Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3359
points
| 9- 9-/9 | Olaf klärt das schon - with Markus Benning | 18m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
The hardest boulder problem here. Had to fight quite a bit, already felt the fingers of my right hand slip just before reaching the first good hold. The middle part is unfortunately once again relatively forgettable, just like with all the routes here. Took me a while to commit to the finish because I didn't want to ruin the onsight.
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3299
points
| 8+ ~8 | ★★★ Hängt a weng über - with KP | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st May 2024 | |||
3234
points
| 8+ 9- | ★★ Weiter, immer weiter... Und du findest deinen Weg - with KP | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Sep 2023 | |||
Great vertical wall climbing on small, sometimes tiny holds. Nice little runout section in the middle. The upper section is easier but still not obvious and demanding. 9- is slightly exaggerated given that Schwarze Magie right next to it is similar but probably harder (and has the longer runout).
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|||||||||
3233
points
| 8+ | ★★★ Ton in Ton - with KP | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 2023 | |||
Fantastic (endurance?) wall climbing on perfect rock structures. Zaphod is supposed to be even better, now I'm curious! High first bolt, best stay a little to the left of it (positive crimps). Reaching the second is safe although it looks scary. Tricky moves lead to a big, diagonal sidepull rail. The hueco at the end looks inviting at first, but turns out to be a sloper. I used the slopy crimp on the right side, though, to get into the next section, which felt like the hardest move of the route. Two moves on and you're juggling big flakes again. Standing up on the flakes into a sensible rest, the style changes again to pockets. The finish can still throw you off, but it's not too bad, go for the holds on the arête!
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3231
points
| 8+ | ★★ Moderne Zeiten - with Ellen | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||
Rarely done, but exactly my cup of tea. Starts like Stefan Böhm, so if you're not comfortable with shoulder cracks and chimneys, you'll have your problems there. The traverse out of the chimney is actually the crux of the whole endeavour. I put a long sling into the bolt at the start of the traverse, plus a short draw, which I unclipped once I had reached the next bolt. Left out the first bolt and put a sling in the second, too. Not too much rope drag this way, but if you're really comfortable, leave out the second bolt as well. That way a short sling at the start of the traverse suffices and you won't have to unclip anything. Anyway, the traverse is mostly hard due to bad (or missing) footholds. Good rest afterwards and a juggy section to the ledge. Finally, a great crack line almost to the top, but you have to leave it because Mr. Löw decided to bolt further to the right so you can't reach the anchor from the crack. Don't try to clip it too early!
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3229
points
| 9- | ★★ Südriss - with mb | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | |||
The theme, "routes, parts of which I already climbed", continues. The cruxy start felt hugely different this time, though, because I forgot all the beta and just intuitively used the crack, which turned out to be way smoother than how I remembered my previous beta to be. From there it's a separate route, following a slightly overhanging crack dihedral. Great moves, good protection. The little runout at the end is chill. #lastrouteoftheday
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3202
points
| 7b+ | ★★ Knjiga o bambusu - with Bovist | 30m | Krk | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Sep 2021 | |||
Overhanging endurance climb along the black streak, already some harder moves before the good rest at the chunky hold, but the real difficulty is the technical, almost vertical top part and retaining enough juice in the arms to clip the anchor from the pumpy undercling.
|
|||||||||
3172
points
| 7a+ | ★ Unnamed 22 - with Ellen | 12m | Porto area | ★ Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | |||
3167
points
| 9- | ★★ Bergfix - with KP | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Sep 2021 | |||
Quite the fight. Felt hard, even though I apparently intuitively climbed the "easier" right-hand variant (with the "direct" line going down as 9-/9). Finicky face climbing to a deep, sharp pocket below the bulge, then traverse to the right and an awkward clip (the bolt is set quite high up, probably on purpose ). Reached up to a bad sidepull, and with the help of a sharp two-finger pocket bumped up to what turned out to be a jug. The problem with the right-hand variant is that it's hard to continue from there, but the rest in the good jug definitely saved me. Failed my first attempt to go on, had to drop back into the jug. Pushed through on my second stab and reached the mega jug at the book case. From there it's easier, but fantastic pocket climbing, but I took my time due to the pump I had already accumulated.
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3166
points
| 9- | ★★ Global Beats - with Matzka | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | |||
Didn't expect to get through this as it was my #lastrouteoftheday. Luckily, though, it's mostly an endurance piece, with two or three harder moves strewn in, which I got right immediately, albeit on the verge of running out of power. The runout after the expansion bolt increased my motivation to pull through. Rewarding! A bit careful on the first 10 meters, though, there are some loose holds.
|
|||||||||
3158
points
| 8+ 8/8+ | ★ Oh Captain, mein Captain - with Bovist | 13m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Jul 2023 | |||
Good route if you like tiny holds. Nasty start and sustained until the bulge. Can still throw you off in the upper part if you're not careful.
