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Ascents in Smoke Bluffs having Beta

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,208 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
Unknown
5.10b A Necessary Evil - with HyunHo, Anthony Cuskelly Unknown 15m, 3 Squamish
Lewis
Fri 29th Sep 2023
guidebook calls this "Fresh Start 5.7" Definitely more like a 10b, very runout unless you use Stumps to protect the moves

 
5.10d Outrage Unknown Squamish Good
Grand Chung
Sun 17th Jun 2007
Ikes!

 
5.10b Finger Rippin' Good Unknown Squamish Good
Grand Chung
Sun 27th May 2007
A hold must have broke as the start is stout!

 
5.11a Evaporation Unknown Squamish Good
Brandon Workman
Sun 14th May 2006
Sustained and beautiful rock. Low angle face crystal picking yikes!

 
5.12b Girth Unknown 10m Squamish Very Good
ambor collins
Mon 31st Aug 2009
very hard but very fun. young mick, shot for shot, but couldnt link anything. got all moves individualy

 
5.8 Skyhook Logging Unknown 28m Squamish
CElliott
Sat 16th May 2015
Rubbish.

 
5.11a Black and Decker Unknown 15m Squamish
CElliott
Sat 24th Oct 2015
Power-stemming! Not unlike Trout Creek.

 
5.11b Some Face Moves Unknown 30m Squamish
CElliott
Sat 28th Nov 2015
A very quality line!

 
5.11a Black and Decker Unknown 15m Squamish
CElliott
Fri 15th Apr 2016
No send. Tricky mantle!

 
5.11a Sudden Impact Unknown Squamish
CElliott
Wed 27th Apr 2016
Quality Jim Sanford route. Hard for the grade.

 
5.11a 5.11c Toasted Tits Unknown 20m Squamish
CElliott
Tue 21st Mar 2017
This thing is fer sure harder than Fear Fear of Flying. Maybe harder than pink panther. More like 11c to me.

 
5.11b 5.11c Toasted Tits Unknown 20m Squamish
CElliott
Sat 1st Apr 2017
Working it.

 
5.11a Alien Sex Fiends - with bertin Unknown Squamish
Daphne
Sun 9th Apr 2017
So hard but a few really cool moves

 
5.11b 5.11a Alien Sex Fiends Unknown Squamish
CElliott
Fri 28th Apr 2017
Quite good. This will go next time. Heady to the first bolt off the belay.

 
5.10b French Toast Unknown 15m Squamish Very Good
JM Blanchet
Fri 22nd Sep 2017
Trad

 
5.10a When Mulhern Was Young Unknown 15m Squamish Classic
Collado
Fri 4th May 2018
super fun 10a...painfull foot jams at the start and super fun roof and offwitdh endind, leadable

 
5.10b The Gloaming Unknown 50m Squamish
davedave
Wed 15th Aug 2018
,5.10a guidebook

 
5.12b Jacob's Ladder Unknown 15m Squamish Very Good
Crazy_Pete
Wed 28th Sep 2022
Nice to have permadraws on it! Fell at the crux move, but pulled the lip and made it to the anchors clean.

 
5.11a Silly Putty Unknown 25m Squamish Good
Crazy_Pete
Sat 29th Apr 2023
surprisingly easier then it looks from the ground.

 
5.11a Cold Metal — 2 attempts - with Seanne Unknown 10m Squamish Good
Michael Houghton
Wed 7th Jun 2023
Second go.

 
5.10a Right On Jennejohn - with Seanne Unknown 10m Squamish Good
Michael Houghton
Wed 7th Jun 2023
Little bit exciting in the middle

 
Trad
5.7 Zed Ridge Mixed trad 8 Squamish
Francois
Sun 16th May 2021
There's two places (diagonal crack) where you can add protection. No need to carry a full rack just for two placements. Hand size cracks. Optional too... There is an anchor after the last bolt on the last slab, near a bush in the back. Just no rap anchors.

 
5.11b Hands Off, Harry! Mixed trad 16m, 6 Squamish
CElliott
Mon 20th Jun 2016
Tronsight. Nice climb!

 
5.11a Hard Fatty Bolger - with Seanne Mixed trad 28m, 6 Squamish
Michael Houghton
Wed 7th Jun 2023
Clipped second bolt from arete, then lowered down and did direct start past black bolt on penji-toprope. Also pulled up some cams before the flake, as was planning to climb The Leading Edge, but didn't feel like doing the runout to the second bolt.

 
5.11a Hard Fatty Bolger Mixed trad 28m, 6 Squamish
Michael Houghton
Thu 8th Jun 2023
Last climb of the evening, feet and core were pretty tired. Went direct past black bolt at start, got the moves after quite a bit of trying!

