole time, good fun!
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ The Real Special Forces - with Meredith Apple | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One last classic 5.11 to wrap up our time in Skaha.
Superb and memorable dancing up tiny edges. |
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Blipvert Tower | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Apricot jam — 2 attempts - with Meredith Apple | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the most fun routes ever. Dropped it at the last hold trying to reel it in and clip the anchor but couldn't quite manage it. As of the time of writing this, I still feel like the pump hasn't quite receded.
If you're ever in Skaha, get on this climb. |
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Doctors Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Falling into Blackness - with Meredith Apple | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Calling this 5.10 is offensive.
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5.11c | ★★ Grin and Bear It - with Meredith Apple | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Dropped the first try lost and confused. Ultra techy.
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5.11a | ★★★ Naturopath - with Meredith Apple | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It hard to describe how good this pitch is, so I won't.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Belfry | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Womb with a View - with Meredith Apple | 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a classic! The move into the "womb" is crazy. Couldn't work it out on the fly, got it in a one-sit.
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5.12a | ★★★ Blade Runner — 3 attempts - with Meredith Apple | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Third shot! What a classic. Steep juggy corner climbing to a traddy finger-lock stemming corner at the top before a mantle out to the anchor? Glorious.
Mantle out = 5 stars. |
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Terraces | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Kiss Kiss Bang Bang - with Meredith Apple | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This wall is awesome. Some of the best moderates I've ever been on.
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Diamondback | |||||||
5.11a ~5.11b | ★★ Cytotoxic - with Meredith Apple | 26m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolutely desperate. Some of the most garbage holds in the world I'm pretty sure. Ultra technical and weirdly spooky.
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Great White Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Bake - with Meredith Apple | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty average but we climbed it in heavy fog and shite conditions so maybe the holds feel better sometimes.
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5.12d | ★★★ In the Skin of a Lion - with Meredith Apple | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3 days and a bunch of tries but came together pretty fast! Stoked. Great power endurance cranking on small but positive edges. Stoked as hell.
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5.11b | ★★★ Test of The Ironman | 35m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not quite as classics as Wings of Desire but probably a better warmup route. Fun corner climbing with a sweet gaston/palm press move at the top.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Shady Lane | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ V-Tachy | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Nails and committing. Super good climbing.
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5.12a | ★★★ Freak Show | 32m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Was pumped for 3 to 5 business days after this.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Tottering Pillar | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Bottom Line | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Soooooo good.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Terraces | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Flying Squirrel | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Full gas turbo-crimping
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Belfry | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Goin' sailin' — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Pretty good! Easy but pumpy up to a hard boulder guarding the chains. Dropped it there 3 times before moving on.
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5.11c | ★★★ Rock Soft | 23m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mega classic! Easy corner jugging before blasting out a steep and exposed roof at the top. Wiiiiicked.
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Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Great White Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Acid test — 2 attempts | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Hard move off the slab to gain the headwall (heel in my mouth) followed by pumpy underclings to the top! Awesome.
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Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Go Anywhere | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ All the Way to Oo Wah | 13m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good fun, easy corner.
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5.10a | ★ Biceps and Balls | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good face climbing! 5.10s here can be offensively fingery.
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Great White Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Vigorous | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun and hard! Dropped the first try cause it was less warm-uppy than expected.
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5.10b | ★★ Logan's Run | 22m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun traddy corner! Good warmup.
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5.11c | ★★★ Wings of Desire | 34m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best routes at the grade anywhere. Unreal.
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Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Doctors Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Brown Stuff In my Knickers — 2 attempts | 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A thriller worthy of its name. If you want a bit of zing in your day, try this out. I’m lichen it! 20m from base to rappel chains, 5 bolts, well protected crux. FA: Robin Barley, Kwon Neng Foo.
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Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Red Tail Lower | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Hiking With Howie | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice move at crux
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Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Kids' Cliff | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ 'S Cool Wall | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice moves towards the top
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Tue 19th Mar 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Stouthearted | 34m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Supervalue long route, abundant microholds and great view
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Grassy Glades | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Short Claim Jumpers | 18m, 7 | |||||
Weird ankle incident one bolt from the top. Rolled it and came off. First route for 2024 I guess.
