Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Unknown | ||||||||
6- | Normalweg | 3 | Westpfalz | Average | Fri 20th Aug 2010 | |||
exciting. Second pitch seemed to have been climbed rarely.
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6+ | ★ Westwandriss | 1 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Aug 2010 | |||
start is not easy, but well protected if you can place a large cam in the small roff at the start. Gets easier after that.
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Trad | ||||||||
6a+ | ★ Goldküste - with Danilo Hondo | 180m, 26 | Sustenpass | ★★ Very Good | Wed 31st Aug 2016 | |||
pleasure climbing with lots of holds, no extra pro needed
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6b+ 6b+ A1 | ★★ Via Pan | 60m, 8 | Cala Tuent & Sa Calobra | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Apr 2010 | |||
nice balance between natural gear and the occasional bolt when you need it (1. pitch lead, 2. followed)
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6+ | ★★ Kir Royal - with Danilo Hondo | 25m, 7 | Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Aug 2017 | |||
stunning finish
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7+ | ★★ Henckel trocken - with Danilo Hondo | 25m, 7 | Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Aug 2017 | |||
laybacking is easier than it looks
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6 6- | ★★ Startrampe - with Danilo Hondo | 32m, 6 | Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ★★★ Classic | Tue 29th Aug 2017 | |||
Start somewhat tricky, the rest real plaisir.
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6 | ★★★ Gelübde - with Danilo Hondo | 65m, 6 | Katzensteingebiet | ★★★ Classic | Wed 30th Aug 2017 | |||
Beautiful long route. Crux is in the first 10 m.
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6+ | ★★ Sonne & Schnee - with Melwin Quacke | 20m, 6 | Auersberggebiet | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||
lots of stemming
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6+ 6 | ★ Feierabend - with Danilo Hondo | 5 | Müglitztal | ★ Good | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | |||
some lichens at the base, but better the higher you get
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7- VI.1+ | ★★ Ostrze filara północnego (I wyciąg) (Ostrze filara północnego) - with Andreas | 15m, 5 | Rudawy Janowickie | ★★ Very Good | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | |||
Demanding finger locks to the thank-god root of the spruce. Accidentally took the exit of the route, which was quite a runout over a lychen-covered slab.
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8- | ★★★ Luftbrücke - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 5 | Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Aug 2017 | |||
reached the anchors from the right, which was 7-. Straight up seemed very reachy.
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7- | ★★ Teufelsriss - with Danilo Hondo | 22m, 5 | Auersberggebiet | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||
hard start, beautiful balance riddles
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6 6- | ★★ Talweg - with Danilo Hondo | 25m, 4 | Katzensteingebiet | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Aug 2017 | |||
6- | ★★ Mittelweg - with Danilo Hondo | 42m, 4 | Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Aug 2020 | |||
Quite a sweatfest on a sunny summer day, but the "anchors" feature a bench under a shady oak.
Unintentionally used the final moves of Blitzriss.
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6+ 6 | ★★ M50 - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 4 | Auersberggebiet | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||
classic crack line
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★★ Foothook - with Danilo Hondo | 22m, 3 | Greifensteine | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | ||||
reachy
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VIIIa | ★★ Wilde Orchidee - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | |||
somewhat sketchy moves on mediocre pro first bolt
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VIIa 6- | ★ Das alpine Abenteuer | 25m, 3 | Löbejün | ★ Good | Fri 1st Jul 2005 | |||
6 | ★ Direkter Trichterweg | 3 | Westpfalz | Average | Thu 19th Aug 2010 | |||
First pitch easy and well-protected; second with powerful moves and harder to protect
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6 | Aufiie Hoans - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 3 | Auersberggebiet | Average | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||
nice moves, but dirty. Bring extra pro
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5+ | ★★ Rechter Steinweg | 8m, 3 | Bunker "Koralle" | ★ Good | Mon 24th May 2021 | |||
Somewhat sketchy move to the sling placement.
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IV+ | ★★ Kant Sukiennic - with Andreas | 25m, 3 | Sokoliki | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Aug 2022 | |||
versatile
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VIIb | ★★ !Neuer Talweg - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | |||
somewhat sketchy to first bolt
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6- Easy | ★★ Direkte Westkante - with Lina | 25m, 3 | Weser-Leine-Bergland | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th May 2023 | |||
concentrated crux past bulge, the rest pure pleasure
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VIIc | Ecopoint ★ Talweg - with Danilo Hondo | 55m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||
Lower part often damp.
