Routes in Central America

Very fun route involving a well protected, intense crux, has tree shade, making it a crowd favorite

Via divertida que involucra un crux intenso y bien protegido, tiene sombra por lo que es la favorita del publico.

Located 15m to the left of "Santiago Diablitos". Very unique rock features on the overhung section to start. Widely spaced reunion located on very inclined slab... As such, it's not recommended to climb on TR, and best to clean on rappel.

A fresh take on crimps up a beautiful arete, what's not to like?

Nueva perspectiva con agarres pequeños en una arista hermosa, que mas queres?

One of the first routes you see as you come up the trail from Sector 1. The top of the route splits and you can choose the arete (left) or the crack (right) for a few meters. It converges again at the anchor.

Classic route involving delicate crimping and two mantles, no shade so it´s best done early.

Via clasica con agarres pequeños y dos mantles, no hay sombra por lo que es mejor hacerla temprano.

Named after a poem from Otto Rene Castillo, a poet brutally murdered during the civil war. The climb is great by the way, only face holds for full credit.

Llamada despues del poema de Otto Rene Castillo, un poeta desaparecido de la guerra civil. La via es buenisima por cierto, solo agarres en la cara.

A good warmup route because of nice holds and laybacking. One of the first climbs in Amatitlan.

Comparte cadenas con Corrosion, una buena via de calentamiento por los agarres grandes y la grieta. Una de las primeras vias jamas escaladas en Amatitlan.

Five stars, the standard back in the day, definitely the jumping platform for harder climbing in Amatitlan. Don't use the cracks on either side near top for full credit.

Cinco estrellas, el estándar para las primeras generaciones, definitivamente la plataforma de salto para la escalada mas dura de Amatitlan. Para obtener todo el credito, las grietas a ambos lados cerca del top, estan fuera de limites.

The left line around the corner of the left side of the wall.

The route just right of Welcome to Mike’s Place.

Intricate movement on small holds lead to a movie finish.

Movimientos intrincados en agarres pequeños para un final de pelicula.

Facing the wall with your back to the river and the camping hut, this is the very first route on the wall from right to left. A fun and juggy route with an extended left traverse about half way up where the climb goes directly overtop the anchors for 'Como Tu Sabe'. Due to the traverse feature of this climb, it is recommended to take extendable draws in order to reduce rope drag. End on the same anchors as 'Para Sayang'.

It seems that now there is an anchor more in line making the route a bit shorter.

Resistance on good holds. Highly recommended.

A consistent crimp fiesta on a plumb line. The route involves a specific sequence that every climber solves differently. Skip the big ledge out right for full experience.

Una linea vertical y consistente en agarres pequeños. La via tiene una secuencia especifica que cada escalador resuelve de manera diferente. No tomar la repisa a la derecha para la experiencia completa.

Start left of the block and follow the tufa line up to an anchor just right of the big stalactite. Great steep climbing on mostly good holds and a cool move over to the final tufa, one of the best lines in Viñales.

Easy route but with tricky sequence of moves at the top

Mellow climbing through the arete then it's tree climbing to the chains.

Movimientos gentiles en una arista, luego es escalada en el arbol hasta alcanzar las cadenas.

Starts left of the tunnel entrance and right of the next alcove, left of the tree. Big tufas and stalactites lead the way to the top ledge. Shares anchor with Chao Pescao. Great warm-up.

(While it may not sound like a lot of bolts, they are where you need them and the falls are generally pretty clean. So a reasonable climb even if this is the opposite of a warm-up.)

Climb the obvious guppies on the steep wall on the right hand side interior of cave, just before the big tufa. The overhanging section is followed by nice face climbing.

Resistance on mostly good holds. Highly recommended.

Nice beginner route. Has an anchor at the 7th bolt, before the chossy section.

This route starts to the the right of the boulder at the base of the wall, and has its first anchor about 3 meters off the ground. A seemingly conservative climb, Para Sayang’s true colours come out when handholds run out and a sequential crux stares you in the face. Once clipped to the anchors don’t forget to turn around and take in one of the best views of the river and the surrounding farm covered valley.

