Ascents in Nightmare Rock having Beta

Fantastic route, fat fingers make the crux a lot harder.

Ran outta gas at the first crux.

Tough locks near the top! But an absolutely stunning climb. Definitely a top 100!

Always a good time!

Fun, varied and engaging!

Fun, with some cruxy moves.

Amazing jams and smooth climbing. Definitely a top 100.

Hidden gem!

layback hehe

Sick climb definitely heady

Awkward and hard

Beautiful but painfully hard.

So happy to send this on the first redpoint attempt after one top rope burn a few days prior

Tape everything and get worked!

Lap for extra warmup

Sweet! Second go. Screwed up the crux sequence and took a whipper at the top after I didn't find a helpful foot left of the crack at the top. Things went almost perfect second time around.

Super hard, and would be a super sketchy lead. Tough bottom, pretty sustained, with a crux finish. Just as well the top rail is positive!

2 goes. Should have had it second go but bailed 30cm from top... Above pod, use features and good edge on RH side of crack to get feet high, then thrutch a little and repeat. 2nd #4 goes in deep at top of pod.

Jumped on this to say we actually climbed something. Really contrived, but still fun.

Pretty cruise until it’s not, then it’s thin AF - tips crack and minimal to no feet. Tips crack gets better higher up but still nails.

Lower section felt good, upper crux hand sequence botched, gotta remember to cross.

Pump factor is intense on this thing.

2nd go

Sent! First granite 5.12a/25 - confirming my annual goal to redpoint my age in the Ewbank scale. Grades mean nothing right? But they do. They are waypoints in a journey which describe the physical progression of individuals - waypoints without which the "redpoint" is meaningless. Without grades, the achievement of ascent is vague and ill-defined. So here's to grades. 25 points for 25years. This means in approximately 8 years I'll be able to free Vertigo right? Ha. Stoked

Try number eight and nine. One whipped both times. I feel like I have overcome some kind of psychological impediment keeping me from committing properly at the crux. Think this thing will go to the chains next session.

Went back for a re-point but pretty sure what eventuated was an un-point. Off widths can be like that.

Whipped again. Lol

I think this is actually my hardest offwidth redpoint yet. Apart from that one I FA'd with Johannes and Ben in Tassie... but I took rests on that burly beast. Reminds me - have to go back and free that thing and send Functor in Boroomba

Sixth attempt on this and no send still. At first I thought this wasn't .12a. Now I'm sure it is. Having trouble with my head-space today. This thing will go for sure though.

Fail on the redpoint burn. This thing will go for sure though. Imminently.

One hung.

Got the gear beta all dialed. Double up on the .3s at the crux. Hit the pinky-lock and place a .1. Bump feet to the good index-lock and place a .75. Run it out to the end. And don't forget your helmet in case you take an upside-down back-slapper!

Putting the rope up on SB.

If you find yourself unable to sport climb... Hip scum and chimney out the crimpy moves in the corner.

I led this today but I whipped and ripped a cam lol. Difficult stuff. I think I need another TR burn to get the gear all sorted

Andrew just walked up and sent this today. I flailed around on his top rope

Experimenting with calf locks and inversions off handstacks. There is much to learn about Leavittation

5.10 climbing to a V4-5 boulder problem of absolutely stellar and technical nature. Worked out the moves on top rope. This will be the most difficult route I've sent when it goes. And the first 5.12 in Squamish as well!

Warm up P1

Difficult offwidth but some awkward sections can be avoided by laybacking.

Ran a second lap to figure out the crux. Somewhat heady. What a line though!

It's all there but putting this together for an onsight was a bit of an ask. A large number of takes. Absolutely stellar Peter Croft route. On the hit list fo sho!