Somewhat sketchy to first small thread, then easier to first bolt. Crux after 3rd bolt.
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VIIb | ★★★ Schädelriß | 11m, 2 | Unterharz | Tue 3rd Sep 2013 | ||||
More off-fist than it looks like, so some laybacking may help you especially in the upper half.
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VIIc | ★★ Vitamin A - with Danilo Hondo | 2 | Teplické skály | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd May 2015 | |||
reasonably protectable; harder than it looks just before ringbolt. Friction moves off the bolts quite hard.
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VIIc | ★ Zelené kobylky - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 2 | Tisá | Average | Sun 23rd Aug 2015 | |||
demanding moves at start; crispy holds and mediocre pro; exit moves not hard but somewhat runout
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VIIIa | ★★★ Budínova cesta - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | |||
smooth till first bolt, then 10 mm sling can be placed above overhang. Strange move to 2. bolt. Another smaller sling before the final wall, which is unexpectedly crimpy.
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★★ Intermezzo - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 2 | Greifensteine | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | ||||
reachy past the roof
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VIIb VIIa | ★★ Kleine Hangel | 2 | Unterharz | Tue 3rd Sep 2013 | ||||
After the ring bolt still tricky
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VI V | ★★ Snadný výlov - with Lina, Merle, Jule | 15m, 2 | Adršpašské skály | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | |||
exceptionally well protected
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VIIa VI | ★★ Po třech sudech - with Reiko, Jeremias, Lina | 17m, 2 | Tisá | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Aug 2015 | |||
plenty of pro; exit crack demands some jamming
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VIIb | ★★ Fotbalové klání - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 2 | Tisá | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Aug 2015 | |||
better quality than it looks, crux shortly past first bolt and around corner
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VIIa | ★★ Talweg - with Lina | 35m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Sep 2016 | |||
crux at bulge after first bolt. Somewhat sketchy off the pillar to Alter Weg. Watch out for rope drag.
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6- 5 | ★★ Plattenwand - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 2 | Muldetal bei Rochsburg | Average | Sun 27th Aug 2017 | |||
Dirty, damp and somewhat tricky start, the rest went OK.
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6+ | ★★★ Ostkante Direktausstieg - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 2 | Katzensteingebiet | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Sep 2017 | |||
Started with Direkte Ostkante:
sketchy start till ring bolt. Mid-sized stopper helps.
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VIIc VIIb | ★★ Karlova půltečka - with bine, Danilo Hondo | 15m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
stiff starting moves, the sling knot in the shallow seam helps the mind. After the first bolt, still interesting, but no more unpleasant surprises.
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VI VIIa | Řezání svatebního polena (Baumstammsägen) - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 2 | Ostrov | Average | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
crumblier than it looks until first bolt, without decent pro; the rest is fine.
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VIIb | ★ Regis Sylva - with bine, Danilo Hondo | 17m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||
straight up to first bolt is surprisingly hard. Bring at least three 5-mm-slings. I used two in the seam above the second bolt, which I found to be the crux move.
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4 | ★★ Titanic - with Torsten | 12m, 2 | Unterharz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Sep 2018 | |||
well protected, take stoppers for crack above.
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5 | ★★ Nordwestkante - with Bine | 18m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 31st May 2019 | |||
extra sling for threading recommended
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5 | ★ Nordwestriss - with Bine | 16m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Fri 31st May 2019 | |||
rappel off last bolt - no anchors
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5+ | Linke Verschneidung - with bine | 14m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Thu 30th May 2019 | |||
bring a long sling for the block or a stopper
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4+ | ★ Südpfeiler - with bine | 14m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 30th May 2019 | |||
big stopper for crack section, large sling for the top
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6- V | ★★ Fichtenwand - with Danilo Hondo | 22m, 2 | Greifensteine | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Aug 2020 | |||
harder than it looks
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5 | Spreize | 8m, 2 | Bunker "Koralle" | Average | Mon 24th May 2021 | |||
Western wall somewhat flaky; crux is leaving the stemming position.
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IV+ | Zacięcie spadającej wiertarki - with Andreas | 10m, 2 | Sokoliki | Average | Mon 29th Aug 2022 | |||
reasonable pro
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VI VIIa | ★★ Rozlejzačka | 15m, 2 | Křížový vrch | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2022 | |||
"No worries" slab
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VI V | ★★ Stará cesta | 22m, 2 | Křížový vrch | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2022 | |||
Tricky start, then easier. Final steep arete has good jugs
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VIIc ~VIIb | Mimose - with Danilo Hondo | 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | ||||
sandy and somewhat brittle at the start, but juggy and two sling placements close to the lid.