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3145
points
| 9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jun 2021 | |||
Great wall climbing with a cruxy pocket finish. The last few pockets are quite shallow, barely managed to dyno to the victory jug.
|
|||||||||
3123
points
| 9- | ★★ Dropzone - with Daniel | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||
Visually the best line in this part of the wall. Also a great climb. Steep pockets in the first part, then a glory jug in the middle, followed by some awesome technical trickery in the upper part. Took the undercling above the bad little crimps as an overhead gaston (is that a thing?) to get my feet up, risky to try this in the onsight but it paid off!
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3104
points
| 8 ~8- | ★★ Fallende Tropfen - with KP | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Mar 2024 | |||
Strenuous climbing in the beginning, then a brittle middle section which is actually nice to climb if you know how to navigate choss. But it only gets better the higher you get, with a phenomenal finish in perfect, black rock.
|
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3100
points
| 8 | ★★★ In Memoriam Manne - with Markus Benning | 21m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 25th Feb 2024 | |||
Pumpy sidepull action. Probably much harder if there's no chalk on the holds. Good moves.
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|||||||||
3096
points
| 9 | ★★ Pumpgun - with mantra | 20m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | |||
Oh bummer. Sat in the rope below the crux, about 3 meters off the ground, with no hard moves below me, then started from there, managed to get through the crux. Never having completed the upper part in one go, I didn't think I'd make it, so I continued on. Finished the traverse barely holding on and lunged for the sidepull. No idea how I stuck that move, but I kept pushing (or rather pulling) me to the top. Probably can't be arsed to do this again since the crux is such a hit and miss. Close enough to a clean send for me.
|
|||||||||
3079
points
| 9- | ★★ Gargamel - with David X | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Nov 2020 | |||
Great line along the narrow south east face; mostly pockets with some nasty moves. One pocket after the second bolt was worse than I had expected so I jumped out to the arête. My feet cut loose, my woollen hat fell off, but luckily, I had exactly hit the hold on the arête, so I quickly rearranged my feet and continued to the next jug. Unfortunately, it's again not obvious how to continue from there, so my right arm slowly got pumped and I just had to use everything I had to cling to the arête. Used up the last bit of strength to throw my hand up into the fist jam in the crack. Super happy about the onsight.
|
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3078
points
| 7b | ★★ Trlica in Sinica - with Bovist | 30m | Krk | ★ Good | Tue 14th Sep 2021 | |||
Felt a bit squeezed in between the other lines. Always feels a bit weird if you could clip the bolts of the neighbouring route as well, but it's still good endurance climbing with some nice moves. The top part is tricky because the holds are a bit hidden.
|
|||||||||
3067
points
| 8+ | ★★ Bergfex direkt - with KP | 32m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2022 | |||
The first 25ish meters are great wall climbing in the lower 7th grade, totally recommended even if you don't intend to climb the little roof. The latter felt a little reachy and it seems that some people climb it even further to the right than I did, lots of chalk there. A few powerful and long moves to a good horn and that's it. Maybe not the hardest 8+ if you've got the reach.
|
|||||||||
3066
points
| 9- | ★★ Schwarzer Wolf - with KP | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Oct 2020 | |||
I was very surprised when I realised I had just climbed the overhanging crack start first try and without really thinking about it. Probably would have been hard to reproduce the sequence (I reached up high with the left hand from the undercling, then somehow toehooked blindly under the roof, pulled on a crimp on the right and wedged my knee into the dihedral), so I just had to finish it right away. Luckily, it worked out, although I almost fell off due to losing my right foot when I reached out to a jug on the right. Cool crack start and good wall climbing on pockets and crimps above.
|
|||||||||
3051
points
| 8 | ★★ Gekotzt wird oben - with Ellen | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||
Felt hard, but it's not exactly my style. Steep start on good holds, bumped up a few times. Fun, but I prefer static moves. :-P Easy middle part, then suddenly round holds in the overhang. Got myself into a position where I had sloper sidepulls in both hands, my left foot hooked around the corner, right foot tightly pressed onto a foothold, so all I could do was bump up. Chose to go up left into what looked like a structured pocket. Almost missed the good portion of it but held on. Probably there's an easier solution for that (I read that some people go around left) but at least I can see where the name comes from.
|
|||||||||
3048
points
| 8+ 8/8+ | ★★ ¿Oiga que tal? - with Ellen | 39m, 14 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||
Incredibly long route. The start is a bit awkward, I stayed on the right up to almost the third bolt before getting into the bolt line. Very tricky and technical crux in the middle, getting onto the slab. Fantastic finish in white rock, slightly overhanging. Soloed the first pitch of Punta Civetta, which is totally fine if you're a bit careful; that part is probably why the route isn't praised as much in the guide books.
