Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Unknown | |||||||||
5.10b | ★★ A Necessary Evil - with HyunHo, Anthony Cuskelly | 15m, 3 | Squamish | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | |||||
guidebook calls this "Fresh Start 5.7"
Definitely more like a 10b, very runout unless you use Stumps to protect the moves
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5.10d | ★ Outrage | Squamish | ★ Good | Sun 17th Jun 2007 | |||||
Ikes!
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5.10b | ★ Finger Rippin' Good | Squamish | ★ Good | Sun 27th May 2007 | |||||
A hold must have broke as the start is stout!
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5.11a | ★★ Evaporation | Squamish | ★ Good | Sun 14th May 2006 | |||||
Sustained and beautiful rock. Low angle face crystal picking yikes!
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5.12b | ★★ Girth | 10m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Aug 2009 | ||||
very hard but very fun. young mick, shot for shot, but couldnt link anything. got all moves individualy
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5.8 | Skyhook Logging | 28m | Squamish | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
Rubbish.
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5.11a | Black and Decker | 15m | Squamish | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | |||||
Power-stemming! Not unlike Trout Creek.
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5.11b | Some Face Moves | 30m | Squamish | Sat 28th Nov 2015 | |||||
A very quality line!
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5.11a | Black and Decker | 15m | Squamish | Fri 15th Apr 2016 | |||||
No send. Tricky mantle!
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5.11a | Sudden Impact | Squamish | Wed 27th Apr 2016 | ||||||
Quality Jim Sanford route. Hard for the grade.
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5.11a 5.11c | Toasted Tits | 20m | Squamish | Tue 21st Mar 2017 | |||||
This thing is fer sure harder than Fear Fear of Flying. Maybe harder than pink panther. More like 11c to me.
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5.11b 5.11c | Toasted Tits | 20m | Squamish | Sat 1st Apr 2017 | |||||
Working it.
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5.11a | Alien Sex Fiends - with bertin | Squamish | Sun 9th Apr 2017 | ||||||
So hard but a few really cool moves
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5.11b 5.11a | Alien Sex Fiends | Squamish | Fri 28th Apr 2017 | ||||||
Quite good. This will go next time. Heady to the first bolt off the belay.
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5.10b | ★★ French Toast | 15m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2017 | ||||
Trad
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5.10a | ★★★ When Mulhern Was Young | 15m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th May 2018 | ||||
super fun 10a...painfull foot jams at the start and super fun roof and offwitdh endind, leadable
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5.10b | ★★ The Gloaming | 50m | Squamish | Wed 15th Aug 2018 | |||||
,5.10a guidebook
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5.12b | ★★ Jacob's Ladder | 15m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Sep 2022 | ||||
Nice to have permadraws on it! Fell at the crux move, but pulled the lip and made it to the anchors clean.
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5.11a | ★★ Silly Putty | 25m | Squamish | ★ Good | Sat 29th Apr 2023 | ||||
surprisingly easier then it looks from the ground.
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5.11a | ★ Cold Metal — 2 attempts - with Seanne | 10m | Squamish | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | ||||
Second go.
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5.10a | ★ Right On Jennejohn - with Seanne | 10m | Squamish | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | ||||
Little bit exciting in the middle
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Trad | |||||||||
5.7 | Zed Ridge | 8 | Squamish | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||||
There's two places (diagonal crack) where you can add protection. No need to carry a full rack just for two placements. Hand size cracks. Optional too...
There is an anchor after the last bolt on the last slab, near a bush in the back. Just no rap anchors.
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5.11b | Hands Off, Harry! | 16m, 6 | Squamish | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
Tronsight. Nice climb!
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5.11a Hard | ★★ Fatty Bolger - with Seanne | 28m, 6 | Squamish | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | |||||
Clipped second bolt from arete, then lowered down and did direct start past black bolt on penji-toprope. Also pulled up some cams before the flake, as was planning to climb The Leading Edge, but didn't feel like doing the runout to the second bolt.
