Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Europe Switzerland Alpen Berner Oberland Thunersee Lehn Rosengarten | |||||||
6b | ★★ Hey Joe | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Sep 2004 | |||
Awesome folded gneiss - like gritstone in parts
|
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7a | ★★★ Wackelstein | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Sep 2004 | |||
Another cool OS
|
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6b | ★★★ Troya | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Sep 2004 | |||
Fantastically varied with big flake. One of the best 6's around
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Tabaira Fantasía | |||||||
6a | ★★ Verano del 97 - with Sammi, Christopher Glastonbury | 28m | ★ Good | Tue 28th Feb 2017 | |||
Good climbing, but too runout at this grade I reckon with cruxes just before you can clip. Might be more like 6b? Sneakers.
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Joan - with Sammi, Christopher Glastonbury | 27m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Feb 2017 | |||
Ascent of the trip! Sneaker action maximum. Sick boy today. More drugs, drinks at the bar, then bed.
|
|||||||
6a | ★★★ Champagne para todos (L1+L2) - with Sammi, Christopher Glastonbury | 36m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Feb 2017 | |||
Classic at the grade on bullet verdon-style limestone features. Sneakers.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Pantano Master | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Tururú que no te vi - with jjobrien, Sammi | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | |||
Worth doing for the incredible, drippy, rock architecture. But the slab, oh god, the slab.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Pantano Chorreras | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Long Dong Jhon (Long Dong John) - with Sammi | 38m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th Mar 2017 | |||
I am struggling to think of a better 6b+ sport route. Long, consistent, interesting blobs and tufas the whole way. The opposite of a grey slab.
|
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7a+ 7a | ★★ Magic line - with Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th Mar 2017 | |||
Okay, so this was very wet, as it turned out. Like, running with water in several sections. Which made this very, very challenging and my best onsight of the trip for sure. Every technique in the book to get up this - jams, chimneying, arm bars, leg locks, mega stemming, cartoon slippery-feet. Final route of the trip and what a way to end. Thanks Chulilla. Peace out.
|
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7b | ★★★ Sendero Luminoso (right-ext) (Sendero Luminoso L1+L2 (right-direct)) - with Sammi | 50m, 30 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th Mar 2017 | |||
I waaaay ran out of draws. Took 20 and needed 30. Serious backcleaning action. The final transition from tufa chimneying to upper slab top-out was ... engaging!
|
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7a | ★★★ Sendero Luminoso (Sendero Luminoso L1) - with Sammi | 37m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Mar 2017 | |||
A bit tricky/techy and pumpy in the first 15m before easing off a bit on bigger holds and steep ground. The extension is a no brainer - awesome!
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★ Pim Pam Pons (L1) - with Sammi | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Mar 2017 | |||
Tufa slab! Very unique indeed, quite incredible.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Pantano Oasis | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Gárgola (L1+L2) (Gargola L2) - with jjobrien, Sammi | 27m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | |||
Some very touch and go moves fully stretching to tips underclings.
|
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6b | ★★ Gárgola (L1) - with jjobrien, Sammi | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | |||
Was far from dry, but pretty cool at the grade on tufa blobs up a corner and arete.
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Sendero sinuoso - with jjobrien | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 17th Feb 2017 | |||
Crag very busy, hopped on as the warm up. 8°C and I was battling finger freeze the whole way up.
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ Magnetoresistencia gigante (Magnetorresistencia) - with Sammi | 35m | ★ Good | Thu 23rd Feb 2017 | |||
Took a week for this to not have a party on it. Super long, kinda awkward, with a definite ledge-fall possibility on that first ledge.