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VIIb Hard | ★★ Eigentliche Westkante - with Danilo Hondo | 25m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | |||
crux at R, take thin sling to protect exit
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VIIa | ★★ Juniweg - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Oct 2022 | |||
4 Hard | ★★★ Nordwestverschneidung - with Lina | 25m, 2 | Weser-Leine-Bergland | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th May 2023 | |||
6- Hard | Ecopoint ★★★ Schmale Wand - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 2 | Auersberggebiet | ★★★ Classic | Tue 18th Jul 2023 | |||
Solid rock, not too sharp. Consistent grade. Some Trad pro recommended.
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VIIb ~VIIc | Ecopoint ★★ Spielplatz - with Tilli | 20m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | |||
Reachy to second bolt, crimpy past it. Sandy but easy topout.
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VIIIb | ★ Údolní cesta - with Danilo Hondo | 2 | Tisá | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Sep 2018 | |||
hard moves right off the deck. I spotted no decent pro apart from the obvious chicken head. Easier after the first bolt.
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VIIc Hard | ★★ Joint Venture - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | |||
somewhat sketchy between 2. and 3rd bolt
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VIIIa | Ecopoint ★ Wahrhaft Letzte Ölung - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||
Initial wall to bolt no pro, but OK. Long thread in ledge, bring hook. Slab unprotected, but OK when you Stand Up the left hole. Final part has reachy Clip, then OK.
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VIIIa | ★★ Hřbitovní kvítí - with Tilli, Danilo Hondo | 18m, 2 | Tisá | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Aug 2015 | |||
crimpy move past first bolt, then easier but still interesting to top. Good 7 mm sling somewhat above second bolt
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7- | ★★ Rechter Südriss | 10m, 1 | Oberharz | Mon 23rd Jul 2012 | ||||
VIIc | ★★★ Údolní - with Tilli | 80m, 1 | Adršpašské skály | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Getting into the overhanging part of the chimney is somewhat scary, Ufos and some thick slings may be placed. Handcrack is great, final chimney/offwidth is somewhat runout but okay.
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VIIa | ★★ Studená - with Danilo Hondo | 1 | Adršpašské skály | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||
wide split to reach the first thread, then easier with good pro, reachy move to bolt. Final edge well protected.
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VIIc | Schwache Nerven - with Torsten | 1 | Unterharz | Average | Tue 13th Sep 2016 | |||
VIIb | ★ Cesta věřících - with Danilo Hondo, bine | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Sat 28th Apr 2018 | |||
sketchy moves until thread, then easier.
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VIIa | ★★ Kde jsi byl?! - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
nice moves, but a bit damp. Some of the blocks sound a bit hollow.
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VIIc | ★★ Východní cesta - with Danilo Hondo | 25m, 1 | Tisá | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Sep 2018 | |||
well-protectable, with short powerful crux at the lieback after the ringbolt
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VIIc | ★ Železná cesta - with Danilo Hondo | 1 | Tisá | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Sep 2018 | |||
short crux after bolt
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6 | ★★ Weisse Verschneidung - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 1 | Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Aug 2020 | |||
just started from the ledge, but this upper part was quite nice.
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6- | ★ Talweg - with Danilo Hondo | 1 | Auersberggebiet | ★ Good | Fri 7th Aug 2020 | |||
well-protectable and reasonably clean until bolt, then mossy but easier.
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6- | ★★ Schiefer Nordriss | 1 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Aug 2010 | |||
VIIa |
Co ted? (Co ted? P1)
- with
Tilli, Emilia, Florian
1
VIIa
| 8m, 1 | Adršpašské skály | Average | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
well protected: large sling in crack, bolt. Reachy and slopery crux move toward right crack, another sling to be placed.
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6 | ★ Variante - with Daniel | 15m, 1 | Pfahl | ★ Good | Sun 10th Aug 2014 | |||
single powerful move past overhang, rest easier. #2 cam and sling useful.
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6 6- | ★★ Piaz | 8m, 1 | Pfahl | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Aug 2014 | |||
#5 stopper useful 1 m above bolt. Powerful first move, then easier.
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4- | ★★ Schuppe | 10m, 1 | Pfahl | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Aug 2014 | |||
Crux at start. Takes lots of pro. Flake sounds a bit hollow.
