Ascents in The Chief

Apron Strings into Grandwall, into bellygood ledge. Took 3 falls on Perry's lieback and a rest on the last hard pitch.

Linked 'Banana Peel' into 'Bommstick Crack' into 'Squamish Buttress' into 'The Butt Light'.

6h up, 1h30 down.

Approach shoes all the way.

Linked 1+2, 3+4, then did a short scramble pitch to base of butt light (5.9). From there, I ran a long pitch to a tree just below the 5.8 chimney.

backed off due to a party ahead making very slow progress on the P2 roof.

Accidently linked the p2 5.8 of boardline and strayed right at the ledge into blazing saddles p2, getting another 5.10a pitch ticked off. Was not a good idea, luckly it was easy enough to rap off a tree back the ledge, Jeff linked the final few meters of the 5.8 above the pitch with the next two pitches - making for an ultrapitch of arete, bolted and bottomless squeeze chimney peaking into desperate slab with hectic rope drag.

Climbed the tree start to get to angel crack to free an old cam. Rappelled back down after.

Good climbing overall, the layback on pitch 4 was the standout pitch

Decent climb wandering between other climbs. Route finding involved. The best pitches are the last three. Crux was the last few moves of P4.

It's also on that climb that I leaned SR means standard rack and not single rack. And Squamish SR is a few more cams than a single rack... Made it interesting.

Gets a mega classic from me for the variety and unique moves - not very often you can chimney and layback at the same time. Great climbing high above the hordes on the apron and the highway noise, and you get a chance to see people crushing on the Prow Wall.

Took a #4 but couldn't find a placement on P6 (I looked), still salty about dragging it up all the way to the top. Gear is good on the climb and the two bolts on the crux pitch makes it feel much easier than other 5.9s. Thought the whole climb was soft for the grade.

Crazy busy day, planned to do 'Long Time No See' but ended up on Calculus Direct to avoid a large crowd but still hit traffic at the top belay of the second pitch of calculus. Then headed up 'South Arete' (again to avoid the crowds). Then made our way up the last 2 pitches of 'Long Time No See' before heading back down.

Mostly Cruisy line with some technical and varied climbing. Lost friction and slipped a few meters off the ground to lose the onsight.

Used calculus crack to access the climbs at the top of the buttress. As this is one of the easier routes up I wouldn't recommend it as we got stuck behind a few slow parties - it's very busy. Definitely detracts from the climb waiting on the belays. Otherwise good crack climbing, P3 and P4 were the best.

Also messed up the 4th pitch and climbed above the belay point, although it did mean we were able to climb the final 3 pitches in 2.

Retreated due to downpour

Ah very hard in 30+ degree weather

Mega classic! Amazing pitch, my legs were burning so bad, spent nearly an hour on the onsight! Big day, we finished up University wall and the roman chimneys!!!