Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Orebić | |||||||
C - Hrid | |||||||
5c | Hrid - with HowC | 8m | |||||
6a in the climbing book, 5c on the wallsign. I guess about 20m.
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Biokovo | |||||||
Drašnice Istok | |||||||
4b |
Sjecas li se Dolly Bell P1
1
4b
| 480m | |||||
We accidentally started on the wrong route. We intended to climb the 5a as warmup. By the time I realized the mistake, I had already climbed about 30 meters. The bolt spacing is around 5-10 meters, and the first pitch is at least 50 meters long. Our rope was only 60 meters, so I fixed the rope at the anchor and rappelled down on a single strand to retrieve the quickdraws. After that, I climbed the route again on top rope solo with a Micro Traxion and then rappelled to the right side of the route. The 60m rope is barely long enough. Be careful not to make the same mistake 😅
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kukovi Kuk Tisa | |||||||
4a | ★★ Josipa Debeljaka | 200m | Average | ||||
1 und 3 SL TRAD!
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Fri 31st May 2024 - Biokovo | |||||||
Brela Pelješac | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ L'aurora - with Michaela H | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite easy compared too other 6a we had...
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Veliki Ćuk | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Water song
1
5c
2
5c
3
4b
4
5c
5
6a+
6
5c
| 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First three pitches have more than enough bolts. Bring at least 11 quickdraws. The climbing is great. We traversed to the left after the third pitch to be able to take the path down.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kukovi ispod Vlake North face | |||||||
6a+ ~6a+ |
★★ Kikos bohrer
1
5a
start below the tree.
2
6a+
lead by
Ilya L.
Very nice pitch. the begining is a bit tricky (go up in chimny and traverse right). try to avoid going left or right to the big cracks/chimneys, stay on the face or otherwise it will be hard to return to the face. long and sustained climb.
3
5c
strange open book moves. well bolted. | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
well bolted hard parts. nice technical moves and sustained. I would give it 6a+.
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Ovčji kuk | |||||||
3+ | ★★ Pored žute mrlje | 80m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Friendly route. many cracks/ fins for gear placement. a lot of bushes and vegetation on the route. decend by small and easy downclimb route at the top behind the bolts (east side), than easy walk around.
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Veliki Vitrenik B1 | |||||||
3 | ★★ Oliver Dragojevic | 150m, 3 | |||||
There is one bolt in the first pitch a bit further to the left on the steepest part. We used it, but it caused a lot of unnecessary rope drag. I think it is better to skip it.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Veliki Ćuk | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Water song
1
5c
2
5c
3
4b
Long run outs
4
5c
Crux well bolted, other parts got run outs. Very short pitch
5
6a+
Good bolted
6
5c
Long runout , should take trad gear for extra protection although easy. Not very clear what is the line direction. | 160m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice route, suitable for beginners , need to be a bit cool headed. Use trad gear for easy pitch for extra protection.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Hram | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Mrakan — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So cool moves! Definitely worth coming back to in the future.
|
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Zighi & Urli | |||||||
6a | ★★ Nemam ništa, socijalni problem! - with Andy | 33m | |||||
Kletterei gut lösbar, aber lange HK Abstände, so dass ich froh war die Route im Nachstieg zu genießen.
|
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Hidrogliser | |||||||
5c ~6a+ | Esseker | 30m | Crap | ||||
Just not worth the effort. Climbed too many times.
|
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Karenin | |||||||
4c ~5b | ★ Nasti put | 12m | Crap | ||||
Slippery
|
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kuk od Skradelin J | |||||||
6a |
★★ Armadillon
1
4a
2
5c
3
6a
4
5
Sharp edges beware. Good friction | 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route with spicy last pitch.
At the top there is on the left side a rappel station,or go around to find a possible hiking trail down.
|
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5c |
★★ Andi & Max
1
5c
Around bolt 3, route splits into two routs, take the left line.
2
5c
| 70m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great short multipitch
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Lokrum | |||||||
5 | ★ A$AP Anna — 3 attempts | ||||||
I believe this route was in the saltwater lake on the right of the small cave where two bolts are placed to indicate the routes. This one would be the left one of the two. I topped out at the ledge over the cave.
|
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5+ | ★ It’s time to go gurl — 3 attempts | ||||||
I believe this route was in the saltwater lake on the right of the small cave where two bolts are placed to indicate the routes. This one would be the right one of the two. I topped out at the ledge over the cave.