|
|||||||||
3046
points
| 9- | ★ Letzte Instanz - with Markus | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 28th Jul 2020 | |||
Three bolts up and then traverse above the roof. Together with the classic traverse, this one has the best rock quality of the crag. Quite sustained and not very obvious. The hardest part is clipping the bolts, though. Unfortunately, each one of them in the traverse is too low. Might be 8+ with better bolting.
|
|||||||||
3044
points
| 8 8+ | ★★★ Schütze Gedenkweg - with Ellen | 45m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Aug 2023 | |||
Marvellous classic, marred a little by the gnarly start after the flake has been ripped off. Didn't remember the section after the belay to be so hard, some proper athletic moves there. Beautiful traverse to the right. I didn't realize the original went up in the left dihedral, so I once again climbed the finish of "Station 53" after resting for ages in the kneebar.
|
|||||||||
3034
points
| 8 | Direkte Talseite - with David X | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | |||
Phew. Nasty, hard, attack on the fingers. Not exactly a beauty. The clips are fiddly, too.
|
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3033
points
| 8 | ★★ Sudden Death - with Harald | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Jul 2023 | |||
For some reason I thought this was supposed to be 9 or harder, so when I read that it was only 8 I had to hop on it. Crux is to get out under the little bulge in the middle. I solved it by going to the left a bit first, then stepping onto the bulge whilst in a finger lock with my left hand. Quite tricky! The runout to the bolt above that is perfectly fine, there are big holds on the arête to the right. Still powerful towards the top, but nowhere near the ninth grade. Good route! Should be done more to keep the dust from building up.
|
|||||||||
3029
points
| 8 8/8+ | ★★ Steinschleuder - with mantra | 22m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | |||
Nice route despite the looks. Relatively obvious line along chunky jugs to a good rest below the final bulge, which is easier than it looks (but still a little powerful, of course). Crux might actually be the start, the rest is endurance.
|
|||||||||
3028
points
| 8+ | ★★ Bis zum bitteren Ende - with Markus Benning | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Nov 2021 | |||
Amazing pockets in the steep part, crux for me was the little traverse below the bulge and getting over it into vertical terrain (seems like it‘s a tad easier a bit further to the right, but I missed that opportunity). The name suggests a bitter end, but with the good rest two meters below the anchor (probably not used by the first ascensionist) it‘s not too bad.
|
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3022
points
| 8+ | ★★★ Fritz Kasparek Gedenkweg - with Bovist | 18m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | |||
Not as physical as VHG to the left, but it more than makes up for it in terms of technique. A long series of tough, interesting moves along a thin crack line. Mostly balancy laybacking, a good fingerlock in the middle provides a rest. The bulge towards the last bolt felt cruxy to me, took me a good while to find a solution. Great route.
|
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3019
points
| 8 8+ | Pellkartoffelkönig Ebbo - with Harald | 4m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | ||||
Three moves or so, short boulder after a no-hands rest at the anchor, good rock. Probably easier than 8+.
|
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3019
points
| 8 8+ | ★ Hexenhütte - with Harald | 14m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | ||||
Yet another one of the same style. The starting boulder is a little harder than the one of YOLO, but 8+ is too much.
|
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3019
points
| 8 8+ | Sockenhausen - with Harald | 18m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | ||||
Who would have guessed … more of the same. The start feels a bit different because the rock is darker. The traverse along the roof felt a little contrived, although of course the holds are nice. You probably need to stay very low to make it 8+. If you grab the jugs above the penultimate bolt, it's around 8, I think.
|
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3018
points
| 8 | ★★★ Fantastiisch - with Ellen | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 29th May 2023 | |||
Easy start, then an awkward clip where the overhang starts. Had to clip it while sitting like a frog on a sort of tufa-like rail (no real tufa, of course, we don't get that here). From there it's really athletic and dynamic climbing, fortunately I guessed the combination right.
|
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3014
points
| 8 | ★★ Symphonie - with Bovist | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 18th May 2023 | |||
Good pocket climbing. The pockets seeped a little and were slimy from all the chalk, though. Airy finish. Careful, longer than the rest of the routes here.
|
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3011
points
| 8 | ★★ Top Tour - with KP | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 7th May 2023 | |||
Short, steep, slightly painful holds. One pocket in the crux was wet, felt awkward, still managed to make the move into the round pocket, albeit more dynamically than I would usually have done it.
|
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3006
points
| 8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Ringe der Idioten - with KP | 37m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Sep 2021 | |||
Homogeneous wall climbing on small holds. Nice technical dance up the wall, right up my alley. The character changes in pitch 2, with a reachy crux at the bulge and then a good few meters of pocket pulling. Did the whole thing in one pitch, but the rest at the anchor of "Ringe" is good enough, so I don't think the difficulty goes up to a full 9- if you add "Weltmeister der Herzen" on top. Brilliant if you like vertical climbing on small holds.