To the left of ‘Lo Tocar a Mi’ you will find ‘Verde’ and ‘No Hablar Español’. These two routes are essentially the same, except that ‘Verde’ moves to the right for one bolt while the route ‘No Hablar Espanol’ moves to the left for one bolt. The split occurs after the second bolt from the ground, and then the two routes reunite on the fourth bolt before ascending to the chain anchor which lies to the left of the large crack. The traverse route ‘Vaca Caca’ also ends on the same chain anchor. Much like ‘La Impotencia’ and ‘Pura Vida Mae’, the duel route of ‘Verde’ and ‘No Hablar Espanol’ are good routes for top-rope and for beginners.

This route goes up the white pinchy tufas at the end of the cave to a first anchor on a big ledge. There are 2 more bolts that link this route to the anchor of the one further right. Shares last bolt and anchor with On Belay Hombre. Pinchy tufas down low lead to pockets.

Almost directly in the middle of the wall La Luz hosts a good mixture of jugs, crimps and sloped feet. La Luz starts off pumpy as slopers are the hold of choice, but then eases into some monstrous jugs around the middle of the climb. The wise would exploit this rest as best as possible. Don’t become cocky by the perception of easier climbing halfway and shoot for the top, most blow off in the final stretch for the anchors as handholds become smaller and jugs are replaced by pinches. If you get the leg shakes as you hurriedly apply the anchors, you are not the first, and doubtfully the last.

Envisioned and bolted by Carlos Chong, a long, sustained, technical climb with nice moves.

Concebida por Carlos Chong, una ruta larga, tecnica y con buenos movimientos.

To the right of the middle of the wall is Caca Vaca. You will find that the bolts on this line are spaced a little further apart than on other climbs the same height, and as a result, less draws are needed. The climbing is crimpy with well placed resting jugs until you reach the small roof. Here you will find a heady move that may require the commitment your partner has been looking for. Pull through the roof and you are only two bolts and some friendly crimps away from the chain anchor. Well, almost. The final anchors can be a bit of a challenge to clip.

New school, chicken way to reach the top of la nada.

Una alternativa mas sencilla para alcanzar el top de la nada.

Shares frist 2 bolts with Tarentola but then climbs staright up on the face.

On the left facing wall around the corner.

Shares the same bolts as "LNFS" but uses the arete for the entire duration of the route. There used to be a lower reunion, the grade up to this point was 5.9. Now the reunion is higher and requires a technical crux move, increasing the grade.

One of the most classic routes in Amatitlan because it is tall and mellow.

Una de las vias mas clasicas de Amatitlan porque es alta y tranquila.

Vaca Caca is a traverse route that starts to the left of ‘Para Sayang’ and travels left utilizing all the jugs until the hanging chain anchors shared with ‘Viagra’. As a lead route this climb can be confusing as it overlays other routes on the wall. Remember to keep the left after the fourth bolt and make way for the locked carabiner on the chains. This is a good route for learning to lead, warming up, or beginners to get a taste of outdoor rock climbing.

WARNING: 70m rope needed.

A straight forward 5.8 climb that is good for both beginners and intermediate warm-up alike. This climb is often set up as a top-rope for beginner climbers as the forward leaning angle of the wall provides a great learning experience. As a lead climb this route should not be taken lightly despite the low grade. This is because the first three bolts all have ground fall potential.

A favorite among the crowd that is getting more confident with leads, can be climbed by so many different ways.

Una via favorita para escaladores que estan aprendiendo a puntear, se puede escalar de muchas diferentes maneras.

Extension to Cadenas, cool moves and 3D climbing for managing the obvious bulge.

Extension de Cadenas, buenos movimientos en volumenes para escalar la saliente. It can also be done starting at "el Moco Direct"

Follow the crack to the right and then climb straight up. Shares first 2 bolts with Chan Chan de Ilusiones.

Climb the bolt line up the middle of the face, initially trending leftwards. Gets sharp in the final 1/3.

The first route established at this crag. Climb the first big column to a ledge, then follow the easy ramp left for a bit, before topping out straight up. 2-3 long draws nice for below the anchor.

Bolts with shackles (one worn and supplemented with a biner).

