Routes in The Valley of Shaddai

A contender for one of the most aesthetic cracks in Canada.

Steep, open corner with a small roof up high. Two small-medium cams for initial crack.

Just left of Famous Last Moves. Turns big roof on the right, then follows arete to anchors. Two cams for initial crack.

Starts on jugs on arete, moving up and left and finishing up the easier dyke. Stay on left side of bolts.

The middle of three obvious cracks among large broken blocks.

Can do a direct start at 11a, or traverse in from the right for 10d

Just before descending into the gully, turn south along the ridge for about 20m, going to the right side of the first small buttress. Climb the clean flake.

The rightmost crack among large broken blocks. The crux is squeezing yourself into the crack early on. A 4" and 5", perhaps two, is needed.

Turn south off the main trail at the start of the descent, and go for 10m before starting down the first small gully towards the top of Alex's Room. The bolted steep dyke in the gully.

Scramble up broken rock to a horizontal crack. Hand traverse right into a nice hand crack.

There are two variations for the first half: either going between the two quadrilateral roofs, or staying to the right of both.

Start up the crack 2m left of Keep the Faith, following the crack until stepping left to the bolt and arete just before the top.

Climb past a stump on a ledge into a short right facing corner, and finish with a widening crack. Might want a 4 near the end.

Similar start as Super Bad. Stay more right after the first ledge, heading toward a roof with good underclings. Traverse slightly right at the roof, then continue up.

The crack 3m to the right of Entrance Exam.

Third pitch after Kicking Mule and Hot Pants.

Trend right around a roof, clamber on top of a large block, then follow a crack to the top. Crack gets wide and you will probably want a 4.

Trad: short, bouldery, technical flake to very thin dihedral.

Leftmost splitter hand to fist crack starting on the ledge above It's a New Day and Move On Up. Near the top, as the crack becomes more broken, traverse right and follow a right leaning ramp to the anchor. Protects adequately with a SR to 3, but you could place a 4 in a cruxy wider section around mid height.

The crack just left of the corner.

Up Keep the Faith for 5m, then traverse left around arete past a bolt to reach a juggy dyke

A right leaning chimney. For the first half, face climb the slab to the right, protecting on the wall to the left. At the midpoint, squirm deep into the chimney and work your way up. As the cleft narrows, move back out of the chasm. There are two bolts climber's left at the edge of the chimney, clip one if you want, but it's better to finish half a meter higher and climber's right of the chimney to an anchor with rings.

Continue up from the top of Kicking Mule.

Alternate 2nd pitch above Kicking Mule

Head 50m left just before going through the Quail's Gate, you will come to a pair of mossy cracks. This is the one on the left with a bolt to start

Much harder continuation of Get Into It.

Shares anchor with It's a New Day.

Off width crack starting from the ledge above It's a New Day and Move On Up. Large cams useful.