Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
8a | |||||||||
8a | ★★★ Mrakan | 15m | Paklenica | Thu 27th Oct 2016 | |||||
PP - 3. go, with Klofi
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8a | ★★★ Mrakan | 15m | Paklenica | Sat 18th Jul 2009 | |||||
8a | ★★★ Mrakan — 2 attempts | 15m | Paklenica | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd May 2024 | ||||
So cool moves! Definitely worth coming back to in the future.
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7c+ | |||||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Funky shit | 15m | Paklenica | Mon 24th Oct 2016 | |||||
PP - 3. go, with Klofi
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7c+ | ★★★ Funky shit | 15m | Paklenica | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 30th Apr 2013 | ||||
7c+/8a - Mega!
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7c+ | ★★★ Funky shit | 15m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Apr 2022 | ||||
Hard crux at the start, then sustained roof climbing.
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7c+ | ★★★ Funky shit | 15m | Paklenica | Sun 12th Oct 2014 | |||||
PP
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7c/c+ | |||||||||
7c+ 7c/c+ | Perun | 15m | Paklenica | Tue 25th Oct 2016 | |||||
PP - 3. go, with Klofi
|
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7b+ | |||||||||
6b+ | ★★ Adrijanskoga mora sirena - with Arny | 20m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Oct 2019 | ||||
Only the first pitch.
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7b+ | ★★★ Svarog | 20m | Paklenica | Sat 29th Oct 2016 | |||||
PP - 1. go, with Klofi
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Kamen mudrosti | 11m | Paklenica | Sun 2nd May 2010 | |||||
7b+/c - Last try of the last day 5 pokuaja ukupno, trebalo je samo stisnit zube
|
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7b+ |
Enigma
- with
Marko Tatič
1
6a+
190m
2
7a
3
7b+
4
6b
5
6a
6
5c
| 190m | Paklenica | Sat 2nd Jun 2012 | |||||
Third pitch climbed the crux, and messed up the last move before anchor
|
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7b+ | Svantevid | 15m | Paklenica | Don't Bother | Fri 29th Apr 2022 | ||||
Very sharp rock/holds, not really recommended.
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Svarog | 20m | Paklenica | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||||
PP
|
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7b | |||||||||
7b | ★ Zambul - with Karine Deberdt | 10m, 4 | Paklenica | Average | Tue 20th Sep 2016 | ||||
If you can climb this first shot, you can have a beer on me.....this thing is painful and horrendous. Desperate
|
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7b | ★★ Vodan | 15m | Paklenica | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 30th Apr 2012 | ||||
Stari dugovi...
|
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6c+ 7b | ★ Zambul - with Miha | 10m, 4 | Paklenica | ★ Good | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | ||||
Maybe 7b if limited to main chunk of rock and going straight up. Two (marked) holds and stepping on the left make it much easier.
|
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7b | ★★ Vodan | 15m | Paklenica | Mon 13th Oct 2014 | |||||
PP
|
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7b | ★ Zumbul | 10m, 4 | Paklenica | Thu 23rd Sep 2021 | |||||
Crimpy
|
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7b ~7b+ | ★★ Žuja | 24m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Very cool boulder in the roof with a shouldery move, technical vertical wall and quite hard upper part. Look for the hold far out right to make standing up into the underclings easier.
|
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7a+ | |||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Jenjavi | 350m | Paklenica | Fri 28th Oct 2016 | |||||
With Klofi
|
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7a+ | ★★ Kitajski sindrom | 60m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Apr 2016 | ||||
#2go L1
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7a+ | ★ Rapina | 20m | Paklenica | Average | Fri 5th Jan 2024 | ||||
Offensichtlich wenig begangen. Super staubig, musste fast alle Griffe und Tritte putzen.