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Miguel Gómez (Miguel Gomez) - with Sammi | 27m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Feb 2017 | |||
Pretty interesting wall climbing.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Los pagafantas - with Sammi | 24m, 11 | ★ Good | Mon 20th Feb 2017 | |||
Stout!
|
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6c | ★★ Qué hago jugando a la petanca con este cacho de tranca - with Sammi | 18m | Average | Thu 2nd Mar 2017 | |||
Slaaaaaaabs.
|
|||||||
6c+ | ★★ El Chamarilero (Chamarlliero) - with Sammi | 28m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Mar 2017 | |||
One of the better routes on this section of wall. Crux comes at you in the very last section. Balancy and techo.
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★ Richi - with Sammi, jjobrien | 27m | ★ Good | Sat 25th Feb 2017 | |||
Brutal hard start, and then another butt hard move above a ledge - like most of the other 6's here!
|
|||||||
7a | ★★ El Oasis - with Sammi | 27m | ★ Good | Sun 26th Feb 2017 | |||
Nails!
|
|||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Chevo (Xevo) - with jjobrien | 29m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Feb 2017 | |||
Really cool! Somehow felt like climbing a Coolum route, but vertical. No grabbing and pulling on holds, it's all pushing, underclinging, sidepulls.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Pantano Algarrobo | |||||||
7a | ★★ Top of the rock - with Sammi, jjobrien | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Feb 2017 | |||
The best easier route I've tried here. Mostly big holds, cool tufa-flow formations, super interesting the whole way.
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★ Sin pena ni gloria - with jjobrien, Sammi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Mar 2017 | |||
I'm learning everything feels hard regardless of grade. That being the case, you might as well just get on the really hard things.
|
|||||||
7c | ★★★ Hipotermia - with Sammi | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Feb 2017 | |||
A shorter route and more bouldery. Fairly on the whole way. [2]
|
|||||||
8a | ★★ Plantea Namek - with Sammi | 28m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Feb 2017 | |||
Managed to put it together - psyched! Time for pizza! [3]
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Los incrédulos - with jjobrien, Sammi | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | |||
Superb sequences. Double-gaston action. [3]
|
|||||||
7c | ★★★ Nibelungalo (Nivelúngalos) - with jjobrien | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 19th Feb 2017 | |||
Pretty incredible route. Starting to feel a bit like a climber. Come on endurance! [4]
|
|||||||
7c+ | ★★★ El diablo viste de Prana - with Sammi, jjobrien, Christopher Glastonbury | 28m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Feb 2017 | |||
Had to Sharma-scream on the crux, but managed to hang on for the ride. Siiiick route. [2]
|
|||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★ Abril 4x4 - with Sammi | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Feb 2017 | |||
Reminded me of a Rifle route on blocky limestone. Had to drop the clutch at the top, lol.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Pantano Balconcito | |||||||
7c+ 8a | ★★★ Tequila sunrise - with Sammi, jjobrien, Christopher Glastonbury | 38m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 1st Mar 2017 | |||
Perfect tufa to a buffed-shiny face crux, then pumpy headwall. 7c+/8a in latest guide. Regardless, a super pitch of climbing. Great recommendation from Rhys. [2]
|
|||||||
8a | ★★★ El bufa - with Sammi | 38m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 4th Mar 2017 | |||
This route climbed so much differently than I imagined. 40m enduro routes are usually sprints for me, but with this one I had to move slowly, milking every rest, getting back just enough juice to tackle the next section. Nothing on the 20m headwall is overly hard but my god it is sustained. Sam froze to death on the belay. [4]
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Pantano Pared Blanca / Monte De Venus | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Periclónica (L1) (Periclonica L1) - with Sammi | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Feb 2017 | |||
One yucky move down low negotiating a sloping ledge, but made up for with a stunning broccoli slab with huge pockets in the upper third. I hate slabs, but this was a classic.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Pantano Cañaveral | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ El gran dinosaurio blanco (L1) (Gran Dinosaurio Blanco L1) - with Sammi | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Mar 2017 | |||
Okay, so there is a shitty crimpy section at half height you have to get through, but then it is seriously stellar (Kalymnos quality) climbing to the anchors (and beyond). The best of this grade in Chulilla.
