Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Discoteca | ||||||
| 6c+ |
★★ Ali shuffle
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
Got on this as the sun hit. Got to second last bolt on onsight. Slimpers at crux felt awful by then. Battled to anchors.
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| 6b |
★★ Disc jockey
| 27m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
|
Tricky slab crux
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| 5c |
★★ Il buttafuori
| 26m | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice juggy route
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| Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Acquafraggia | ||||||
| La Mezzera | ||||||
| 7a |
★★ Rufus
| |||||
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Hadnt learnt my lesson about the sun and baked. Nice from flake up but no idea how to establish. Would make a nice grade 25 project at home.
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| 6b |
★★ Pomi
— 2 attempts
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
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Would have been nicer in the shade, super slippery, quite technical
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| 6a |
★★ La Capanna del Blondi
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
A v1 mantle start then spaced bolts, generally ok to get to except the one that protects the crux
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| Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Albigna | ||||||
| Spazzacaldeira | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Buttamigiu
2
5c+
35
Kind of did half of this in our confusion
3
6a+
30
Hard moves getting to belay well above bolt.
4
6b+
50
Used a nice kneebar low, and found the hardest move up stepping off a small pinnacle.
5
4a
45
A route takes off directly above where you top out that would make a good link up | 160m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Apart from route confusion which seems to afflict many people who start on Lascimili and end up on this, Pitches 3 and 4 were great. The bolting is weird, near good trad placements then run out. Route deserves more traffic. Best to walk off. The connecting cord at anchors is very tatty and needs replacing-Especially getting to top of pitch 3 where it appears some people aid on the long bit of rope hanging down. A single set of cams 0.3 to #2 helpful.
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| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Cranna | ||||||
| Lower Sector | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Passaggio Chiave P1
1
6b+
20
Nice climbing. We came to the crag because its rain sheltered, but it was a Saturday and half of chiavenna seemed to join us, then the sun came out and the temps went up 10 degrees. It was time to leave. | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6a |
★★★ Pergola
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice route, anchors at full stretch though.
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| 6a |
★ Poldo
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
|
Tricky finish if you are short, but good
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| Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Vho | ||||||
| Fiabe per Samantha | ||||||
| 6a ~6a+ |
★ Madame Babette
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Too run out for me chickened out 2 bolts from top.Had to bring in the reinforcement. The slab dyno also seems a bit hard for 6a but may be a height thing. Large wet patch that did require some foot holds in.
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| 6b |
★ Nik
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Missed transition from overhung to slab first go. Capped by large roof so dry, but only one bolt with captive ring for an anchor.
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| Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Vho | ||||||
| Superleo | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Cappuccino
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
|
On of the drier routes today ( first pitch) , and unlike the 10m boulder climb, Fipanza we found this one pretty easy
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| Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Vho | ||||||
| Galleria | ||||||
| 6b |
★ Fipanza
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
|
Took Dave and I about 4 goes each to do this, both different..6 b feels like a font grade, it was very bouldery. Climbing on road infrastructure, but it was dry
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| Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ||||||
| Parking | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★ Assessore
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
Probably my favourite. A couple of tricky spots.
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| 6c |
Nuevo C
| 25m | ||||
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Well I top roped through the crux with a high first clip, though took a couple of goes. Feels a bit contrived away from some slightly better holds.
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| 5c |
★ Sindaco
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
Back to granite slabbing. Ok, a little wet at the top only
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| 6b |
Consigliere
| 12m | Average | |||
|
Easy, then I think you are meant to use the arete, Ndseam but there’s an easier crack to the right so who knows?
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| Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Sottosassa | ||||||
| 6a |
★ Diedro Gabrielli
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
The bottom half was quite good, then a few mantles.
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| 6b |
★ Leviti crack
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice enough, had the jamming gloves on
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| 6a+ |
I bocce del paes
| 17m | ||||
|
Ok, but not sure what was “ in” so did bridge into crack on opposite wall
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| 6a+ |
★ Derok
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
A bit dirty, but very 3 d climbing, harder than 6a.
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| 6c+ |
★★ E il diedro
— 3 attempts
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Had to stray onto the 7a to get the bottom section clean which included a full on dead point. Super hard moves. The second half dihedral was more grade 21.