|
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3004
points
| 8+ | ★★ Jim Panze - with thedark | 17m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | |||
Pumpy overhang passage with sidepulls and underclings, I really went all in on this one, felt quite hard. Bumped up a few times almost desperately to reach the big undercling. Turns out it's not exactly a rest, so you still need to fight on to reach the next undercling … and the jug afterwards. The runout in the end is fine, though; just don't pull too hard on the fragile fin on top.
|
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3004
points
| 8 8/8+ | ★ Konkaves Geheimnis - with Christoph Straubmeier | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 13th Apr 2023 | |||
Nice black slab, quite tough today because it was moist, followed by a one-move crux to the big jug rail. A few more athletic moves to the anchor.
|
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2996
points
| 8+ | ★★ Unnamed - with Markus Benning | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Apr 2022 | |||
Super sharp, rough holds (you almost can't slip out of the pockets) and great line and climbing. Easy layback start, then onto the arête and into the pocketed headwall. Quite straightforward. The last bolt before the anchor is awkwardly placed, but you can safely clip late.
|
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2987
points
| 8+ | ★★ Kontrastprogramm - with KP | 25m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2022 | |||
Brilliant line that draws up almost diagonally. It's exclusively wall climbing on crimps and pockets, the variety indicated in the name comes from the different rock structures. Starts off with sharp, almost crystalline dolomite crimps and pockets, then the edges get duller and duller, culminating in a short, smooth wall with slopers and bad feet (smearing is paramount). Finally some sidepulls and edges in black rock to the anchor. I knew this last part already from the combination I climbed last time. 4 no-hands rests, so not too exhausting, but lots of places to mess up. #lastrouteoftheday
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2978
points
| 9- Easy | Acht Kilo zu viel - with KP | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 12th Nov 2023 | ||||
Even though it didn't feel too good, I somehow made my way up to the last bolt, which gave me the courage to push on and finish it. I somehow intuitively chose the correct sequence at the top, turned out great.
|
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2974
points
| 9- | ★★ Über den Wolken - with Melanie Straubmeier | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Oct 2023 | |||
Nice one. It's crucial for me to leave out the clip in the crux and only use the rusty pegs afterwards. Wouldn't be dangerous even if the pegs break. Without having to clip that bolt, you can quickly power through the boulder moves. The extension adds fantastically to the airiness of the whole endeavour, but is more or less just a bonus, since it's much easier. The original route drove out to the left here.
|
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2971
points
| 8+ | ★★ Geierblick - with Alex | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 7th May 2021 | |||
Alex put in the draws when coming down from Göttner, because I read that clipping the first is tough without a draw in (and it is). Clipping the second bolt was extremely awkward because I didn't find the clipping jug … you shouldn't fall while clipping, so that was uncomfortable. Still more slab action after the clip, took me a while to find a viable solution. The really hard part for me, though, was the section after the bulge. Nice jugs get you into the overhang, but then there's one section with few holds, and they're all quite bad. Got over that passage by the skin of my teeth. Certainly worth 8+, already for the slab below, but especially in combination with that hard passage up top.
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2965
points
| 8+ | KaOz - with KP | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | |||
Same start as "Ambivalenzia", but then drives out a little left to a really chossy section of the bulge. Hard to find solid holds, and even harder to find the one mediocre pocket above the edge which allows you to pull up and reach the crimps. Nice short wall section afterwards, but the finish is a little awkward again (easier on the right, but probably intended to be climbed directly?).
|
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2965
points
| 9- | ★★ Open Air - with KP | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Sep 2023 | |||
Great, sustained wall climbing in the middle. Only the line isn't absolutely clear … but that might be due to the traverse bolts of the original Meier route. Can't count this as a redpoint because I left out a (presumably) substantial part of the climb and it's an endurance piece.
|
|||||||||
2951
points
| 9 | ★ Narziss - with Tobias | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2022 | |||
Carried out the beta as practised. (First old bolt preclipped.)
|
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2950
points
| 9- | ★★ Break Free | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Aug 2023 | |||
Got through clean even though I hadn‘t worked out the upper part! Pumpy as hell if you still have to figure out the moves. My big toe of the right foot is complaining a bit because it had the hardest job in this one, the footholds on the left are almost always too bad to weight them fully.
|
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2947
points
| 9- | ★★ Buchnerpfeiler - with Bovist | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | |||
Definitely much better with higher temps. Last time, in winter, the sharp holds were killing my skin. Perfect conditions today. Unusual style for me because my beta involves quite a few dynamic bumps. The upper part is still tricky and exhausting, almost fell off when I lunged to a sloper and didn't stick it fully. Readjusting luckily worked out and I could muster the strength to pull up into the rest.
