Routes as sport in The Chief

One of the harder, but more interesting slab climbs on the apron. Mostly bolted and likey empty.

Guidebook description; “a proud tick by those capable and delivers a good adrenaline rush to all but the most seasoned of slab climbers-legendary friction route”. First 2 pitches of dièdre (trad) before trending right onto open slab for 5 pitches of friction climbing with spaced bolts. Take #1 Camelot for the overlap in .10B pitch. Join final pitch of dièdre (small gear in corner). Tree belay.

Trotter and Sharma's testpiece and probably the most iconic 9A in the Americas. A V8 slab gains a very steep system of slopper rails to V10/11 exit. Ultra classic!

Assuming this is "Land and Freedom" in McLane (2005)

155m

1. P1 (10a): 8 bolts over 30m. Belay out to right.

2. P2 (8): 9 bolts and optional gear. Possible to do a 10c variant out to right along thin dyke at second bolt. 45m, belay below a roof to the right.

3. P3 (10a): 8 bolts over 45m. Roof crux at start, then zig-zag up to belay under tree on LH side of dyke.

4. P4 (10b): 6 bolts over 25m. Continue up dyke to cruxy move just below top.

Climb the tree and head along the ledge. A tricky sequence gains the aesthetic fin. Follow to a very powerful and Crimpy boulder problem at the top.

Optional trad gear at overlap. (0.3-0.5BD cams, medium wires)

Starts about 25m right of Borderline, climbing up a broken face capped by a small roof at 6m.

1. P1: 10c, 35m

2. P2: 11a, 20m

Starts from end of P1 of Universal Key. Walk left along narrowing ramp, eventually stepping down onto easy slab and continuing across to anchors on foot ledges. Two pitches than can be linked (55m)reach the base of the last pitch of Upper Black Dyke.

Can be done as a highball boulder, very hard V7 (located on the Animal Magnetism boulder)

Start as for young blood, then follow bolts rightward to a brutal lip encounter and Crimpy wall above.

Nails slab.

Can be split into two pitches if needed. Follows thin dyke rightwards from partway across P1 of Traverse of the Gods.

An extension of 'The Ron Zalko Workout'.