Sonst eigentlich ganz netter Start mit knackigerCrux aus dem Dach raus
|
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7a+ | ★★ Kitajski sindrom | 60m | Paklenica | Sat 18th Oct 2014 | |||||
PP L1
|
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7a+ ~7b | E.T. — 2 attempts | 20m | Paklenica | Average | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Beautiful route, except for the crux on tiny crimps, therefore very inhomogeneous.
|
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7a | |||||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Gerovit | 14m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Aug 2010 | ||||
speravo nella bora....ma invece solo caldo e niente vento
|
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7a | ★★ Kineski sindrom | 23m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Apr 2016 | ||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Gerovit | 14m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Mon 26th Jul 2021 | ||||
It took us more than 1 hour to find the sector 🤨 and I was worried that it started to get dark and rain a bit by the time I started the 3rd and last try. So happy that I topped that one. Expectations were higher...
|
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7a | ★★ Kineski sindrom - with Eva | 23m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Apr 2023 | ||||
Thanks tomattsch for leading
|
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7a Easy | ★★ Gerovit — 2 attempts | 14m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | ||||
Une voie assez courte très bloc.
|
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7a | ★★ Timon | 17m | Paklenica | Fri 17th Oct 2014 | |||||
PP
|
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7a ~7a+ | ★★ Kineski sindrom | 23m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Great, diverse route on jugs, side pulls, crimps und huge water structures! Just amazing 🤩
|
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6c+ | |||||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Klin - with Andy-Simon | 350m | Paklenica | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 24th Aug 2012 | ||||
Big exposure, big stamina fest. Do not be intimidated, old school climbing-cracks-corners. No real face climbing.A must do classic! We aided the crux on bolts.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Klin - with Miha | 350m | Paklenica | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Jun 2015 | ||||
Sustained 5b pitches, 6a+ is hard and tricky, crux is well bolted. Few pieces of trad gear and comfortable harness highly recommended. Fantastic, airy route overall.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Karenin - with Karine Deberdt | 20m | Paklenica | Mon 26th Sep 2016 | |||||
Absolutely fucking nails.....hardest 6c+ I have ever climbed.....slab nightmare...but at least I tried
|
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6c+ | ★★ Shogooth | 31m | Paklenica | Fri 3rd Aug 2018 | |||||
Came close. Crux where the threaded bolt is. Right hand side pull, high left foot, middle left finger in the mono, push up, move right foot up, reach up to jug with right hand, cross through left foot before going up to left hand jug. Taller people will have different beta.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Grafiti - with Hilary | 15m | Paklenica | Average | Mon 22nd Apr 2019 | ||||
Hard start with polished feet. Scored a booty draw at least!
|
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6c+ | Steza mojstrov | 15m | Paklenica | Fri 2nd May 2014 | |||||
Steeeeza!
|
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6c+ | ★★ Karenin | 20m | Paklenica | Wed 12th Apr 2017 | |||||
doable but very hard; tried it again, still too hard, couldn't do the roof-move
|
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6c+ | ★★ Shogooth | 31m | Paklenica | Average | Mon 16th Aug 2021 | ||||
Went into the Route as a Lovecraft fan 😊 Only one real crux move after the first third, which took me some tries to figure out. Didn’t bother to redpoint, unfortunately it’s not that interesting.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Karenin | 20m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Mon 16th Aug 2021 | ||||
Grade is appropriate in my opinion. I personally felt that a strong mental game was required rather than power or technique. Found it to be interesting and homogeneous until after the roof - after that, well, it’s a slab, pretty straightforward.
|
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Grafiti | 15m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Sep 2021 | ||||
Lower section is rather slippery due to many attempts.
|
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6b |
★★★ Klin
1
5a
150m
2
4a
3
6a+
4
6b
| 150m | Paklenica | Tue 19th Apr 2022 | |||||
Everything is sandbagged. Nothing fits the grade not even by any reasonable scale.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Big Wall Speed Climbing - with P.G | 220m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
👍
|
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6c+ |
★★★ Bears on toast
- with
P.G
1
6c+
2
6c+
3
4c
4
4c
| 120m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Last pitch we climb the 6a on the right
|
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6c+ Hard |
★★★ Klin
- with
P.G
1
4c
2
4c
3
6b
Technical traverse
4
6a
5
5c
You can connect pitch 4 and 5 is more fun and nice
6
6c+
We climb the direct line up to the roof, hard 6c+
7
6a
8
6a+
You can connect pitch 7 and 8 , beautiful
9
6a+
10
5a
11
5a
12
5b
| 350m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Wed 31st May 2023 | ||||
👍
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Klin | 350m | Paklenica | Average | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | ||||
Big distance between bolts ! Left the route on third pitch
|
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6c+ ~7a+ | ★★★ Utopija 85 - with meir tubul | 65m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | ||||
Delicate crux
|
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6c+ Easy | ★★ Karenin | 20m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Sep 2021 | ||||
The route is really nice, though there are couple of things to be careful about. The orientation and the protection. After the overhang, the route goes slightly in right, and you will only be able to see the anchor after you clip the bad bolt - and about the bad bolt itself - you will spot it after you climb the overhang, it is with a pink cord tied on it and is a big high.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Big Wall Speed Climbing | 220m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | ||||
Alles frei bis auf ein paar Versuche an der Crux im ersten Versuch durchgestiegen.