|
|||||||||
2945
points
| 8- | ★ Doppelkinn - with Alex | 13m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 19th May 2024 | |||
2944
points
| 8+ | ★ Zeitfenster - with mantra | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 31st Oct 2021 | |||
Straight up the centre of the white face, following a faint crack that runs out in the middle, which is also where the hardest moves await. Just stole mantra's beta, which worked out nicely.
|
|||||||||
2943
points
| 9- | ★★ Des Wahnsinns fette Beute - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Aug 2019 | |||
Unusually crisp crimps all the way, with quite a few difficult, beautiful moves, but also some bigger holds to rest a bit in between. Felt like climbing on a lush evening in the Mediterranean.
|
|||||||||
2943
points
| 7a+ | ★★★ Outsider - with Bovist | 29m | Krk | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Sep 2021 | |||
Sustained overhang section with some smaller holds. The crux move might be the cross into the mediocre sidepull and keeping it together afterwards on the slopy crimps. It's not over at the no-hands rest, though! The top section is still challenging. Great one.
|
|||||||||
2942
points
| 9- | ★★ a Brick - with matzka | 20m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 1st Mar 2024 | |||
My hardest second. ;-) The bolting is a bit strange, always a bit too far on the left, which also makes the third (or so) clip scary, especially because the most important hold seems to be wet for quite some time. Tried Matzes beta in the upper part (a little more to the right, "resting" on a "jug" for a few seconds), but found it more difficult than my direct variant. A reachy lunge up left is the last hard move.
|
|||||||||
2941
points
| 9- | ★ Raven Roof - with mantra | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 14th Aug 2019 | |||
Shares the start with "Recycler" and then draws out into the roof on the left. Body tension problem to get into the jugs on the left, a hook helps you up into the wall. Maybe soft in the grade.
|
|||||||||
2926
points
| 9- | ★ Red Porsche Killer - with Markus | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 25th Jun 2019 | |||
One of the weirdest ascents I ever experienced. I already thought I wouldn't make it to the top when I clipped the first bolt. The same thing happened at the second bolt. And at the third. When I had reached the fourth, I started to believe I could actually make it. I rested on the mediocre pocket below the bolt for a while … and then accidentally pushed down my glasses with my shoulder so they fell to the ground. Only one bolt between me and the anchor, I had to climb the rest practically blind. Whenever I could, I moved my face as close as possible to the wall to inspect the footholds. For handholds, I had to trust in the chalk I could make out. After a while of resting at the fifth bolt, I finally committed to the last moves to the jugs. Not sure if I can claim an on"sight" given those circumstances.
|
|||||||||
2926
points
| 8- | ★ Ruhig Brauner - with Corinna | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 17th Mar 2024 | |||
Pretty stiff. Maybe that's also because I thought I was climbing a 7 or so, which turned out to be the route next to this one. Not bad, but the start is super steep and I didn't solve it too elegantly. Hard moves after the ledge.
|
|||||||||
2923
points
| 9- | ★★ Ronja die Räubertochter - with Bovist | 22m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Mar 2020 | |||
Put the draws in while lowering from "Schwabenriss" and had beta from KP. I walked past this last time and didn't really care, because the first few meters already looked chossy. Turns out you don't even climb that part; thin traverse to the arête from the right above the second bolt, then non-stop pockets, crimps and the occasional slap up the arête, with a mediocre rest after the fourth bolt (which is hard to clip, I needed to put another draw into the one that was already there to be able to safely pull up the rope); a few more moves to a better rest at the arête, followed by a glorious slab finish in perfect black rock, warmed by the sun.
|
|||||||||
2919
points
| 8+ | ★★ Drachentöter - with Daniel | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2020 | |||
Fantastic, sunny arête in perfect rock. Hooks left and right, technical moves on sidepulls and an airy, overhanging finish on pockets along the arête a bit to the left.
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2918
points
| 8+ | ★★★ Bella Addizione - with Alex | 37m, 16 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Nov 2020 | |||
Incredibly long route with quite a few difficult passages, but with some good rest points. The hardest section is getting from the dihedral out onto the arête in the lower part without barndooring. The finish is marvellous: exposed climbing through the final overhang, just keep it together and climb, don't stop. The moves aren't too hard, the holds big enough. The longer your quickdraws are, the better.
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2918
points
| 8 | ★ Fränkische Köstlichkeiten - with Ellen | 20m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||
Slightly unpleasant and strenuous passage over the roof, a little awkward in the slab away from the rusty peg, but other than that a great route with the typical rock structures of the crag.