 
5.11c ~5.11d Bumper Mixed trad 23m, 5 Squamish
Michael Houghton
Thu 8th Jun 2023
Hard, couldn't do the moves past the first bolt

 
5.10c Supervalue Mixed trad 35m, 4 Squamish Classic
harry mardale
Thu 15th Jul 2004
lives up to its name

 
5.8 Sphinx'ter Quits Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Very Good
@puffthemountaingoat
Sun 4th Apr 2004
take a set of nuts

 
5.10c 5.10c/d Lust Mixed trad 22m, 4 Squamish Good
Nicky
Tue 6th Sep 2011
5.10d,trad end

 
5.10c Supervalue Mixed trad 35m, 4 Squamish Classic
Nicky
Tue 6th Sep 2011
5.10c

 
5.10c Supervalue Mixed trad 35m, 4 Squamish Mega Classic
Sam Ritchie
Sat 26th Jul 2014
Hung at the crux on the cracks! I have to go do this again.

 
5.10c Popeye and the Raven Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Good
Vanessa Wills
Thu 31st Jul 2014
Granite slab bing needs some work

 
5.8 Sphinx'ter Quits Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Good
Vanessa Wills
Sat 2nd Aug 2014
Nice big holds

 
5.10c Supervalue Mixed trad 35m, 4 Squamish
CElliott
Mon 10th Aug 2015
Not exactly Supervalue unless you really value rope drag.

 
5.10c Popeye and the Raven Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish
CElliott
Thu 13th Aug 2015
Quite a good route but feels like it's missing a bolt for aspiring leaders!

 
5.10d 5.10c Popeye and the Raven Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish
CElliott
Sat 29th Aug 2015
Great friction stemming. A nice climb for sure.

 
5.10d 5.10c Popeye and the Raven Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Classic
Gareth Llewellin
Fri 4th Sep 2015
A few wet spots added some excitement. Tech stemming

 
5.10c Supervalue - with Deano Mixed trad 35m, 4 Squamish Classic
topher
Fri 12th Aug 2016
Great fun, and has a few marginal moves going around the arete. Longer than I expected!

 
5.10c 5.10c/d Lust Mixed trad 22m, 4 Squamish Average
Vanessa Wills
Sun 11th Jun 2017
Some good bits, but seemed a bit easy, must have been the crimps

 
5.8 Sphinx'ter Quits Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Good
Vanessa Wills
Wed 14th Jun 2017
Rpt

 
5.8 Sphinx'ter Quits - with P Wypish Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Collado
Mon 12th Mar 2018
Apart from the bolts a few nut placements. Thought would be another runout bolted climb in the bluffs but pretty reasonable, looking to red point on next visit to this area

 
5.10c Supervalue Mixed trad 35m, 4 Squamish
CElliott
Wed 27th Jun 2018
Overrated and full of rope drag. It's weird that this is an exam route for guides.

 
5.10d 5.10c Popeye and the Raven - with Crazy john Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Classic
topher
Tue 3rd Jul 2018
10c in the guide. Thought the crux was over and then found the real crux...Placed a wire at the start of the corner, then another after the 2nd bolt.

 
5.10d 5.10c Popeye and the Raven Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Classic
Stephen Winnacott
Sun 29th Jul 2018
Classic, tech slab open stem corner.

 
5.10d 5.10c Popeye and the Raven Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Classic
Thelonius Pope
Mon 27th Aug 2018
Quality granite stemming! Some gear required to protect the start (and possibly the very end) of this route. Most of the difficult climbing is bolt-protected, however.

 
5.10c Popeye and the Raven Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Nick Baggaley
Fri 17th Aug 2018
Very very fun. Good stemming, and "sportingly bolted". I wouldn't call this a sport route.

 
5.10c Supervalue - with Keith Lemay Mixed trad 35m, 4 Squamish Classic
Jed
Mon 8th Apr 2019
If you're diligent about extending your draws down below the drag is manageable. Great fun.

 
5.10d 5.10c/d Lust Mixed trad 22m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Seanathon
Fri 30th Jun 2017
Just read that it had 4 bolts and started climbing without my rack. Probably should have noticed that it needed some gear as well :p

 
5.10b Noonday Ridge Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish
DaneW
Mon 9th Nov 2020
Underrated. Thought this was a lot of fun. A lot of variety

 
5.10d 5.10c/d Lust Mixed trad 22m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Seanathon
Fri 30th Jun 2017
Just read that it had 4 bolts and started climbing without my rack. Probably should have noticed that it needed some gear as well :p

 
5.8 Sphinx'ter Quits Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish
Eleo
Sun 7th Aug 2022
Weird start, the rest nice and original

 
5.10d Lust Mixed trad 22m, 4 Squamish Very Good
Bryan Senger
Wed 17th Aug 2022
Did the 10a variation. The bottom is a very nice face climbing section.