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Visoke Pole | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Sex je precijenjen — 2 attempts | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell in the last hard move during the onsight, because I couldn't see the jug 2 cm over the bad crimp i was holding... Sex is better.
|
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7c | ★★ Rafting Pinta — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Made it through the crux again and it was in the bag, but slipped on a plant as if I was standing on ice! 3rd Go
|
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Fri 17th May 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Visoke Pole | |||||||
7c | ★★ Rafting Pinta | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Onsighted the crux boulder, but fell in the in the top climbing left when I should have gone right.
|
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Fri 17th May 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Babina Bara | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Odstupi đavle - with Sofya | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard slab section across 2 to 3 bolts
|
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6a+ | ★★ Moca i Trimer - with Sofya | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky slab section
|
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Colibri | |||||||
6c | ★★ Flash back - with Sofya | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Missed the jug below the anchor to the left. Tried clipping the anchor from the right. Doable but harder. Fell with anchor in-front of my nose 😅. Great route!
|
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Parkiralište | |||||||
5c ~5c+ | ★★ Banana split - with Marián Hodoň | 15m | Crap | ||||
Very aweful slipery shit.
|
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Zighi & Urli | |||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★ Mascherino - with Marián Hodoň | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice, but hard over the start overhang!
|
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6a ~6a+ | ★★ Onofrio - with Marián Hodoň | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard!
|
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5b | ★★ Capitan Corragiosi - with Marián Hodoň | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Very nice route l.
|
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6a ~5c | ★★ Nemam ništa, socijalni problem! - with Marián Hodoň | 33m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Very nice route! Next time on first;)
|
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5b | ★★ Gripa - with Marián Hodoň | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Very nice easy route (and whole sector anyway)
|
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Tue 7th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Auhe | |||||||
5b ~5c | ★ Auhe - with Marián Hodoň | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
Very hard 5b (overhang)!
|
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Karenin | |||||||
5a | ★ Edi | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Not so good one!
|
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Zava | |||||||
5a | ★ Čuja ti si bog i batina! | 15m | Average | ||||
Nice one in this sector!
|
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Veleshit | |||||||
5a | ★★ Miki Maus | 10m | Crap | ||||
Slipery and aweful! Never more!
|
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Karenin | |||||||
6b | ★★ No Dilly Dally - with Honza Flos | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First half easy, second half harder but nice😊
|
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Veleshit | |||||||
6a | ★★ II viaggio - with Honza Flos | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Consistent from start to end
|
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kukovi Baltazar | |||||||
5a | ★★★ Drzi se desno - with Marián Hodoň | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Huge traverse! Strange but nice!
|
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5a | ★★ Baltazar - with Honza Flos | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Still missing
|
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Ilinac | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Secret of Cetina - with Janusz Domka | 300m | ★ Good | ||||
I lead 5c, 6a, 5a, 5c. Not the most beautiful route, plenty of plants in holds and covering bolts. Only 2-3 plaquettes on 5a pitches, sometimes 50m.
|
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Hvar | |||||||
Lučišća Vilinja špilja | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Rozi | ||||||
Many loose rocks
|
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Thu 2nd May 2024 - Hvar | |||||||
Vela Stiniva D – East side | |||||||
5c | No name 11 | 25m | |||||
Climbed several routes, but thecrag does not completely match with the current situation. So I had to guess the routes I climbed, although the grades match the current situation.
|
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5c | No name 10 | 25m | |||||
Climbed several routes, but thecrag does not completely match with the current situation. So I had to guess the routes I climbed, although the grades match the current situation.
|
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6a+ | No name 3 | 14m | |||||
Climbed several routes, but thecrag does not completely match with the current situation. So I had to guess the routes I climbed, although the grades match the current situation.
|
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5c | No name 2 | 12m | |||||
Climbed several routes, but thecrag does not completely match with the current situation. So I had to guess the routes I climbed, although the grades match the current situation.
|
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6c | No name 1 | 15m | |||||
Climbed several routes, but thecrag does not completely match with the current situation. So I had to guess the routes I climbed, although the grades match the current situation.
|
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Ljuska | |||||||
6b | ★★ Aanvallluhhhh | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The 6b variation is without the jug to the left on the slab
|
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Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Visoke Pole | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Droga - with Janusz Domka | 25m | |||||
I had power only for 2 attempts
|
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6c+ | Kasačko - with Janusz Domka | 17m | |||||
I took 1 rest
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6b | ★★ Za Stanislava - with Janusz Domka | 18m | |||||
Don't confuse and go to high or to low on crossroad with other route. Clean TR in 3rd attempt
|
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6c+ | ★★ Papa je s vama - with Janusz Domka | 18m | |||||
I took 2 attempts and 2 rests
|
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Ljuska | |||||||
5c ~5b | ★★ Jastreb | 17m | |||||
easier than the route to the right
|
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5b ~5b+ | ★ Kobac | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
felt harder than Jastreb
|
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Zava | |||||||
5c+ | ★ Čuja ti si bog! | 15m | Crap | ||||
Not a good warmup route
|
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Debeli kuk | |||||||
6b ~6b |
★★ Diagonalka
- with
Player Two, Matu
2
6b
lead by
Matu
4
4b
lead by
Matu
5
5c
lead by
Matu
6
3
lead by
Matu
| 200m | Crap | ||||
Don't climb this route. Abseiling is not completly installed via this route.