|
|||||||
7a | ★ Kaplan (L1) - with Sammi | 30m | Average | Mon 6th Mar 2017 | |||
This is obviously pretty popular. I found it hard going the whole way. [2]
|
|||||||
7a | ★★ Ansia (L1) - with Sammi | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Mar 2017 | |||
Cool "go for it" moves up the face/arete up top, with the anchor just slightly higher than you want it to be.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Comunidad Valenciana Valencia Chulilla Chulilla Town Pared de Enfrente Tierra de nadie | |||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Dumbo Love - with jjobrien | 22m | ★ Good | Thu 16th Feb 2017 | |||
Got quite pumped on the phat slopers.
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★ Terrenos Royos (Terrenks Royos) - with jjobrien | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | Thu 16th Feb 2017 | |||
Route #1 of the trip. New rope, shoes, belay device, harness (for John). Miracle we survived.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Santa Linya Futbolín | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ els iluminati | 22m | ★ Good | Fri 8th Nov 2013 | |||
The bright orange rock on this looks and is quite amazing. Cool cracks and features, and a lil bit powerful.
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ red dusk | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Nov 2013 | |||
Looks like pox from the ground but climbs really well. Bang on for 6b+.
|
|||||||
7b | ★★ cólera | 28m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Nov 2013 | |||
Two hard moves, jug. Two hard moves, jug. Fun.
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★ spanglish | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Nov 2013 | |||
One night, two girls: English, Spanglish.
|
|||||||
7c | ★ opium | 25m | ★ Good | Fri 8th Nov 2013 | |||
Hardest thing I've done since ruining my shoulder. Felt pretty good - I think the rehab is working. Route was cool - very thin crimping start to a rest ledge. Then an overhanging crimp ladder for about 6 bolts. I just held it together.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Terradets Monsetes | |||||||
6a+ | sn-4 | Don't Bother | Thu 14th Nov 2013 | ||||
Well I did you a service and cleaned perhaps half the plants off this. Nearly every clip was scary. Worst route on the wall, but it's done now.
|
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6a+ | ★ sn-3 | 25m | ★ Good | Mon 11th Nov 2013 | |||
Sneakers. This tweaked my shoulder worse than the 7c+ did.
|
|||||||
6a | ★★ experiencia positiva | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Nov 2013 | |||
This is a Dani Andrada route. Say no more. Awesome. Seriously. Best 6a I've done this trip.
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ monsetes | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Nov 2013 | |||
Very interesting, and not a romp through the crux. This wall reminds me of the Grampians somehow. Rock texture and slopey horizontals.
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ sn-2 | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Nov 2013 | |||
6 year wedding anniversary today. Brushing and prepping this route was my gift. I am a rare husband indeed.
|
|||||||
6c | ★★ sn-1 | 25m | ★ Good | Thu 14th Nov 2013 | |||
I've done easier 7a's for sure. You're cruising along fairly happily and then you get bit. Proper cranking required at top.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Terradets Paret de les Bruixes | |||||||
7c+ | ★★ Mallorca es Funky | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Nov 2013 | ||||
Head was just not in the game today - I was not psyched. I mentally talked myself out of this with every move. I'm sure there's a lesson to be learned here. It's probably something like "You can't be on every day". [3]
|
|||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Orient | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 11th Nov 2013 | |||
Didn't have a stack of energy but just squeaked it in. No moves individually feel hard but hell - putting it all together. Feels like a monster. [3]
|
|||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Energia Positiva | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Nov 2013 | |||
Climbed really well in the death sun. Found a sneaky kneebar up the top thank god. No mistakes on the Dr Chris Coghill memorial crimps at the finish.
|
|||||||
7b+ | ★★ Tarambana | ★ Good | Mon 18th Nov 2013 | ||||
Bit of a change from the other day. Wet, cold, single digits. Had to give this one everything. Goppy.
|
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7b | ★★★ Penya Xunga | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Nov 2013 | |||
This was my warm up, and I got plenty warm. Especially up top where it turns into a Blue Mountains sandstone crimpfest.