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| Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
| Landro Settore 4 | ||||||
| 6a ~6a |
★ Gamaze
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Quite easier, and far easier than route to left.
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| 6a+ ~6b |
★★ Baum
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Way harder than the 6 a+ to the right, which I have take liberty of down grading while upgrading this- took me about 10 minutes to commit to standing up off the ledge.
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| 7a |
★★ Die Langweilige
1
6a
18m
Greasy
2
7a
18m
Had to rest when pulling roof. I think I was doing it the hard left hand way, but maybe I was just weak. The rest of the route was fine. | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6b ~6b+ |
★★ Sandmännchen
| 32m | ★ Good | |||
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I thought I was on the 6c, and it didn’t feel that far off.
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| 6b |
★★ Hexentanz P1
1
6b
8m
Too close to route to left making it escapable at crux (contrived direct, and hard for 6 b) but I did it both ways to cover the bases. | 8m | ||||
| 6a |
★★ Kinderspiel
1
5b
8m
2
6a
9m
Unfortunately the bolt matrix on this wall detracts from the climbing, I followed this middle pitch | 17m | ||||
| Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
| Landro Settore 3 | ||||||
| 5b |
★★ Nigge-Riss
| 24m | ★ Good | |||
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Ok, but always sad to see a bolted crack.
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| 6b+ ~6b |
★★ Nigge-Kante
| 24m | ★ Good | |||
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I think it’s even soft for 6b, compared to other routes here.
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| Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Sass Dlacia | ||||||
| A | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Placca motoria
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Our start to Chernobyl. A good warm up due to some nice rest stances between the pocket pulling.
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| 6b+ |
★★ Chernobyl
1
5c
28
Did PM instead then continued up past final bolt of this to belay
2
6a+
30
Go straight up to roof past 2 bolts then hand traverse right under roof ( rock fax topo quite poor for route)
3
6a+
29
After exiting the short chimney at the second bolt I missed the next 2 bolts which were off to the right and got back to one above them, exciting! Thought this pitch was also 6 b
4
6b
30
More nice climbing on some old bolts
5
6b+
23
Fantastic steep finale. | 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Started on PM as first pitch. Liked all the pitches. Would have done more routes here but sun had hit has by the time we abseiled. 60 m rope needed minimum.
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| Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Città dei Sassi | ||||||
| Sasso Gabriel Climbing | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★ DNA
| 19m | ★ Good | |||
|
I think this was the one I was on, as had no guidebook. Was good from half way though a bit dirty in places, but at least it wasn’t polished. Mucked up bouldery start to hidden hold.
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| 6a+ |
★★★ Tizi
| 19m | Crap | |||
|
Polished rubbish. Feet slipped numerous times and the bolts are spaced enough as is.
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| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Parte Oscura della Luna | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Indian Summer
1
6a
40m
We started on first bolt of Legoland then joined Indian summer. Quite cold at the start.
2
6a
40m
3
6a
30m
I liked this pitch the best, straight up on amazing pockets
4
5c
30m
Didn’t feel any easier than the rest of the route.
5
6a+
20m
You traverse right off the belay for about 4m, topo implied otherwise
6
6a+
20m
Quite a steep crack, some good moves.
7
6a
20m
The corner crack | 200m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Pretty nice route, especially for a hot day. Seems like Rockfax digital is out of date for access and descent. The descent to the left has a washed away gully after a downclimb to contend with, but I guess we got to go canyoning as well as climb.
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| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Palla del Guide | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Via Gino Bellumat
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 200m | ||||
|
Pleasant and fairly low stress outing on a hot day getting used to altitude and embracing life whilst Preserving knees. Well conceived route, reasonably bolted. Linked 2 and 3 and 4 and 5.