|
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Vranjača | |||||||
A - Left side | |||||||
7a | ★ Geisha secret - with Petr Kadlec | 28m | ★ Good | ||||
For me there were some reachy moves the first half of the route and than powerful moves through sidepulls and a little boulder with crimps before the anchor. Definitely felt harder than a 7a.
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Ilinac | |||||||
6c+ ~6c+ | ★★ 101 Dalmatians - with Oszkár Nádasdi | 250m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
We added 6 more pitches to the route, so now it is 9 pitches and max. difficulty is ~6c+. We recommend to walk down from the top. Feedbacks regarding the difficulty are appreciated.🙂
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Visoke Pole | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Kastracija ili masturbacija | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
If you don't like your balls, this route is for you!
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Babina Bara | |||||||
6b | ★★ Mama Mira - with Šárka Uhlířová | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice and technical 6b with a good name.
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Jupi | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Condor — 4 attempts | 10m | |||||
fun route
|
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Figa | |||||||
4b+ | ★★ Figa | 20m, 9 | |||||
Fun route with two cool crux section that require unique movement (to me at least).
|
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Veliki Ćuk | |||||||
4b+ | ★★★ Sjeverno rebro | 170m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Used about 5 nuts and 3 rock slings to supplement the bolts. Abby followed each pitch and did great! A little bit of "French Liberation" (haha) on P5, but that was it. P5 is a beautiful pitch and worth the scramble up the first 3 pitches! took us 2h 45min from base to summit.
|
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kuk od Skradelin J | |||||||
6b+ |
★ Faulenzer
- with
Šárka Uhlířová
1
6a+
2
6b+
3
6b
This pitch is way harder than 6b in my point of view.
4
6a
| 100m | ★ Good | ||||
Bolting is pretty bold.
|
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6b+ | ★ Faulenzer - with Petr Kadlec | 100m | ★ Good | ||||
The fist pitch has three bolts. I found the third pitch way harder than the second (crazy slab with no feet and only few small holes).
|
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Čikola | |||||||
Čelinka | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Scardona | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The very Best route in this sector!
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Rupe | |||||||
7b ~7b+ | ★★ Žuja | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very cool boulder in the roof with a shouldery move, technical vertical wall and quite hard upper part. Look for the hold far out right to make standing up into the underclings easier.
|
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7a ~7a+ | ★★ Kineski sindrom | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great, diverse route on jugs, side pulls, crimps und huge water structures! Just amazing 🤩
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Parkiralište | |||||||
7a+ ~7b | E.T. — 2 attempts | 20m | Average | ||||
Beautiful route, except for the crux on tiny crimps, therefore very inhomogeneous.
|
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6c | ★★ Cellulite free | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great moves on even greater rock. Steep part is the hardest obviously.
|
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6b Hard | ★★ Petronilla | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bouldery balance start and beautiful sharp rock
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Tulove Grede | |||||||
Najvisi Vrh - N face | |||||||
5c Hard | ★ ? | 16m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
a very interesting ofwidth. I f limbed through the chimney than definately 5C+, easier beta to the left
|
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6b | ★★ Drito gori | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
a very interesting offwidth
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Ostrovica | |||||||
A | |||||||
6a | ★ Jahači u oluji | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
Just a powerfull start with a high left heel. Then very easy and enjoyable
|
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6b Easy | ★ Lesani | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
It is more of a one moove wonder. The start is a quick power moove and then quite easy
|
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Mali Vaganac | |||||||
Ferata | |||||||
5c Hard | ★★★ Via Mizane - with Petr Kadlec | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Gymnastic moves in chimney-like razor sharp water canals with quite spaced bolting.