Directly to the left of ‘Chino Clandestino’ and about half a meter longer, Acido y Medio provides a sustained and sometimes steep climb with good holds. Somewhat ladderish to begin, this climb rarely receives as much attention as other more technical routes. The difficulty on this route is consistent in a way that not any single move presents itself as substantially more challenging than the next, but rather that the entire route is a race before your forearms quit. A message of precaution, apparently bolts on this climb were not drilled into the rock as deep as they should have been. Therefore, if safety is a concern and you still want to give Acido y Medio a run, it is recommended that you ascent ‘Chino Clandestino’ and then traverse over to the Acido y Medio anchors in order to set up a top rope.

Nice climbing on an arete with a dirty jungle climbing finish. Anchors need an update

Escalda tecnica en una arista con un final de escalada en la jungla, el top necesita una actualizacion para hacer mas comodo el descuelgue.

Sustained moves on small holds all to the top after the 8th bolt; the top is the hardest part. If your rope is 60m or less be careful at lowering as it is impossible to get to the belay spot.

tricky climb, can be climbed with good technique and little strength.

Via que tiene su maña, se puede escalar con buena tecnica y poca fuerza.

Nice near-vertical face. Grading doesn't allow use of the crack on the right.

Bouldery moves out of the obvious roof to very mellow climbing.

Movimientos de bloque saliendo del techo obvio llevan a una escalada suave hasta las cadenas.

If you are looking for a mental challenge more than a physical one, El Pichon may be the climb for you. The route starts on the same line as ‘Verde’ however instead of heading for the chains after the fourth bolt climb towards the large crack on the right. Run out the crack for about five meters and you will find yourself at a small dark roof with the next bolt in reachable distance. Climb over the roof and briefly to the right before traversing back left to the anchors.

An absolutely awesome route with great exposure and rock structures you have to see to believe!

Access the start by hiking up to the cave. It is best to prepare in the cave and leave your stuff there. Scramble up the ledge on polished rock on the left of the cave and look for the tufa column on your right.

As of May-2019 only the first 2 pitches have been rebolted - as with all routes at the Costanera watch the bolts if they are not re-bolted glue-ins!!

• Pitch 1: 9 bolts; Start right of the tufa column and up into the cave to exit it to the left. Follow great holds to an anchor right of the "Mucho Pumpito Ledge" - a very comfortable belay for pitch 2. The anchor consists of 3 unlinked glue-ins.

• Pitch 2: 11 bolts plus a couple of slings; follow the super exposed overhanging arete out right on increadible holds for 30m of pure fun. A no-hands rest at the tufa in the middle might reduce the pump. A sports anchor is located on top of the ledge.

• Pitch 3: A short pitch out right (the original last pitch). Many people do not climb this pitch, if you do, lower down to the anchor and rap from there to the ground. An alternative to the left is available as well (see "Pssst!" pitch 3).

Aptly named El Bejuco is easily identifiable due to the long strangler fig root that stretches from the top of the wall, all the way to the bottom of the ravine.

Easily distinguishable by the parallel vertical running finger cracks, you will find this climb at the far right of the East Wall. The climb is a great warm-up for some of the others in the ravine. If you are familiar with jamming, and the cracks are clean, 5.9 may seem more appropriate. However the cracks are rarely clean enough to provide a feeling of security and if climbing the route without solid jamming ability, more than not, the grade of 5.10a seems appropriate. Whether you are jamming or not, climb directly up the vertical cracks to the horizontal crack and high step over the ledge for a rest. Use the cracks and good feet to get up to the slight overhang and the real challenge. As feet and hands thin out and you are forced to decide for more crack or big stretchy moves, your head will become the crux. Make some commitment and pull through the overhang to the anchors. This route is also a great route to be done on trad.

To the left of Dos Cortos you will find Pupis. A great climb for beginners who are looking for a mental challenge as the crux move requires commitment to pull off. This climb starts off by following the large crack up to a high first bolt. Continue towards the crux, where you must get a good stance to go wide with your hands and pull up onto the face. Once you have managed to go around the overhand and are on the face, use the two cracks to shimmy up to the anchors that lay slightly to the upper left of the final bolt. This route can also be done on trad.