Sehr cooler Riss in der 5. SL
|
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6c+ | ★★ Ananass | 15m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Mar 2024 | ||||
Crux on first 5m
|
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6c/c+ | |||||||||
6c+ 6c/c+ | ★★ Tika plus | Paklenica | Mon 2nd May 2011 | ||||||
6c | |||||||||
6c | ★★ Morana | 13m | Paklenica | Wed 28th Apr 2010 | |||||
Soft
|
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6c | ★★ Vaga vaga dum | 16m | Paklenica | Fri 14th Apr 2017 | |||||
sweating blood, but I managed to do it
|
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6c | ★★ Cellulite free | 20m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Great moves on even greater rock. Steep part is the hardest obviously.
|
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6c | ★★ Flash back - with Sofya | 23m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th May 2024 | ||||
Missed the jug below the anchor to the left. Tried clipping the anchor from the right. Doable but harder. Fell with anchor in-front of my nose 😅. Great route!
|
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6b+ | |||||||||
6b+ | ★★ Achtung steinschlag! | 31m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Sep 2016 | ||||
That would take a little working. Lots of techy underclingy climbing and variety thrown in. Awesome route though..love to go back and work it all out!
|
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6b+ | ★★ Seppi | 8m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | ||||
cool climb. just a long reach where i have to be quite precise to get it. next time.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Achtung steinschlag! | 31m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Fri 12th Aug 2011 | ||||
Ahtung ahtung
|
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6b+ | ★★ WC | 25m | Paklenica | Sat 15th Apr 2017 | |||||
not too hard
|
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6b+ | ★★ Achtung steinschlag! | 31m | Paklenica | Thu 13th Apr 2017 | |||||
unhonest redpoint
|
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6b+ | ★★ WC | 25m | Paklenica | Mon 20th Sep 2021 | |||||
Die ersten 4 Haken definieren die Schwierigkeit
|
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6b+ | ★ Faulenzer - with Petr Kadlec | 100m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||
The fist pitch has three bolts. I found the third pitch way harder than the second (crazy slab with no feet and only few small holes).
|
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6b+ |
★ Faulenzer
- with
Šárka Uhlířová
1
6a+
2
6b+
3
6b
This pitch is way harder than 6b in my point of view.
4
6a
| 100m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||
Bolting is pretty bold.
|
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6b | |||||||||
6b | ★ Blody Maria - with Karine Deberdt | 12m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Sep 2016 | ||||
Hard route to on-sight and very thin and polished crux. Putting the draws on is a little intense.
|
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6b | ★★ No Dilly Dally - with Karine Deberdt | 28m | Paklenica | Sat 17th Sep 2016 | |||||
So stoked i got this.....very technical through the crux and sustained for the most. Good Blue Mountains run outs right where you would expect them......worth the effort.
|
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6b | ★★ Irenes smile - with Karine Deberdt | 15m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Sat 17th Sep 2016 | ||||
Bouldery as hell at the grade. Cruisy climbing and then a really tough boulder problem....it'll go next time.
|
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6b | ★★ Lu-Lu - with Andy Ferrisias | 20m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Sep 2016 | ||||
Second shot had my beta dialled and although still pumpy, sent the bloody thing.
|
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6b | ★★ Lu-Lu - with Andy Ferrisias | 20m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Sep 2016 | ||||
Went for it and blew the move above the crux.......hard pumpy climbing that is sustained right to the end.
|
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6b | ★★ Irenes smile - with Karine Deberdt | 15m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Mon 26th Sep 2016 | ||||
Got it putting the draws on again.
|
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6b | ★ Blody Maria | 12m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jun 2017 | ||||
kurze Tour, Schlüsselstelle an der 2. Exe. Danach recht leicht.
|
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6b | ★ Blody Maria | 12m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jun 2017 | ||||
kurze Tour, Schlüsselstelle an der 2. Exe. Danach recht leicht.