|
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kukovi Zubatac | |||||||
4a | ★★ Zubatac - with Dana | 60m, 3 | |||||
i fell because i am retarded
|
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kukovi Kuk Tisa | |||||||
4a | ★★ Josipa Debeljaka - with Dana | 200m | |||||
1 hour 40 minutes
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Anića kuk Anića kuk - Trapez - Northwest | |||||||
6a ~5c | ★★ Mosoraski | 350m | |||||
not that polished as mentioned in some comments compare to Klanci
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Teta Albina | |||||||
6a+ | ★ As (t)years go by - with Foki Karesz | 20m | Average | ||||
Iszonyat szúrós peremek, szétcseszte a kezem
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Veliki Vitrenik B1 | |||||||
3 |
★★ Oliver Dragojevic
- with
Foki Karesz
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 150m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My partner got sick after the first pitch so we rappeled down but the first pitch was mega classic
|
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Anića kuk Anića kuk - Trapez - Northwest | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Kača
- with
Matěj Mach
| 350m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some places were wet few days after the last rain. It made both 6a pitches and 9. pitch harder. I would say some trad gear is necessary, a hand crack sized cam would be great. I do not have experience with local classification, but it felt harder.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Kača - with frantis krantis | 350m | |||||
Definitely not ,,sport,, route, some slings and cams are really usefull. 4th pitch is harder than 5b for sure. 6a+ pitch can be wet even few days after rain, it makes this pitch even more hard.
|
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Anića kuk Anića kuk - Stup | |||||||
5b | ★★ Šaleški - with Dana | 120m | |||||
leadoval som 1 a 3
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Tulove Grede | |||||||
Južna stijena | |||||||
6a |
★★★ Winnetou
1
6a
40m
Quite a hard start for the whole route
2
6a
20m
3
5a
40m
4
5c+
25m
5
5c+
25m
6
5c+
40m
7
5b
40m
8
5b
50m
9
5c+
50m
10
5c
40m
11
6a
50m
| 420m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing multipitch, it is good to start early as ot os very long. Pitch n. 6(5c+) has a turn to the right over the arrete which is easily missed!
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Čikola | |||||||
Osoje B | |||||||
6a | ★★ Divlja voda | 70m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite tough middle pitch. A nice way to finish the day and exit the crag
|
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6c+/7a Hard | ★★★ Prva ljubav | 45m, 25 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing route if done in a single push all 45m are amazing. Starts with a hard technical slab and than tranfers into a nice crack all the way to the top
|
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6a+ | ★★ Samiljevaca | 38m, 23 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing route on nice crimps with a good rest in the middle
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kuk od Skradelin J | |||||||
6a ~6a+ |
★★ Armadillon
- with
frantis krantis
| 120m | |||||
The hardest part is first 10 meters in second pitch. In some guides are the second pitch described as 5b, but it is definitely harder.
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kukovi ispod Vlake North face | |||||||
4c | ★★ Nosorog - with Dana | 150m | |||||
Team Onsight. Leadoval som vsetko okrem prveho pitchu.
|
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Veliki Vitrenik B2 | |||||||
4a | ★★ Oprosti mi pape - with danka | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
team onsight
|
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Krokodil | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Ananass | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux on first 5m
|
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Čikola | |||||||
Bandusovac | |||||||
7a | ★★ No panic with panic | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice end of the trip
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Šimun, Jakov i Mate — 3 attempts | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A little candy for a child who didn’t send the fly for a while. Such an amazing route ! Felt in the last move on my second go, third go was ok. Still very hard compere to its neighbor .
|
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Čikola | |||||||
Bandusovac | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Fly for a while | 33m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a route ! For sure one of the best I have ever climbed. Unfortunately still very unsure send and I didn’t want to spend my last days here in one route. Next time ! 💪💪
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Tue 27th Feb 2024 - Čikola | |||||||
Osoje C | |||||||
7b | ★★ Opet zvone stara zvona — 2 attempts | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Top shit! Second go
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Čikola | |||||||
Osoje C | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Lavanderman | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool!
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7a+ | ★★★ Zvizdan | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route and OS fight. Nice to be back in Cikola.
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Vojan | |||||||
6c+ | Hrabro srce | 20m | |||||
Too bad we didnt check the guidebook twice. Thought this was 6a
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Omiš | |||||||
Babina Bara | |||||||
5c | ★★ Jaropas | 33m | |||||
Krásná cesta ve slabu, sem tam nejistá noha
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6a+ | ★★ Zorka | 16m | |||||
Další cesta odpytlena, před dvěma roky jsem neměl sílu cestu dolézt, letos forma rozhodně lepší
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6b+ | ★★ Iva piva | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Konečně po dvou letech odpytleno. Začáteční boulder přes převísek je super
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Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Lipotica | |||||||
5c | ★★ Celulit | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Coole Bewegungen um das kleine Dach. Super abgesichert an den kritischen Stellen.
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