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5.11a Hard | ★★ Fatty Bolger | 28m, 6 | Squamish | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | |||||
Last climb of the evening, feet and core were pretty tired. Went direct past black bolt at start, got the moves after quite a bit of trying!
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5.11c ~5.11d | ★★ Bumper | 23m, 5 | Squamish | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | |||||
Hard, couldn't do the moves past the first bolt
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Jul 2004 | ||||
lives up to its name
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5.8 | ★★ Sphinx'ter Quits | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Apr 2004 | ||||
take a set of nuts
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5.10c 5.10c/d | ★ Lust | 22m, 4 | Squamish | ★ Good | Tue 6th Sep 2011 | ||||
5.10d,trad end
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Sep 2011 | ||||
5.10c
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | ||||
Hung at the crux on the cracks! I have to go do this again.
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5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 31st Jul 2014 | ||||
Granite slab bing needs some work
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5.8 | ★★ Sphinx'ter Quits | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Aug 2014 | ||||
Nice big holds
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | Squamish | Mon 10th Aug 2015 | |||||
Not exactly Supervalue unless you really value rope drag.
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5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | Thu 13th Aug 2015 | |||||
Quite a good route but feels like it's missing a bolt for aspiring leaders!
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||||
Great friction stemming. A nice climb for sure.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Sep 2015 | ||||
A few wet spots added some excitement. Tech stemming
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue - with Deano | 35m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Aug 2016 | ||||
Great fun, and has a few marginal moves going around the arete. Longer than I expected!
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5.10c 5.10c/d | ★ Lust | 22m, 4 | Squamish | Average | Sun 11th Jun 2017 | ||||
Some good bits, but seemed a bit easy, must have been the crimps
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5.8 | ★★ Sphinx'ter Quits | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★ Good | Wed 14th Jun 2017 | ||||
Rpt
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5.8 | ★★ Sphinx'ter Quits - with P Wypish | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Mar 2018 | ||||
Apart from the bolts a few nut placements. Thought would be another runout bolted climb in the bluffs but pretty reasonable, looking to red point on next visit to this area
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | Squamish | Wed 27th Jun 2018 | |||||
Overrated and full of rope drag. It's weird that this is an exam route for guides.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven - with Crazy john | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Jul 2018 | ||||
10c in the guide. Thought the crux was over and then found the real crux...Placed a wire at the start of the corner, then another after the 2nd bolt.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Jul 2018 | ||||
Classic, tech slab open stem corner.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Aug 2018 | ||||
Quality granite stemming! Some gear required to protect the start (and possibly the very end) of this route. Most of the difficult climbing is bolt-protected, however.
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5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Aug 2018 | ||||
Very very fun. Good stemming, and "sportingly bolted". I wouldn't call this a sport route.
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue - with Keith Lemay | 35m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2019 | ||||
If you're diligent about extending your draws down below the drag is manageable. Great fun.
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5.10d 5.10c/d | ★ Lust | 22m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Jun 2017 | ||||
Just read that it had 4 bolts and started climbing without my rack. Probably should have noticed that it needed some gear as well :p
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5.10b | ★★ Noonday Ridge | 25m, 4 | Squamish | Mon 9th Nov 2020 | |||||
Underrated. Thought this was a lot of fun. A lot of variety
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5.10d 5.10c/d | ★ Lust | 22m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Jun 2017 | ||||
Just read that it had 4 bolts and started climbing without my rack. Probably should have noticed that it needed some gear as well :p
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5.8 | ★★ Sphinx'ter Quits | 25m, 4 | Squamish | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | |||||
Weird start, the rest nice and original
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5.10d | ★ Lust | 22m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Aug 2022 | ||||
Did the 10a variation. The bottom is a very nice face climbing section.
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Sep 2021 | ||||
true to its name - some laybacking, some crack climbing, some balancy slab, some crimping.
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5.10d | ★★ Popeye and the Raven - with Evan Poulton | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | ||||
Excellent technical slab with stemming dihedral!