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Derribos Arias | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Nov 2013 | ||||
Happy to come away with this today.
|
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7b | ★★★ Jam Session | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 11th Nov 2013 | |||
Blazing sun - my eyes actually hurt. It was probably the reflection from the polished holds. I found this one easier than Pasta sin Agua 7a+, but Sam definitely didn't. Shows what I know.
|
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7a+ | ★★ Pasta Sin Agua | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Nov 2013 | |||
Nails! Great though. Footers are polished to a high sheen.
|
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7a+ | ★★ L'ansia | 23m, 10 | ★ Good | Fri 15th Nov 2013 | |||
I said I wouldn't do this Adam! End of day, emptying the tank. Yep, I reckon this is harder than the lot of 'em.
|
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6a+ | ★ Chasquilla | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Wed 13th Nov 2013 | |||
This has perhaps the most polished footholds I've encountered. I tested this by rubbing my face on one. It felt like a baby kitten.
|
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6c | Tan me Fa L1 | Don't Bother | Wed 13th Nov 2013 | ||||
Ugly, hard, sharp.
|
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Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Vilanova de Meià Zona roca dels Arcs Roca dels Arcs | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ El Senor de los Bordillos - with Sam | 200m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Nov 2013 | |||
8°C when we started at lunchtime. All onsight except for last couple of metres. Ran out of rope and comms trying to link the final three pitches with a 76m rope. Did not work. Downclimbed, built a belay in the middle of the pitch, brought up Sam, it went dark and we simul-rapped off into oblivion. I lost a havaiana. If you find it, please post to Australia, it's my favourite. 3°C back at the car.
|
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Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Camarasa Kuestelon la France | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Tascones lejanos | ★ Good | Wed 6th Nov 2013 | ||||
A big obvious corner. A bit old school feeling for sure. Felt like trad. But with bolts. Not Sam's style - she did well to handle the runouts above ledges
|
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6c | ★★★ Fisura garreta | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Nov 2013 | |||
Amazing pocket climbing around an arching seam. Very good stuff. Hard for 6c!
|
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6c+ | ★ Encantats de la vida | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Nov 2013 | |||
Hell. This looks like piss from the ground. It is not! You've got to pull hard from the first move to the top. Would be 7b at some other crags. 6c+ - the nails grade.
|
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Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Camarasa Marcant Estil | |||||||
7a+ | A Lourdes | 8m | Average | Wed 6th Nov 2013 | |||
A bit testing for the shoulder. Bouldery.
|
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6b | ★★ Del Guillem | 18m | ★ Good | Wed 6th Nov 2013 | |||
One "go for it move". This was recommended by Beth Rodden. So it has to be good.
|
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5c | ★ Rasbides Walk | 16m | ★ Good | Wed 6th Nov 2013 | |||
This crag is the Kangaroo Point of Spain. Belay from - and drop rocks on - your bonnet.
|
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Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Tres Ponts Main Wall Section 3 | |||||||
6b | ★★ Santa Paciencia | 20m | ★ Good | Thu 21st Nov 2013 | |||
Ice-block fingers. Crux up the top.
|
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6b 7c+ | ★ Anthrax | 40m | Average | Thu 21st Nov 2013 | |||
Crux moreso down low.
|
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Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Tres Ponts Main Wall Section 1 | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Unknown 1 L1 | 27m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Nov 2013 | |||
How many high undercling gastons do you want to throw at my shoulder in 5°C? Not cool, Tres Ponts!
|
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Europe Spain Catalunya Central Outer Pyrenees Collegats gramuntill Cine | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Licencia para Escalar | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Nov 2013 | |||
This was pure gold. Literally. As the sun set. Just fantastic. Do this one.
|
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7a | ★ Romao i Julieta | Average | Tue 5th Nov 2013 | ||||
Completely easy romp - until it's not!