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2917
points
| 8- ~7+ | ★ Dieter Dörrer Gedenkweg - with Raimund, KP | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Feb 2024 | |||
A real gem, but it's probably good that it's not climbed too often, the hollow structures in the lower part might not endure an onslaught of ascents. I followed the most logical line when climbed freely: up a bit past the second bolt (good nut), then left onto the little ledge, up to the horizontal break, follow this to the right and up on relatively good holds.
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2917
points
| 8 | ★★ Waterloo - with mantra | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Jun 2022 | |||
Great wall climbing on pockets. Crux in the middle before the break. Devious little undercling: first you spot it from below but you can't really do anything with it. Then you move up so it's just in front of your belly. Remembered about it just in time, but then almost botched the onsight because I hastily slapped up to the break, hoping for a jug, but just hitting a sloper. Had to do a few insecure moves to get out of that conundrum. The upper part is easier, just stay a bit on the left and you're good.
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2917
points
| 8+ | ★★★ Das Letzte Hemd - with Ellen | 36m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st Jul 2023 | |||
Finally sent this king line. My last attempt earlier this year really paid off, even though I remembered the beta only schematically. This was also the first time I tried the direct start via "Taschenspieler", which adds around 8 to 10 meters of technical wall climbing. The conditions were also perfect, so the middle section felt pretty safe (also, there's an old peg that I hadn't seen before which helps a bit). Brilliant slab dance to the crux as always. Shook out shortly, then started into the bouldery passage. The hold for my left hand felt somehow wrong, but I knew I wouldn't get the chance to readjust, so I just put my right foot up high onto the important foothold I remembered, and pressed up into the undercling. After this I felt quite fresh, so I knew I could make it if I kept my shit together, which I apparently did. The finish felt secure and calm, I wasn't even too pumped when I reached the anchor.
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|||||||||
2911
points
| 8+ | ★★ Fat Wreck - with KP | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Oct 2020 | |||
I was lucky to climb this when the autumn sun turned the white arête into gold. Great moves, never easy, quite intense and pumpy. Not easy to read, too, some of the hidden holds are hard to find, since there's also next to no chalk in the wall (not that it would be too visible in the white rock). It would be nice if the next aspirant took a little saw to get rid of the branches at the start.
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2910
points
| 9+ | ★★★ Peacemaker - with Markus | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Jun 2020 | |||
Another "project" that went down much too fast for my own taste. And again, it didn't feel at my limit, except maybe clipping the anchor from the moist jugs in the end. I actually wanted to climb above the anchor to get that ridiculous glory jug but slipped off. Leaves a slightly bad taste, but I can do it again whenever I want.
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2902
points
| 9- | ★★ Rocketman - with KP | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Way better than it looks. Nice start into the layback dihedral, then over two bulges to a good rest and a pumpy final section with small holds (I found a good rest just next to the last bolt; without it I wouldn't have made it through).
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2897
points
| 8 | ★ Altweibersommer - with David X | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Apr 2022 | |||
Awkward start, strange bolts in the first half. The upper half is really good face climbing. Hard to read, no chalk at all on the holds. Nice crossover move at the end.
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2896
points
| 8 | ★★ Südostpfeiler - with Markus Benning | 20m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Apr 2022 | |||
Curious rock structure at the start, haven't seen something like this in the Frankenjura before, I think. Crux (for me) before the ledge, then beautiful pockets and jugs along the crack. #lastrouteoftheday
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2895
points
| 8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ WoGü-Kante - with KP | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Aug 2020 | |||
Great route. Delicate climbing along the arête. High second bolt, but felt okay to clip even despite the fact that you have to do it from the one greasy hold in the route. Technical with some hooks and balance moves, and of course the nice crack finish.
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2894
points
| 8+ | ★★ The Dude Abides - with David X | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Aug 2020 | |||
Interesting boulder over the bulge with good moves involving high feet. The rest is quite a bit easier, but enjoyable.
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|||||||||
2891
points
| 8 | ★★ Déjà vue - with thedark | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Apr 2022 | |||
Nice slab to a no-hands rest on the ledge, then powerful through the steep overhang. Fought hard to get to the finishing jug.
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2890
points
| 8+ | ★★ Simons Riss - with Markus Benning | 30m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd May 2021 | |||
We didn't climb the original start, but rather the one of "Weg ins Licht" since the original is hopelessly dirty and easy anyway. If you extend some bolts there, you basically get a perfect line (merge at the third bolt of Simons Riss) without much drag. Almost virgin rock even after almost 20 years. Great technical crack with some nasty jams (well, if you decide to jam), sustained until the end.
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2888
points
| 8+ | ★★★ GoGo - with Tobias Auth | 19m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Aug 2020 | |||
Bouldery start, then two short sections followed by no-hand rests. From there it's endurance with one hard passage. Very nice! Great rock quality and nice moves. Thanks for the belay Tobias Auth, nice to meet you Katrin Bauer!