|
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6b | ★★ Radegast | 30m | Paklenica | Thu 2nd Aug 2018 | |||||
Sustained. Go left between second and third clip
|
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6b | ★ Blody Maria (Bloody Marija) - with Graham Giles | 12m | Paklenica | Mon 29th Apr 2019 | |||||
One move wonder
|
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6b | ★★★ Auskneifer | 15m | Paklenica | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 2nd May 2014 | ||||
Fantastic!
|
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6b | ★★ Krokodil | 22m | Paklenica | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||||
Nice!
|
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6b | ★★ No Dilly Dally - with inesazp | 28m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Aug 2020 | ||||
Watch out for ledge at start of overhang
|
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6b | ★★ Nostalgija (Nostalgia) | 350m | Paklenica | Thu 13th Apr 2017 | |||||
MULTIPITCH climbed the 6th pitch (6b). rather easy...
|
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6b | ★★ Radegast | 30m | Paklenica | Fri 14th Apr 2017 | |||||
after the 6c, very demanding
|
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6b | ★★ Črni Gad (Crni gad) | 20m | Paklenica | Thu 13th Apr 2017 | |||||
unhonest redpoint
|
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6b | ★★ Irenes smile | 15m | Paklenica | Fri 24th Sep 2021 | |||||
Leider nach mehreren Versuchen nicht durchgestiegen. Coole Route. Gz Juuls💪🏼
|
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6b | ★★ No Dilly Dally | 28m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | ||||
Lezla jsem do pulky pod headwall.
|
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6b | ★★★ Auskneifer | 15m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Wed 28th Sep 2022 | ||||
2nd Go
|
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6b | ★★ Radegast | 30m | Paklenica | Mon 31st Oct 2022 | |||||
Got tired at end of the day and fell 2 bolts before end.
|
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6b ~6c+ | ★★ Lu-Lu - with meir tubul | 20m | Paklenica | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | |||||
Hard crux
|
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6b | ★ Blody Maria - with Steph W. | 12m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2023 | ||||
…avec un mouvement trés bloc
|
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6b | ★★ Nostalgija | 350m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Sep 2021 | ||||
Multipitch 4a, 6a, 6a, 5b
Vertical |
|||||||||
6b | ★★ Krokodil | 22m | Paklenica | Thu 6th Oct 2022 | |||||
Overhang
|
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6b Hard | ★★ Petronilla | 20m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Bouldery balance start and beautiful sharp rock
|
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6b | ★★ Aanvallluhhhh | 15m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Apr 2024 | ||||
The 6b variation is without the jug to the left on the slab
|
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6b | ★★ No Dilly Dally - with Honza Flos | 28m | Paklenica | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th May 2024 | ||||
First half easy, second half harder but nice😊
|
|||||||||
6a+ | |||||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Velebitaški (Velbitaski) - with Andy-Simon | 350m | Paklenica | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd Aug 2012 | ||||
Old school ripper. Do it and bring your stamina!
|
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6a+ | ★★ Inox (Inox (Matio)) | 20m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Wed 27th Mar 2013 | ||||
Crux near third to last bolt: small footholds
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★ Veleshit | 17m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Wed 27th Mar 2013 | ||||
Strenuous enduring small holds
|
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6a+ | ★★ Mascherino | 25m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Wed 27th Mar 2013 | ||||
Crux at the bulge, and the rest is pure enjoyment.
BEWARE: A 60 m rope barely suffices when standing close to bulge.
|
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6a+ | ★ Bine Maja (Biene Maja) | 17m | Paklenica | Average | Wed 3rd Apr 2013 | ||||
Rather hard on polished footholds and long reach in final section.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Bella | 15m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Sep 2016 | ||||
Nice positive crimpy climbing.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Bella - with Karine Deberdt | 15m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Sep 2016 | ||||
Got back on and pushed through to the finish, still a very bouldery experience......even when you are feeling strong.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Bella - with Karine Deberdt | 15m | Paklenica | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Sep 2016 | ||||
Fell off at the top......hardest 6a+ I have ever climbed anywhere....hahaha........its really humbling be smacked down on a warm up.
|
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6a+ | ★ Bine Maja - with Karine Deberdt | 17m | Paklenica | ★ Good | Tue 20th Sep 2016 | ||||
Fell off........absolutely got spanked on it.........thin and bouldery as hell....
|