Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7a | ★★★ DNA
The island's most popular, steep tufa climb. A good introduction to the style. In peak season, come early for a quick onsight or join the crowd until the sun hits. Set: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2001 Maint: 2016 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Mad Max
FA: D. Papageorgiou | 15m, 8 | Merenda | ||
7a | ★★★ Trela
Being less steep than the 7's to the left, Trela still requires a lot of endurance or better, some creative kneebars. Take the rightmost line of the shared start with Punto Caramelo and Tufantastic. [Rope beta: A 70m rope is more than enough for leading and lowering (even though the guidebook says 40m). BUT be aware that stripping QDs might need more rope depending on technique.] Set: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Kastor
Set: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2000 | 15m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Kerveros
Set: Chris Seekircher & Susanne Kolmbauer, 2003 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Melodrama
Pumpy and consistent on blobs and a tufa fin. A good line except for one section at the start where it merges with the route to the left. Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2011 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Viagraman
| 30m, 12 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Maracuja
Tricky, vertical climbing on edges. To the right of El Schuppo. FA: Uwe Eder & Zimmermann | 17m, 5 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
7a | ★★★ Yellow Submarine
Relatively easy first half and a long crux sequence at mid height. | 21m, 7 | Berdorf | ||
7a | ★★★ Ricounet
Tufa blobs lead to a tufa-fin chimney. Set: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ KalyPige
Set: Michel Piola, 2004 | 35m, 17 | Kalymnos | ||
8 | ★★★ Dampfhammer
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1979 | 14m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ Dionysos
Set: Aris Theodoropoulos & Thomas Michaelides, 2000 | 22m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Plan Z dos
| 28m, 13 | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★ Lo Deje To Blanco
| 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ ¡Ay Mamita!
A bit run-out at the top. | 35m, 12 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Ixion
A fantastic route that offers technical climbing with some thin moves in the first half. Sustained second half up the cracks and small tufas. Easier for the tall. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2005 | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena
| 30m, 10 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Xoris Oikto
Set: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7a | ★★ Crisis
A good introduction to the climbing in this sector. Good value for the grade. Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2011 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Purgandus Populus
1
6a
2
7a
About as much technical, vertical, slab as you can put into 40m of rock. Good value for the grade. | 40m, 2, 15 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★ Omero
A technical wall climb. Set: Andrea di Bari & team, 1997 | 22m, 10 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Que pasa neng
| 20m | Margalef | ||
7a | ★★★ Klemeni Omorfia
Set: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7a | ★★ Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou
Set: D. Winkler, J.-B. Winkler & Michel Piola, 2002 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Lolita
Probably not your first 7a. A stiff intro, some intimidating moves on mushrooms and a bouldery crux higher up. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards. Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Las bolas del chino
1
6b+
2
7a
Long climb with an intermediate anchor where the real difficulties start.
Set: Timy | 32m, 2, 16 | Caimari | ||
7a | ★★★ Sendero Luminoso
Amazing and varied climb. A must-do. | 37m | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ Thimari
Set: Guy Albert, Olivier Didon, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 30m, 8 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Takla Makan
This short but relentless Berdorf classic is infamous for its low first crux. FA: Raymond Haupert & Jacques Welter, 1984 Set: Jeannot Kartheiser, 1984 | 15m, 6 | Berdorf | ||
7a | ★★★ Poema de Roca (L1) | 23m, 9 | El Chorro | ||
7a | ★★★ Brigadistak
Thin and techy on great quality, vertical rock. | 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
6c+/7a | ★★★ Fun and Fuck
Pumpy route with a couple of small cruxes. Set: Remy & partners, 2017 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Top of the rock