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| Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Comano Terme | ||||||
| 6b+ ~6c |
★★ Delta
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Greased off the start, which was quite reachy first go. Didn’t want to have to repeat so after getting through it second go fought my way to anchors. Maybe 21 if you do laps on it to warm up but hard onsighting
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| 6a+ ~6b |
★ Dritdreiciodi
| 16m | ★ Good | |||
|
Grade 20 I reckon, unless you Mc Dougall right badly. A bit polished
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| 6a |
★★ Gigliola
| 18m | ||||
|
Good warm up as advertised
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| Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
| Sarche Piccolo Dain Parete del Centrale | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Moon bears
- with
dave
1
5-
lead by
dave
Slightly off route but got there in the end
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
6
A nice pitch that traverses leftwards via tufa features
7
4
8
6-
Reachy crux
9
5-
Finished our 2.5 L water by the top | 250m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Very hot, we tried to create a breeze by climbing fast, about 3 hours. Linked 1+2, 3+4, 6+7. May the memory of the FA live on.
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| Tue 5th Sep 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
| 5c |
★★ Pestacolo
| 20m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
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Nice enough, getting used to the rock. 3 pm too early for shade, improved at 4.
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| 6c |
★★ Il buon caffè
1
4b
10m
Warm up he stemming muscles
2
6c
12m
Burly but ok once I had found some of the holds | 22m, 14 | ||||
| 5a |
★★ Fantaghirò
1
5a
10
Warm up | 10m, 13 | ||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Via Per Stefano Vidi
| 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
More nice pockets
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| 6c+ |
★★ Number one
| 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Pocketssss, just lovely and the new shoes are feeling better
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| Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Brenta Alta | ||||||
| Crag Raffael and Natalie Vidi | ||||||
| 6b |
Bonet
| 27m | Average | |||
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Bouldery start, not impressed by rock until up high. Great scenery though.
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| 6b |
★★ Brigot
| 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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The rock is a bit ordinary down low, but excellent movement, varied climb, technical in places and pumpy start. Generally overhanging.
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| 6b |
Pilotu
| 25m | Don't Bother | |||
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Sharp start and moves off ledge have cratering potential. Pulled up stick clip for ledge protection
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| Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Val d'Algone | ||||||
| 6c |
★★ Lo scorpione
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below
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| 7a |
★★★ Toleranza zero
— 2 attempts
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Started up in new climbing shoes and had to swap at the hands free rest, but still managed to fall off after at mid crux. Worked out a better sequence for the mid crux for height. on sighted the start and end cruxes.
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| 6b+ |
★ Il nido de ragno
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice varied route, a little bit of dodgy rock up top
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| 6a |
★ Tuc tuc
| 15m | ||||
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Hardest climb of the day because the jug to get to anchors was so greasy it was near impossible to hang onto, and I couldn’t waste our mistaken purchase of 15 euro friction lab chalk on it! After a few parties had piled a bucket of chalk on it became less greasy
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| 6b |
★★ L'unico vizio de me fiol
| 15m | ||||
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A bit dusty, hard final moves
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| Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Breguzzo | ||||||
| 5+ |
★ Postelari
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
|
More interesting than appearances suggest
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| 6a+ |
★ Prenzip
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Some nice pockets, but just too many ways to go
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| 6b+ |
★★ Mitildi
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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I thought this was as hard as the 6c, nice varied route. Having the anchor draw on definitely helped
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| 6c |
★★ Bagoi
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!
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| Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Croz de le Niere | ||||||
| Formica | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Volion curva
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Liked this one up the pocketed wall. One reachy sequence I had to figure out.
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| 6a |
★ Dolci creature
— 2 attempts
| 15m | Average | |||
|
Perhaps it’s the humidity, I said “ take “ at first bolt and came down while the people on the via ferrata under the start proceeded to get out of the way, but that’s because I felt there was a potential to slip on top of them. Felt the climbing was kind of forced, but some nice sequences between
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| 5b |
★★ Il pigro
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Pleasant, about grade 17
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| 6a |
★★ Pilastro Moana
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Got spat off the start first go not a good warm up start, limestone feels so slippery compared to granite
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| Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Ishoel | ||||||
| Litjhælvet | ||||||
| 6- ~6 |
★★ Trollfeit
| 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fun route out over the water, felt like 19, so may just be a conversion factor issue with thecrag
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| 7- |
★ Solo Smaker Bedre
| 12m | ||||
|
Dave told me to go left, right worked for me
|
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| 6+ |
★★ Nådeløs som Cola
| 12m | ||||
| 7- |
★ Jørgens Travers
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| 6+ |
★★ Kongla
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Routes squeezed in a bit, but it was a good work out
|
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| 5+ |
★★ Action Direct
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Quite a pumpy introduction
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| 7- |
★★ Harald & Runes Variant
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Lovely setting by the river and nice rock, and it was dry despite the ground running with water.