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5.10c/d | ★ Waning Gibbous - with Seanne | 4 | Squamish | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | ||||
First climb back at Squamish, getting used to the thin feet again!
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5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven - with Meredith Apple | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
Perhaps the weirdest pitch I've ever climbed. Slab-ramp-stemming. Very tenuous.
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5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven - with Maxwell Cullen | 25m, 4 | Squamish | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||||
Got super stumped at the crux on lead and spun around trying to figure out the moves. On second tried again with a spanned out right foot that dropped me into an insecure side plank palm press, if anything blew would have broke my nose on the rock. friction slab goodness
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5.10b | ★ Pink Flamingo | 15m, 3 | Squamish | Average | Sun 4th Apr 2004 | ||||
bring some hand and fist sized cams for horizontal crack
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5.10c | ★ Hans Groper - with Jerome | 20m, 3 | Squamish | ★ Good | Fri 20th Mar 2015 | ||||
Drill holes were fun, but the anchor is in a terrible position for top roping making the slab/arete horrendous. Guess I should stop being slack and actually lead something!
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5.10b | French Leave - with Lachlan Pearson | 18m, 3 | Squamish | Mon 22nd Jun 2015 | |||||
More friction slab
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5.10a | ★ The Edge | 20m, 3 | Squamish | ★ Good | Wed 26th Aug 2015 | ||||
Fun slab/thin face.
On TR, so instead of finishing in the corner, finished on the slab to the right -- even thinner than the main part. On slip on this extra (10b) extension. |
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5.8 | ★★ Climb ON - with Jason | 15m, 3 | Squamish | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | ||||
Supposed to be mixed, but no where to put gear.
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5.10d | ★ Sweet Songster | 20m, 3 | Squamish | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
A good first .10d slab climb for the trainee slab master.
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5.8 | ★★ Climb ON | 15m, 3 | Squamish | Average | Thu 23rd Jun 2016 | ||||
Can be def done as sport
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5.10b | ★ Pink Flamingo | 15m, 3 | Squamish | Sat 6th May 2017 | |||||
Scary. Insecure slab moves with really high first bolt
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5.10b | French Leave - with Jason | 18m, 3 | Squamish | Sat 20th May 2017 | |||||
clean. cool route
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5.8 | ★★ Climb ON | 15m, 3 | Squamish | Mon 3rd Jul 2017 | |||||
beginning is a little interesting. Can be sport lead. Not even sure where you could put any gear.
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5.8 | ★ Every Man and His Dog | 12m, 3 | Squamish | Mon 3rd Jul 2017 | |||||
Easy and fun
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5.10b | ★ Pink Flamingo - with P Wypish | 15m, 3 | Squamish | ★ Good | Fri 27th Oct 2017 | ||||
Long runout to horizontal crack. Can use nut wire in small hole about 3-4 meters up.
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5.10b | ★ Pink Flamingo | 15m, 3 | Squamish | Thu 13th Aug 2020 | |||||
Actually really hard slab climb. Sharp rock!
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5.8 | ★ Every Man and His Dog - with Sophia Krstin | 12m, 3 | Squamish | Fri 2nd Jul 2021 | |||||
Did this as the second of a practice two pitch
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5.8 | ★ Every Man and His Dog - with Sophia Krstin | 12m, 3 | Squamish | Fri 2nd Jul 2021 | |||||
Did this as the second of a practice two pitch
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5.10b | French Leave | 18m, 3 | Squamish | Tue 14th Jun 2022 | |||||
Started on the right and the moved up to the first bolt. Struggled with the move from first bolt to second bolt.
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5.12c | ★★★ The Beef — 4 attempts | 15m, 3 | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | ||||
Fantastic and puzzling route. The crux might stop you dead in your tracks. The quality of the route is true Smoke Bluffs granite wrestling, burly yet delicate on crystals. Offset .3-.2 cams really place well down low.