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2886
points
| 8 | ★ Dritter Bildungsweg - with Markus Benning | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 18th Mar 2022 | |||
Technical slab with small holds.
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|||||||||
2885
points
| 8- | ★ Geierwally - with Alex | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 1st Nov 2023 | |||
High first and especially second bolt. There are options for mobile protection, but you shouldn't sling the loose block on the ledge. ;-) Also, you can quite safely reach the second bolt from the right. Tough moves directly after that bolt, but the real crux comes shortly before the anchor in the steep overhang with small pockets and mediocre feet.
|
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2883
points
| 8- | ★ Halber Hermann - with Harald | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||
Surprisingly good dihedral climbing, a little cheeky chimney technique helps in the middle part. Steep towards the anchor in the cave on jugs.
|
|||||||||
2883
points
| 8+ | ★★ Roter Teufel - with Daniel | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||
One move wonder crux after the easy start, depends on if you can pull on the small, bumpy crimp and maintain body tension to get up to the pocket. The 8- that follows is still demanding, both technical and sustained. Good line and rock quality, too.
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2881
points
| 8+ | ★★ Red Sonja - with Ellen | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jul 2020 | |||
Technical start into the overhang, pumpy and slightly dynamic crux (via a tiny sidepull crimp to a strangely shaped hold); tried the dynamic move from the wrong foothold and almost fell off, somehow caught my weight in the jug and tried again. Spotted the right foothold (tickmarks …) and lunged for the hold. Cool vertical slot for the right hand afterwards, lets you rest a bit. The last bulge before the merger with "Batman" is still challenging, lots of possibilities, so I chose the wrong direction at first and almost fell off again, somehow heaving my ass back down to the resting slot. Tried again slightly on the left and succeeded. Tough onsight!
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|||||||||
2877
points
| 8+ | ★★ Road to Perdition - with KP | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 30th Jun 2020 | |||
Certainly not done quite often, because it starts from the ledge after the first pitch of "Schiefer Riss". Nevertheless some tick marks, but the rock was extremely rough. Slightly brittle in some places. A technical slab is followed by a powerful overhang. The second to last bolt is hard to clip, had to climb above it before I could do it, but that's fine. Still hard to get to the anchor from there, took me some time. Worthwhile.
|
|||||||||
2877
points
| 8+ | ★ Geisterspiele - with KP | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Tue 30th Jun 2020 | |||
Short boulder route. Hard passage right at the first bolt over a small two-finger pocket (a mono for those endowed with thicker fingers), then strenuous over the bulge, juggy finish.
|
|||||||||
2874
points
| 8- | ★★ Gerstner Gedenkweg - with KP | 40m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Sep 2023 | |||
Started via "Direkte Talwand" to be able to do it in one pitch. The difficulty is the second pitch starting from the diagonal ledge of "Alte Talwand". Great moves, quite sustained and not easy to read. Good footwork necessary, too.
|
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2862
points
| 8+ | ★★ Laser - with Tobias | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th May 2020 | |||
Brilliant vertical bath tub bridging and stemming. Reachy move to a crimp from the faint crack (I jumped to it …), followed by said technique fest in the "dihedral", and an endurance finish on good, but hard to see holds.
|
|||||||||
2862
points
| 8+ | ★★★ Membrane - with Gunter | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | |||
Felt more like a flash. Didn't remember anything from seven years ago. Climbed a more direct variant today that Matze told me about, which makes the top part a good deal easier, but it strays a bit from the original line and even leaves out a bolt (which is out of reach to the left), although it's the more direct line from the ledge to the anchor. Still fantastic.
|
|||||||||
2861
points
| 8+ | ★★ Painkiller - with Markus | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th May 2020 | |||
Great wall climbing on small holds. Sustained up to the anchor! #secondascent
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|||||||||
2861
points
| 8+ 8/8+ | ★★ Tatort - with Tobias | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 20th Oct 2020 | |||
Technical passage at the second bolt, then a steep bulge, holdless at first sight. Went around slightly right, then up to a hole with a good sidepull. The finish is quite hard to decipher, in the end I just crimped hard on everything I could grab. Not exactly an ideal #warmup.
|
|||||||||
2859
points
| 8+ 8+ to 9- | ★★ Immerwährende Veränderung - with Alex | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Apr 2020 | |||
Despite the name, there's no choss in this route. On the contrary, good rock and nice moves, still quite rough. First crux at the bulge with slopy crimpers, second is finding your way through the overhang on smallish holds. Closer to 8+ than 9- I guess.