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
The Terraces | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Lost Highway — 2 attempts - with David Pham | 17m, 8 | |||||
Fricken hard! Couldn't move past the lip on the onsight. Second go tried David's heel hook beta which was scary but worked then was undone big time the hard traverse sequence. Lots of fun
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5.11a | ★★★ Kiss Kiss Bang Bang - with David Pham | 20m, 9 | |||||
Sick climb! Pretty tough top section
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5.10a | ★ Black Bee - with David Pham | 28m, 13 | |||||
Really fun climb, not super strenuous but some cool moves
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Great White Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Wings of Desire | 34m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Soft
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Looking Glass - with Harley Mills | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard and crimpy
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5.10b | ★★ While the Crows Away - with Harley Mills | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool bouldery start to a slabby finish
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Tsunami Wall | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ In the Nicks of Time - with Carleigh Burns | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Oh man the frustration was real with this one. Got all the moves figured out, went for the send, botched the start, started again, dropped the second crux. And so was the theme for the day. No send haha. A lot of punch and varied climbing in such a small climb. Would love to see some beta, as the tiny side-pull undercling thing I used was exhausting! Get on it ha
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Looking Glass - with Carleigh Burns | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just delightful face climbing on great rock
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5.10b | ★★ While the Crows Away - with Carleigh Burns | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice classy face climbing at the top
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Claim It All | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★ Piggy Monster - with Fiftyshadesofjory | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun climb. Led with a couple rests, no falls.
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Great White Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Wings of Desire - with claire xian | 34m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Climbed from the ground linking in from the route on the right.
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Timorous - with Harley Mills | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bouldery crux, satisfying when you get it
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Doctors Wall | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Dr seuss's wild ride - with Carleigh Burns | 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A wild ride indeed. Got all the moves pretty quick up until the final crux. Faffed around trying to find a way to do the top crux efficiently. Found one super hard beta sequence. On the send it became quickly apparent that wasn't going to work hahaha. So back to figuring out the beta. Might use the double crinpy underclings! Heaps of fun
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Mon 19th Jun 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Special Forces - with claire xian | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Stunning.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Timorous - with Pineapple Deb | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Definitely doable. Two bolts through the roof section is the crux.
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5.10b | ★★ Minor Skirmish - with Steph Coulter | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Doable forsure. Need to get through the start and have enough gas to finish the rest of the climb.
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5.10a | ★★ Stouthearted - with Steph Coulter | 34m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell just before the top :’(
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Red Tail South | |||||||
5.10b | ★ The Price is Too High | 20m, 1 | |||||
There is a line of bolts directly right of the tree suitable for leading, did not do this with trad gear. Suggested Grading 5.9/10a. 8 or 9 bolts
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Ochre Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Ebbing Strength - with Luke Abrahams | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quality! Would go back for this!
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Fri 12th May 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ The Real Special Forces - with Ben Strachan | 25m, 10 | |||||
Still hard
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Morning Glory | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Being There | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux is low, and not immediately obvious
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
Kids' Cliff | |||||||
5.12a ~5.12a | ★ Rapunzel | 18m, 8 | Average | ||||
Wanted to jump on to see how it felt. Definitely a sandbag at the original grade of 11c. 12a in the new guidebook seems more appropriate. Super thin crux.
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Skaha | |||||||
The Terraces | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Clockwork Orange — 2 attempts | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rad climb!
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Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Skaha | |||||||
Canoe Buttress Canoe Buttress Left | |||||||
5.10d Hard | ★ Outrigger | 16m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky to read crux at the permadraw, but at least its a good rest!
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Skaha | |||||||
Grassy Glades | |||||||
5.11b | ★ Thumbstruck | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Although the crux is getting to the first bolt, the rest of the route doesn't let up much and stays engaging to the anchors.
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