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5.10b | ★ Pink Flamingo | 15m, 3 | Squamish | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
Harder than it looks. Makes you think.
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5.10c | ★ Geritol | 20m, 2 | Squamish | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
scary past the bolts
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5.11a | ★★ Fear of Flying - with Jerome | 25m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Mar 2015 | ||||
I never knew I could climb with just the stumps of my fingernails!
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5.10c | ★★ House Music - with Jerome | 25m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Mar 2015 | ||||
Dang, so much commitment required to start on that slab!
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5.10c | ★ Geritol - with jerome | 20m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Mar 2015 | ||||
Great mix of hand crack and slabby finish, much more fun than House Music.
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5.10c | ★ Geritol | 20m, 2 | Squamish | Mon 11th May 2015 | |||||
Granite climbing at its best. Nice crack movement to slab.
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5.11a | ★★ Fear of Flying | 25m, 2 | Squamish | Thu 25th Jun 2015 | |||||
Dogged the s$&@ out of this. My toes pumped out! Got all the moves but I don't know that I have what it takes to lead this. Super thin
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5.10c | ★ Geritol | 20m, 2 | Squamish | ★ Good | Wed 15th Jul 2015 | ||||
Darren left the rope up, so it seemed logical to do. Tough slabby face to finish.
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5.10d | ★ Smallpox | 20m, 2 | Squamish | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
Really nice climbing
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5.11a | Meet the Clampetts | 12m, 2 | Squamish | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
The fact that this route was soaking wet made it a total grovel show!
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5.10a | ★ Health Hazard | 25m, 2 | Squamish | Fri 5th May 2017 | |||||
Not bad.
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5.11a | ★★ Fear of Flying | 25m, 2 | Squamish | Sat 6th May 2017 | |||||
Felt good. Lots of good crystals to edge off of. Good hands free holds. Probably will try this on lead
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Easy Skankin' (10c) | 23m, 2 | Squamish | Fri 19th May 2017 | |||||
Quite tricky slabbing off the deck (failed on the onsight actually) then mellow.
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5.10c | ★ Geritol | 20m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Jun 2017 | ||||
Felt easier than flying circus, nice crimps and edges up a dyke, yay, face climbing!
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5.8 | ★ Hug | 10m, 2 | Squamish | Sun 11th Mar 2018 | |||||
up
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5.8 | ★ Pole | 2 | Squamish | Sun 11th Mar 2018 | |||||
down and up
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5.8 | ★ Hug | 10m, 2 | Squamish | ★ Good | Tue 13th Mar 2018 | ||||
Bolt and gear
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5.10a | ★ Health Hazard - with P Wypish | 25m, 2 | Squamish | Average | Sat 17th Mar 2018 | ||||
Didnt feel difficult at all, but I was doing it as 2nd so didnt have to worry about it being VERY runout
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5.10b | ★ Monkey Song | 22m, 2 | Squamish | ★ Good | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | ||||
A bit tricky to protect before last bolt, lots of pine needles on easy slab start
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5.10d | ★ Smallpox | 20m, 2 | Squamish | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | |||||
hard moves between first and second bolt, very well protected
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5.10c | ★ Side Street - with Soren | 45m, 2 | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 5th Aug 2019 | ||||
Good fun. Only seemed vaguely familiar until I looked down from the chains. Didn't bother with top pitch.
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5.10a | ★ Health Hazard | 25m, 2 | Squamish | Mon 10th Aug 2020 | |||||
Spicy
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5.10d | ★★ Cabin Boys - with Kelsie Wamer | 30m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | ||||
fell while crossing the slab crux. fantastic route!
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5.10a | ★ Irie Ites Man | 22m, 2 | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 19th Apr 2021 | ||||
A little bushy down low, but still a great climb!
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5.10c | ★★ Easy Skankin' (10c) - with D-Lit | 23m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||
Tricky moves on thin holds at the start. Leads into nice crack climbing above.
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5.10a | ★ Rumours | 25m, 2 | Squamish | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | |||||
Not too bad
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