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|||||||||
2859
points
| 9- | ★★ Schön Wetter - with mb | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 10th Oct 2022 | |||
Still had the first pre-clipped. The moves to the first jug are terribly sketchy. From there it's actually quite nice, with some sidepulls, a really deep pocket to rest before the final bulge, and a cool heel hook on the left to reach a pinch before pulling up to the jugs at the anchor.
|
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2853
points
| 8- | Solleder Gedenkweg - with Harald | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Wed 19th Jul 2023 | |||
A great line, visually, just a long traverse along a thin "handrail" ledge below a roof. Unfortunately, there are lots of loose bits, it's always dusty because nobody climbs it, and the book at the belay is also gone. The first 10 or so meters of the traverse are manageable, then suddenly the footholds disappear. There's one section where you can jam your hand into the back of the narrow ledge, but it feels like you're jamming between sand and a bowl of cornflakes, material is chipping away with each readjustment of the hand. The next 2 meters are tough as hell and I only barely made it by hooking with the left foot onto the ledge and crossing over extremely far to a brittle jug.
|
|||||||||
2851
points
| 8- | ★ Alfred Drexel Gedenkweg - with mantra | 25m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 14th Jul 2023 | |||
Yet another great line here. Shares the crux with "Brutkasten", then draws to the right below the roof and up directly in good rock to the anchor of "Noriswand".
|
|||||||||
2848
points
| 8 8+ | ★★ Stück für Stück - with Markus Benning | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Nov 2021 | |||
Cold start, but not as tough as anticipated, felt rather like 8. The actual route from the ledge is really good. The bolt distances are spicy but reasonable (but probably a bit more awkward for small people as usual for routes by Stefan Löw), the climbing is top notch face climbing on pockets, crimps and edges. Three no-hand rests (two of them kneebars in the little caves)! #warmup
|
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2846
points
| 8- ~8- | ★ Every Turn Is a Sign of Fear - with Daniel | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 17th Mar 2024 | |||
Short but not too bad. Decent rock, good finish.
|
|||||||||
2843
points
| 8+ | ★★ Fisherman’s friend - with KP | 30m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 8th Mar 2020 | |||
Slightly forced line directly through the pocketed upper wall, but good climbing. Thin! Small pockets, delicate moves.
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2839
points
| 8- | ★ Killepitsch - with Markus Benning | 18m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
Weird cemented blocks in the finishing crack. Probably they were put there as a warning system; when they're gone, the whole upper part of the wall might tumble towards the valley.
|
|||||||||
2839
points
| 8- | ★ YOLO - with Harald | 14m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | ||||
Another one with a cold start on small holds in good rock followed by easier slab climbing.
|
|||||||||
2838
points
| 8- | ★★ Czech Attack - with Ellen | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th May 2023 | |||
Nice wall climbing, quite flowy and homogeneous. Challenging until the end.
|
|||||||||
2837
points
| 8- | ★ Nordwestwand, linker Ausstieg - with Harald | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 26th May 2023 | |||
Close one! Set out for a reachy move above the second bolt and had just reached the lip of the jug with my fingertips when I felt my foot slip off the hold and I started barndooring. Luckily, the jug was as good as I had hoped it to be and I could stabilize myself pretty quickly. Good climbing on mediocre pockets.
|
|||||||||
2836
points
| 8 | ★ Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg Direktausstieg - with Ellen | 6m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Oct 2021 | |||
Short but exposed second pitch to RHG, directly through the overhanging crack in the huge slab lying on top of the tower. The hardest part was not to step on the rusty pegs in the crack. No real crack technique needed, there are holds! ;-) No additional protection needed, the bolt sits in the right place.
|
|||||||||
2830
points
| 8 | Schwer isd's - with Markus Benning | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | |||
Short wall to a no-hands rest on the ledge, then steep jugs on the fridge-sized block. It seems like the whole chunk has moved down a few centimeters over the last years, judging from the absence of lichen and broken rock shards between the block and the rest of the wall. That seems to have caused the smaller block on top to become loose. If you pull hard on it, it tilts towards you … this could end deadly. From there, it's quite a hard boulder with high heel hooks and kneebars left and right. Once you've clipped the fourth bolt, it's basically over but the moss keeps the rock damp, so it was still a challenge …
|
|||||||||
2828
points
| 9- | ★★ Sieben Züge bis zur Crux - with Ellen | 18m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||
Great route with a distinct crux (what do you expect with this name?) and beautiful, slightly overhanging climbing on jugs à la Roter Fels in the upper part. Solved the crux by walking up (strenuously) into a high undercling and bumping to the jug.
|
|||||||||
2824
points
| 8 | ★★ Grenzbereich - with thedark | 16m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | |||
Cool wall climbing with sharp pockets. Thin fingers are helpful, probably hard if you can't crimp the thin pocket! After the quasi-no-hands rest, it's much easier, but still smooth.
|