 
5.10c Supervalue Mixed trad 35m, 4 Squamish Classic
Dan Slov
Wed 1st Sep 2021
true to its name - some laybacking, some crack climbing, some balancy slab, some crimping.

 
5.10d Popeye and the Raven - with Evan Poulton Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Very Good
The Gnome
Thu 30th Jun 2022
Excellent technical slab with stemming dihedral!

 
5.10c/d Waning Gibbous - with Seanne Mixed trad 4 Squamish Good
Michael Houghton
Wed 7th Jun 2023
First climb back at Squamish, getting used to the thin feet again!

 
5.10c Popeye and the Raven - with Meredith Apple Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish Classic
Maxwell Cullen
Fri 15th Sep 2023
Perhaps the weirdest pitch I've ever climbed. Slab-ramp-stemming. Very tenuous.

 
5.10c Popeye and the Raven - with Maxwell Cullen Mixed trad 25m, 4 Squamish
Meredith Apple
Fri 15th Sep 2023
Got super stumped at the crux on lead and spun around trying to figure out the moves. On second tried again with a spanned out right foot that dropped me into an insecure side plank palm press, if anything blew would have broke my nose on the rock. friction slab goodness

 
5.10b Pink Flamingo Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish Average
@puffthemountaingoat
Sun 4th Apr 2004
bring some hand and fist sized cams for horizontal crack

 
5.10c Hans Groper - with Jerome Mixed trad 20m, 3 Squamish Good
Kelly
Fri 20th Mar 2015
Drill holes were fun, but the anchor is in a terrible position for top roping making the slab/arete horrendous. Guess I should stop being slack and actually lead something!

 
5.10b French Leave - with Lachlan Pearson Mixed trad 18m, 3 Squamish
Tarryn De Sylva
Mon 22nd Jun 2015
More friction slab

 
5.10a The Edge Mixed trad 20m, 3 Squamish Good
David Gibbs
Wed 26th Aug 2015
Fun slab/thin face.

On TR, so instead of finishing in the corner, finished on the slab to the right -- even thinner than the main part. On slip on this extra (10b) extension.

 
5.8 Climb ON - with Jason Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish Good
Daphne
Sat 2nd Apr 2016
Supposed to be mixed, but no where to put gear.

 
5.10d Sweet Songster Mixed trad 20m, 3 Squamish
CElliott
Mon 20th Jun 2016
A good first .10d slab climb for the trainee slab master.

 
5.8 Climb ON Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish Average
Collado
Thu 23rd Jun 2016
Can be def done as sport

 
5.10b Pink Flamingo Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish
Daphne
Sat 6th May 2017
Scary. Insecure slab moves with really high first bolt

 
5.10b French Leave - with Jason Mixed trad 18m, 3 Squamish
Daphne
Sat 20th May 2017
clean. cool route

 
5.8 Climb ON Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish
Bryan Senger
Mon 3rd Jul 2017
beginning is a little interesting. Can be sport lead. Not even sure where you could put any gear.

 
5.8 Every Man and His Dog Mixed trad 12m, 3 Squamish
Bryan Senger
Mon 3rd Jul 2017
Easy and fun

 
5.10b Pink Flamingo - with P Wypish Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish Good
JM Blanchet
Fri 27th Oct 2017
Long runout to horizontal crack. Can use nut wire in small hole about 3-4 meters up.

 
5.10b Pink Flamingo Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish
Evan Slynk
Thu 13th Aug 2020
Actually really hard slab climb. Sharp rock!

 
5.8 Every Man and His Dog - with Sophia Krstin Mixed trad 12m, 3 Squamish
Dojmaestro
Fri 2nd Jul 2021
Did this as the second of a practice two pitch

 
5.8 Every Man and His Dog - with Sophia Krstin Mixed trad 12m, 3 Squamish
Dojmaestro
Fri 2nd Jul 2021
Did this as the second of a practice two pitch

 
5.10b French Leave Mixed trad 18m, 3 Squamish
Shashi
Tue 14th Jun 2022
Started on the right and the moved up to the first bolt. Struggled with the move from first bolt to second bolt.

 
5.12c The Beef — 4 attempts Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish Mega Classic
Evan Beatty
Fri 18th Aug 2023
Fantastic and puzzling route. The crux might stop you dead in your tracks. The quality of the route is true Smoke Bluffs granite wrestling, burly yet delicate on crystals. Offset .3-.2 cams really place well down low.

 
5.10b Pink Flamingo Mixed trad 15m, 3 Squamish
Shashi
Sun 10th Sep 2023
Harder than it looks. Makes you think.

