Ascents in Shannon Falls having Beta

Jam jam jam

So bloody classic! Usually cruisy but always interesting, in the most insane position next to the falls! It’s got everything: splitters on slab, offwidth, traversy slab… totally captures the beauty of Squam. A perfect climbing day!

Nice chill crack

Crimpy, probably missed a hold at the start

It was a big deal to finally lead this marvellous classic!

I can see why this has become an instant classic. Really has all the best bits of Squamish climbing. Slabby hand-cracks, a wicked v-groove, an awesome exposed finger-crack next to a waterfall (rad) and it wouldn't be a true Squamish route without a sandbagged slab traverse. 5.8? What a rip.

Unreal from ground to summit.

Swinging leads with Meredith who got all the money pitches!

Cracking climbing next to a waterfall…not bad. Crazy good line and I won the coin toss and got to lead the money pitches

Cryptic route finding but super fun!

Amazing climb! Bomber jams

good hands.

I had a couple of micros with me to protect the top part. Fun climb

the 3d pitch is a perfect hand-to-fist crack, super fun

Yeah, the best ringlock crag in Squamish!

Simuled the first 4, then linked 5&6 and 7&8. First six pitches are gold, climbing next to a waterfall is pretty special. Top 100 for sure. 1h20m

Nutz only for memes

Such a good climb for those getting into crack climbing. Had a double set of cams in appropriate sizes. Quickly found the foot jams a bit painful in bouldering shoes so opted to just smear outside the crack. Quicker and less painful. Hand jam for glory!

Found this harder than the grade would suggest. Probably started too late in the day. Decided to bail after finishing pitch 1 as pitch 2 was meant to be even more stiff for the grade. In hindsight, should've chosen to do "Spirit of Squamish"

oops, fell on the first move. I did not use the tree

This climb was awesome! The traffic jam lead to us skipping the 4th and 5th pitch and going up the slab next to it instead. Also sweet! Highly recommend if you don't mind crowded climbing. Swimming hole at the top is a treat too!

Did a harder slab pitch after the forest traverse

Extra star for setting.

Splitter, much tougher (and more painful) than Cat Crack at the same grade. Guide book recommends triples and I would as well if you're not feeling too confident, I did it with doubles and there were some pretty significant runouts (tricams would work really well if you need to supplement, I wish I brought mine).

Excellent. Spirit of Squamish was mobbed, but no one was on this classic!

Linked pitches 2,3 and 4 into one long pitch. Pitch 6 is still my favorite. Great climb!

Funnnn but too many parties up the way and I dropped a cam RIP, the booty stealers have you now

The start is quite different to the rest of the route, once past the crack it becomes angled slab with very few features and just padding up. Nice move on the mantle to gain the vertical face on the last pitch.

Crux was so thin my fingers barely fit in the crack!

Supprisingly it is possible to place a double rack up to 2" on this route. Including 2 racks of nuts!

Moves felt closer to 10a then 5.9 when compared to other routes on the wall.

Cool crack moves all the way up with plenty of gear.

Excellent. Personally think pitch 2 is the money pitch with cool moves all the way to the anchor, although the traverse pitch is pretty unique. Bonus points if you can do P4 hands free! Think this was better than Spirit of Skwamish, it's got the spicy unique factor that SoS doesn't.

Very popular, we were first up starting at 7.15 and the belays were stacked when we came down. Start early!

Enjoyable crack climbing the whole way up, with a slab sport pitch up the top. Very popular, so we came at 7.15 and were first up. Probably more enjoyable if there's no-one in front as the day before there were two groups stacked at the first anchor waiting for a slow party above.

Linked P2/P3, P7/P8 although could have linked P5/P6 with the 60m rope, although there's a good photo spot at the P5 belay next to the waterfall. Annoyingly went off route on the slab P6 and got stuck.

Took double rack up to 2 and 1x#3, and had plenty of gear. P4 runout is trivial so don't need a #4.

First pitch only.

Start is nails, getting to the first bolt is the crux. Not sure if my shoes are more for edging but couldn't seem to get the friction needed to get up. Maybe plenty of traffic has polished up the route to make it extra hard?

Dogged up to the first bolt then the rest was enjoyable, spicy and tenuous slab to the anchors. Doesn't feel too runout as there's always a bolt when you need one. Impressive what you can stand on if you need to!

If you told be the first pitch was 5.11b, wouldn't be surprised.

5.8 crack kicked my arse no end! My feet still hurt.