Ascents in Europe as various tick types as trad or sport by Anderl

2 really hard moves out of the tufa, easy upper half. Seems pretty soft to me for 7a+, being tall helps for sure.

Got it! Used a bit the dihedral half a metre to the right in the easier upper part for security reasons (last two bolts are very rusty), but purely on the wall goes quite easily, too. What should I say? For me 6c max, quite reachy however.

Hard fight, pumped like hell. Was cheating a bit as I was unable to unclip the last express and had to go directly to the chain, but the last metres are not the problem anyway.

Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?

An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.

Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!

Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void

Project for tomorrow if the weather holds!

Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.

Ok, it goes, but the middle section still requires some adjustment. Maybe another day...

Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day

Weather didn't hold, but overhanging enough to be dry Not that hard if you know the way. And not 6c+ for sure.

If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish

Yep, smooth go with new beta for the middle section. Maybe soft, but also my style with wide moves on good holds.

Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben

Startboulder, dann einfacher aber immer noch anregend. Obacht: Kleiner Runout zum Umlenker, gewürzt mit großem schlecht vermeidbaren brüchigem Block

6c in topo, big fun doing a techno ascent. High gravity today...

Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.

Relatively easy at the beginning, but with a tough laybacking finish. Had to fight to reach the anchor.

Two overhangs with good rests beneath and surprisingly good holds. In the headwall after I first went the wrong way but managed to stay on. Quite obvious where it counts and bolts where you need them. Good fight but veeery (too) soft for 7a imho.

2nd go. Athletic tufa fun, only far too short. Almost killed my belayer with a 5kg flake I broke out

Solved with an over-the-head kneebar / heelhook, which turned the fierce crux almost into a no-hand

My first 6c! Hard pulling over the top bulge.

Yeah, finally I made it! Some tries on this beast during the last years. This time didn't felt too hard - I must have improved.

Really hard only until 2nd bolt, but the rest is not totally given neither. A bit too short, more a highball boulder...

Once you have mastered the hard pull out of the overhanging crack, difficulties are mostly over.

Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...

Basically a boulder problem around the first bolt. Felt easier than the given grade.

Anscheinend die Haut einer Fingerkuppe oben gelassen- deswegen war der Sloper so rutschig...

nice & short

Wenn man weiß wie, dann geht's ganz geschmeidig... Für ne Kochel 7+ wohl eher einfach.

Im beginnenden Regen, aber nur oben feucht und da ist's ja leicht

Nice route with some hard metres over the first red bulge. Next time: redpoint!

Boulder start, some hard moves and a relaxing 2nd half. Nice route, only a bit unbalanced in difficulty.

Powerful. And exausting: several target holes in the overhang have been the wrong ones, but I somehow fought through.

Wow, fun mantle fight out of the roof crack.

Final good-bye route for this holiday, and a perfect choice: So nice and varied. First some demanding laybacking / dihedral, a tricky traverse around a flake and a technical more slabbish final - every single move is somehow demanding. Found a perfect finger lock in the upper part, and enjoyed the really nasty move to clip the anchor which at first appears to be 20cm to high

Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.

Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight

Nice technical moves through the overhang. Only too short.

Brutal start followed by a delicate traverse.

Finally redpointed it after failing on it last year. The delicate move to the middle slot still feels terrible

Excellent good-bye climbing in the evening sun, the Mallorca week is already over :-( Looks harder than it actually is.

Very technical route, nice one. The maximum possible today, very damp and no wind.

Got a bit lost again, but managed to stay on track!

Much easier if you know what to do

Repeat. Such a nice route.

Repeat. Totally wet first half, still brilliant to climb.