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| Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
| Hanshallaren Hans | ||||||
| 6b ~6a+ |
★★ Trykkokeren
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
|
Compared to some of the other routes more 6a territory
|
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| 6b+ |
Akvarell
— 2 attempts
| 16m | Average | |||
|
Took 2 goes at the start, did not think this climb flowed well
|
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| 6b |
★ Alfa krull
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice varied route
|
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| 5c |
★ Limpa
| 20m | Average | |||
|
Several flakes with x on them, able to climb around but needs proper cleaning
|
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| 6a |
★★ Joris
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
The topos in the climb Norway book are hopeless, just random lines thrown onto the rough section of wall.
|
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| Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
| Sandmælen Midtre | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Trollollol
— 2 attempts
| 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The crux is quite tricky, and the way I solved it was chalkless. Interesting route
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| 6a+ |
★★ I siget
| 38m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The start was a bit wet and awkward, improved after that, nice flake and route harder than the corner to left
|
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| 6b+ ~6b |
★★ Svenneprøven
| 37m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
|
Doesn’t look like the direct start has been done for a few years, the first 2 bolts covered in vegetation. A little tricky at start, the rest is a straightforward corner
|
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| Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
| Sandmælen Venstre | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★ Come back
| 16m, 6 | Average | |||
|
The climbing didn’t really flow, largely due to bolt position.
|
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| 6a ~6a+ |
★★ Posible nick
| 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Without a triple rack to weigh me down I should have floated up this but it had me puffing.
|
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| Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Bormeister Fausa
| 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
|
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| 6a+ |
★★★ Drømmen om Michaela
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Much easier when we got on the right route.
|
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| 6c/c+ |
★ Mono Bongo
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
|
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| 5c |
★ Fjell og vidde klatring
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
|
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| Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Vesterålen | ||||||
| Trollskåla Overhenget | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Dieder
| 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Doesn’t climb much like a dihedral, lovely wave pocketed rock, grade 18 at least
|
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| Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Vesterålen | ||||||
| Trollskåla Venstre | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Sofaruta
| 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Grade 17, very 3D and quite steep
|
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| 6a+ |
Obelix
| 25m | Average | |||
|
Grade 20. Stupid finish.
|
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| 6a |
★ Mye botanikk
| 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
The grade conversion seems out here, 19.
|
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| Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | ||||||
| Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Holoholahoy
| 15m | ||||
|
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…
|
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| 6+ |
★★ Escalade feminine
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
|
Is a 7- in guide but wasn’t too bad ( since I backed up piton with a preplaced long sling.
|
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| 7 |
★★ Den Lille
— 2 attempts
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
|
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| 6- |
★ Jepperuta
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Some steep but good holds
|
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| 7 ~7- |
★ Adjöss och tack för fisken
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
|
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| Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
| Main B | ||||||
| 7- |
Trim de eldre
— 2 attempts
| 15m | ||||
|
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.
|
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| 6 |
★ Langtrur
| 25m, 21 | ★ Good | |||
|
One long pitch. A bit discontinuous
|
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| Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
| Main C | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Dr. Bruce Banner
| 7m | ★ Good | |||
|
Squeezed it in as the rain came. I should know better than to get on 6 m routes. Found it harder than the 6+ route to the right as it is Bouldery rather than pumpy
|
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| Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
| Brattberget | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★ Trusa på utsida
— 2 attempts
| 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!
|
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| 6- |
★ Batman
| 13m | ★ Good | |||
|
The rock looks bad but nothing came off. A steep jug haul
|
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| 6+ |
Ironman
| 12m | Average | |||
|
The good bit is quite short
|
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| Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
| Main C | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Flygende C
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Did it without the right chalked up flake and went direct over bolts. Climbed ok but the nearby crack and bolt placements made it feel contrived
|
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| 6+ |
★★ Hulken
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.
|
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