|
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6b | ★★ Aníbal el Caníbal | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Nov 2013 | |||
A bit confusing up top, basically for this 6b variant, you swing left and stay clear of the trench.
|
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6a | ★★★ Thor | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Nov 2013 | ||||
Excellent. Double overhangs on great football holds.
|
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6c | ★★★ Come Trankas Ministre | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Nov 2013 | ||||
Oh this was the most perfect 6c project route. If you're at this level, do this route for sure! Builds to a great climax.
|
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5b | ★★ Ultima Sesion | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Nov 2013 | ||||
Nice little haul.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Margalef Cabernet | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ La Expo | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Oct 2010 | |||
Expo alright! Airy and scary! Have your shit together on this one. Very very good though!
|
|||||||
7b | ★★★ Califato Coach | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Oct 2010 | |||
Holllyyy shit this was amazing! 35m long and continually interesting. Not easy.
|
|||||||
6a | ★ L'anormal | Average | Sat 9th Oct 2010 | ||||
Approach pitch
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Margalef Raco De La Finestra | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Magrana | 19m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 6th Oct 2010 | |||
Amazing flowstone!!! DO THIS ROUTE!
|
|||||||
6c | ★★ Okemaka (Okomaka) | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | Wed 6th Oct 2010 | |||
Corner thing, yowza. Awkward!
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★ Entretres | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Wed 6th Oct 2010 | |||
Not the casual warmup I expected
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ Lo Diedre Del Guill | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Oct 2010 | |||
Crazy corner with bottomless start
|
|||||||
7b | ★★ Pitus I Flautes | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | Thu 7th Oct 2010 | |||
Fucking brutal
|
|||||||
7c 7b+ | ★★★ Festa Fotre | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Oct 2010 | |||
Woohoo! Reubs is my lucky charm
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Arboli El Falco | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Lusiernaga de la Noshe | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Oct 2010 | |||
Ballsy OS attempt Sam in the mist. Almost a total white-out. Atmospheric.
|
|||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Haber Pedido Muerte | 36m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 13th Oct 2010 | |||
To last bolt. Good OS attempt Sam in the clouds
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★ Per Tutatis | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Oct 2010 | |||
40m super pitch. Super!
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Riglos Visera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ La Fiesta del Bíceps (Fiesta de los biceps) | 240m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 26th Oct 2010 | |||
One of the world's most famous multipitches. 8 pitches of ever increasing steepness and largeness of holds. If you were only climbing 7a, you would STRUGGLE on this. It's runout and the crux pitch is delicate and quite hard. That said, it's absolutely superb journey.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar Barrio de los Gitanos | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lola | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | Sat 16th Oct 2010 | |||
Waaaay overhyped. Not particularly good at all IMO!
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar Surgencia | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Sayonara baby | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Oct 2010 | |||
Long enduro classic with a halfway rest. [2]
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Coco loco | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Oct 2010 | |||
Wet. Cold. Hardcore. I was shitting myself.
|
|||||||
Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar La Fuente | |||||||
6a | ★ Nique la folle (Nique ta Fiole) | 14m | Sun 12th Sep 2010 | ||||
Good warmup
|
|||||||
5b 5 | ★★ Ta Finde con Tónica (Ta Fiole con tonica) | 15m | Sun 12th Sep 2010 | ||||
Good warmup
|
|||||||
5b 5 | ★★ Route #11 | 14m | Sun 12th Sep 2010 | ||||
5b 5 | ★★ Qué pasa pues, Zagal? (Que pasa pue, Zagal) | 15m, 6 | Sun 12th Sep 2010 | ||||
5b 5 | Los Zorrillos | 15m, 8 | Sun 12th Sep 2010 | ||||
6a | ★ Ardilla | 20m | Sun 12th Sep 2010 | ||||
6a+ | ★ El Ratón (El Raton) | 20m | Sun 12th Sep 2010 |