Start right of the broken tufa on the grey slab and go up straight. Anchor is on top left of tree. Shares first bolt with Guajiras. Climbs easy on mostly sharp rock to a crux high up.

Very similar to ‘La Luz’, Breathe is one climb to the left and one letter grade harder. The two climbs have a number of similarities. For starters, both end on the same anchors, have sloping, pumpy starts and have decent resting spots at about half way. Also, much like ‘La Luz’, the crux of Breathe only makes itself fully apparent when you are already in the middle of it. The crux is a stretched move, so this climb may be significantly harder for shorter individuals. Once the final piece of protection has been utilized make a short and easy traverse to the right for the anchors.

This climb shares its start with ‘Contigo Termina en Khadijah’. Ensure that you stay towards the right when the bolts carry into two separate lines. This occurs at the fourth bolt where you should make your way towards the right, then continue upward towards the anchors just before the large light coloured patch wall. Expect pumperific, sloping, solid 5.11 climbing until a good rest that allows you to prepare both mentally and physically for the crux to the hallelujah jug at the top.

This route hosts a great mix of crimps, pockets, jugs and stemming. Located two routes to the left of La Buseta, start on some technical and crimpy moves that traverse slightly to the right before making headway to a horizontal crack with a rest. The mildly overhanging section of the climb provides the physical crux of the route, with a key two-finger pocket that allows for quick movement onto a more vertical face with a ledge. Most likely to be dirty, but a great resting location nonetheless, the ledge also provides a little mental confidence before you continue upward through the final section of the route where handholds become scarce and stemming and friction based moves are more likely to get you to the super shuts.

It has anchors at the midle. So it can be done in two pitches, but one 60 m rope is more than enough for the whole route. The first half is probably a 5.7 and the second half is more like a 5.10a. If doen only using the face crimps is a nicer challenge (probably a 5.10b). If from the anchors you go the left it gets to another top called Equinoxio.

bouldery and reachy . FUN!

Nice slightly overhung resistance route. Some of the nicest rock and best climbing in CQ. Careful of a few large, loose blocks in the middle of the route. Rebolted 03/22

Starting left a bit higher up on the block.

It might have more than 12 bolts before the anchors

Good mellow route with a nice sequence of holds.

Bonita ruta moderada con una secuencia de agarres interesantes.

The middle one of the 3 routes on this wall.

Beautiful route just left of "Sudor de mujer". Technical face climbing for the first half, crack climb to the anchor. Be careful, the crack section still contains a lot of loose rock, including some large boulders.

Second pitch of “Árbol de la vida”

Start just to the left of Las Nenas. First bolt very high, but can easily be clipped by walking around. Route grade allows the use of the arete after the 1st bolt.

The large features and low overhanging cover of Mr. Ed often means that the climb can be dirty. However the route still acts as a good warm up, both physically and mentally. Start climbing difficult, almost awkward moves traversing up and to the left. Rest on a large ledge before looking up and realizing that your next bolt is further away than anticipated. Grow a pair and move with confidence through the easy moves to the anchors.

Further to the left on the nice wall, leading up into an overhanging corner on big holds.

Just around the corner to the right from Biscochuelo de Fresa, Dos Cortos, and Pupis, is another wonderful crack climb: Hexentrica. Follow the large cracks straight up to the anchors. This route can also be done on trad. Because this area is exposed to a lot of sunlight, overgrowth occurs fairly quickly.

Start on the boulder and climb the face to reach the big flake. Layback up on poor feet to reach the tufa and follow the slab to a final overhanging section. The last 2 bolts climb very sharp rock.

Long and super fun. Watch out for the bat living in the "tombstone" on top

The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge.

Start on the boulder and climb up just right of the big tufa. Pass left of the roof and follow rhe crack to the face and anchor.

P1- 5 - 10m, 5 bolts – Sometimes called La Cuevita because of the small cave. Climb to the small cave and ledge. The cave is called Cueva Lechuza and has good views of the valley. P2- 6c+ – 20m, 6 bolts – trend left P3- 5 – 15m, 5 bolts – Best if linked with pitch 2. Watch out for wasps behind… Overall, best done if the leader is lowered back to the second anchor and belays the second up the whole route, before being lowered back to the second anchor. Abseil from second anchor to ground.