 
5.10c Geritol Mixed trad 20m, 2 Squamish Good
Anna Vit
Tue 13th Apr 2010
scary past the bolts

 
5.11a Fear of Flying - with Jerome Mixed trad 25m, 2 Squamish Very Good
Kelly
Fri 20th Mar 2015
I never knew I could climb with just the stumps of my fingernails!

 
5.10c House Music - with Jerome Mixed trad 25m, 2 Squamish Very Good
Kelly
Fri 20th Mar 2015
Dang, so much commitment required to start on that slab!

 
5.10c Geritol - with jerome Mixed trad 20m, 2 Squamish Very Good
Kelly
Fri 20th Mar 2015
Great mix of hand crack and slabby finish, much more fun than House Music.

 
5.10c Geritol Mixed trad 20m, 2 Squamish
CElliott
Mon 11th May 2015
Granite climbing at its best. Nice crack movement to slab.

 
5.11a Fear of Flying Mixed trad 25m, 2 Squamish
Tarryn De Sylva
Thu 25th Jun 2015
Dogged the s$&@ out of this. My toes pumped out! Got all the moves but I don't know that I have what it takes to lead this. Super thin

 
5.10c Geritol Mixed trad 20m, 2 Squamish Good
topher
Wed 15th Jul 2015
Darren left the rope up, so it seemed logical to do. Tough slabby face to finish.

 
5.10d Smallpox Mixed trad 20m, 2 Squamish
CElliott
Mon 20th Jun 2016
Really nice climbing

 
5.11a Meet the Clampetts Mixed trad 12m, 2 Squamish
CElliott
Mon 20th Jun 2016
The fact that this route was soaking wet made it a total grovel show!

 
5.10a Health Hazard Mixed trad 25m, 2 Squamish
CElliott
Fri 5th May 2017
Not bad.

 
5.11a Fear of Flying Mixed trad 25m, 2 Squamish
Daphne
Sat 6th May 2017
Felt good. Lots of good crystals to edge off of. Good hands free holds. Probably will try this on lead

 
5.10d 5.10c Easy Skankin' (10c) Mixed trad 23m, 2 Squamish
CElliott
Fri 19th May 2017
Quite tricky slabbing off the deck (failed on the onsight actually) then mellow.

 
5.10c Geritol Mixed trad 20m, 2 Squamish Very Good
Vanessa Wills
Thu 15th Jun 2017
Felt easier than flying circus, nice crimps and edges up a dyke, yay, face climbing!

 
5.8 Hug Mixed trad 10m, 2 Squamish
Daphne
Sun 11th Mar 2018
up

 
5.8 Pole Mixed trad 2 Squamish
Daphne
Sun 11th Mar 2018
down and up

 
5.8 Hug Mixed trad 10m, 2 Squamish Good
Collado
Tue 13th Mar 2018
Bolt and gear

 
5.10a Health Hazard - with P Wypish Mixed trad 25m, 2 Squamish Average
Collado
Sat 17th Mar 2018
Didnt feel difficult at all, but I was doing it as 2nd so didnt have to worry about it being VERY runout

 
5.10b Monkey Song Mixed trad 22m, 2 Squamish Good
Collado
Tue 24th Apr 2018
A bit tricky to protect before last bolt, lots of pine needles on easy slab start

 
5.10d Smallpox Mixed trad 20m, 2 Squamish
Collado
Tue 24th Apr 2018
hard moves between first and second bolt, very well protected

 
5.10c Side Street - with Soren Mixed trad 45m, 2 Squamish Good
topher
Mon 5th Aug 2019
Good fun. Only seemed vaguely familiar until I looked down from the chains. Didn't bother with top pitch.

 
5.10a Health Hazard Mixed trad 25m, 2 Squamish
DaneW
Mon 10th Aug 2020
Spicy

 
5.10d Cabin Boys - with Kelsie Wamer Mixed trad 30m, 2 Squamish Very Good
Crazy_Pete
Sun 18th Apr 2021
fell while crossing the slab crux. fantastic route!

 
5.10a Irie Ites Man Mixed trad 22m, 2 Squamish Good
Crazy_Pete
Mon 19th Apr 2021
A little bushy down low, but still a great climb!

 
5.10c Easy Skankin' (10c) - with D-Lit Mixed trad 23m, 2 Squamish Very Good
Andy Gnarr
Sun 1st Aug 2021
Tricky moves on thin holds at the start. Leads into nice crack climbing above.

 
5.10a Rumours Mixed trad 25m, 2 Squamish
Michael Houghton
Thu 8th Jun 2023
Not too bad

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,208 ascents.

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