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VI | ★ Umlaufův traverz - with Emilia | 1 | Adršpašské skály | ★ Good | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||
lots of protection, slightly awkward for second because of some downclimbing in traverse. Somewhat balancy move into final chimney, then easy.
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VIIa | ★★ Tschunkova cesta - with Lina, Nona | 18m, 1 | Tisá | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Aug 2015 | |||
somewhat sandy start, then easy climbing to ring. Short harder traverse, good 9 mm sling in left crack, then traverse back right to exit
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VI | ★★ Westkante - with Jule, Lina, Joana, Thara | 10m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 30th Sep 2016 | |||
IV | ★ Veteranenkante - with @torsten | 10m, 1 | Unterharz | ★ Good | Thu 14th Sep 2017 | |||
short climbing along edge
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VIIa | Cesta v plavkách - with Danilo Hondo, bine, lina | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Sat 28th Apr 2018 | |||
crux moves to the ringbolt
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V IV | ★ Jižní hrana - with Danilo Hondo, lina, jule, bine | 15m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | |||
no surprises, just as it looks
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V | ★ Jižní cesta - with Danilo Hondo | 12m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | |||
unspectacular but pleasant
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VI | ★★ Kouzelná hrana - with bine, lina | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
demanding move past hole in starting crack. 2 m above the ringbolt there is a trusty thread right at the edge, which makes the rest a breeze.
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VIIc VIIb | ★★ Pálení čarodějnic - with Danilo Hondo | 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||
easy and protectable until bolt. From there, shallow holds and poor footholds for 2 m. Large thread at ledge - bring at least 3 m of sling. Move past overhand slightly more demanding than it looks, the rest is easy.
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VI | Vzkříšená tradice - with Danilo Hondo | 1 | Tisá | Average | Sat 22nd Sep 2018 | |||
6+ VIIc | ★★ Toter Riss Direkteinstieg - with Danilo Hondo | 24m, 1 | Greifensteine | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | |||
Don't slip at the first moves - your fingers might get stuck in the splinter crack.
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6- | ★★ Pentaeder | 10m, 1 | Bunker "Koralle" | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||
Clip or sling iron rods in the lower part, use rusty bolt (?) far left in the upper part. Solid hand jams.
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IV | ★★ Südostweg | 25m, 1 | Nördliches Harzvorland | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Apr 2022 | |||
Marvellous cliff, but really soft and sandy rock, making the actual climbing not too enjoyable.
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IV | ★★★ Kroczek - with Andreas | 18m, 1 | Sokoliki | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Aug 2022 | |||
impressive, exposed, watch for ropedrag
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V III | ★ Západní stěna - with Andreas | 8m, 1 | Křížový vrch | Average | Thu 1st Sep 2022 | |||
sandy, stiff for the grade
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VI | Jižní hrana - with Andreas | 10m, 1 | Křížový vrch | ★ Good | Thu 1st Sep 2022 | |||
start balancy but well protected with 5 mm sling
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VIIc V | ★ Měsíční procházka - with Andreas | 12m, 1 | Křížový vrch | ★ Good | Thu 1st Sep 2022 | |||
hard start, non-trivial finish. Clipping the ring bolt can be protected in hole with 10 mm sling or UFO
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VIIa | ★★ Nordwestriss - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | |||
well protectable tricky starting moves, then awesome jamming
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I Hard | ★ Alter Weg - with Lina, Lewin | 1 | Dippoldiswalder Heide | ★ Good | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | |||
VI | ★ Kalte Finger - with Seth | 9m, 1 | Nördliches Harzvorland | ★ Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
The lid of the roof takes a small stopper.
|
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VIIb | Ecopoint ★ Vaterunser - with Reiko, Jasper | 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||
Not as crumbly as it Looks. Three interesting overhangs to pass. Reasonably pro.
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VIIIa | ★★ Kurz und Schmerzlos - with Danilo Hondo | 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | |||
6 mm sling halfway up to bolt. Crux is getting past finger holes to ledge. Solid 6 mm sling in the left. Exit slightly right.
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VIIIa | ★ Tvář slunce - with Danilo Hondo | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
sketchy moves around edge to bolt. Then I used the seam to the left, which probably was the adjacent route. Still, this is demanding and the finger crack is not easy to reach, a fall would pendulum you around the edge.
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VIIc | ★ Erwähnung - with Tilli, Torsten | 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | |||
Somewhat tricky start, especially for finding a good position for the belayer. Then easier but sustained, slightly sandy topout.
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