Very polished start with insecure clipping positions. The climbing improves significantly after bolt 3. | 30m, 13 | Chulilla | ||
6c+ - 7a+ | ★★★ Kyparissi
Guidebooks 6c+/7a+, 8a.nu consensus 6c+/7a. Set: D. Stravogenis, 2005 | 15m, 7 | Kyparissi | ||
7a | ★★★ La Vagoneta
Use the left-hand ladder to start. | 20m | Tenerife | ||
7a | ★★ Elefantenhimmel
Infamous hard anchor-clip and possible rope drag problems. Otherwise great tufa climbing at around 6b+. Set: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 2001 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Globus
A hard slab on the orange-grey wall, requiring good footwork. Then sustained and steep climbing on good pockets. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 35m, 13 | Kalymnos | ||
6c+/7a | ★★★ Mystère et Boule de Gomme
Guidebooks 6c+/7a, 8a.nu consensus 6c+/7a. Set: Vincent Lauzon, 2014 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Bis a bis
| 20m, 7 | Rodellar | ||
8 | ★★★ Computerspiele
| 23m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★★ Aeolia
Great, playful moves inside and next to the diagonal tufa corner. Set: Antonis Skevofylakas & Thomas Michaelides, 2002 | 30m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
8 | ★★★ Ejakulation
Two harder sections, first face climbing on crimpers, second a litte overhang to the anchor, separated by a no-hand-rest. FA: R. Kraft, 1997 | 18m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★★ Blue agave
| 35m, 17 | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★ Yoko M-ono
Set: Micha Schreiber, 2015 | 22m, 11 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ El guerrero pacífico
Long moves on jugs. Quite soft for the grade (7a) given by the guidebook. Set: Ramón Navarro "Ramonet" | Bellus-Alboy | |||
7a | ★★ Mike
A technical wallclimb with several hard parts and a distinctive long move. Unclipping the first QD after reaching the 2nd and extending the 3rd QD will greatly reduce rope drag. Set: Mike Moes, 1992 | 27m, 11 | Berdorf | ||
8 | ★★ Reinhard-Karl-Gedächtnisweg mit Dach | 16m, 9 | Humboldtbunker | ||
8 | ★★ Heldbräu
FFA: Klaus Kaumeier, 1993 | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★★ La Javanaise
Great climbing with no tricks. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ El Oasis
Bolts a bit off to the side. Polished. | 27m | Chulilla | ||
8 | ★★ Brothers in Arms
FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent
| 20m | Margalef | ||
7a | ★ Fouska
Start in the back left of the little cave. Up steeply on big jugs to a contorted finish. Set: John Mendez, 2001 | 12m, 7 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Santana
FA: Bernhard Schiestl, 1996 | 22m, 10 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
7a | ★★★ Cojón prieto
At right side of priminent corner along right leaning flake. | 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
FB:6B | ★★ Macedonia | 3m | Albarracín | ||
7a | ★★ Cigarillo
Set: 2002 | 28m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Nymph
An overhanging, quite gymlike climb. Set: Markus Stofer, Michael Schuh, Claudia Voth & Gavvy King, 2003 | 20m, 6 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Ananda
| 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ Makari
Short but intense and pumpy with a reachy crux towards the end of the organ pipes. Set: Remy & partners, 2017 | 18m, 8 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Sens Unique
A long, vertical journey, on smooth orange rock, mostly requiring good footwork and routefinding skills. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2009 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa
| 20m, 6 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ La Danza del Maestrale | 25m, 12 | Ogliastra | ||
{FB} 6A+ | ★★★ Blue Sky of Mine | 8m | Magic Wood | ||
7a | ★★★ Estupendiux
| 25m, 10 | Patones | ||
7a | ★★ Red Sea Secrets
Good route with a juggy tufa start and a technical upper half. Unfortunately, very poor and sparse bolt placement makes it hard to enjoy if you're not very comfortable in the grade. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2009 | 28m, 7 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Chuck Notis
Set: Micha Schreiber, 2015 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Alkionida
Set: A. Skevofilakas - K. Labadarios, 2004 | 30m | Ymittos | ||
7a | ★★ Attero Dominatus | 10m, 9 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ La Morena del Muntsant
| 41m | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Psili Makilopardali
Set: Remy & partners, 2016 | 32m, 18 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Fausses fractures
| Vosges du Midi | |||
8+ | ★★★ Die Vollendung
| 27m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
8 | ★★ Altweiberriß
| 14m | Unteres Inntal | ||
7a | ★★★ Indian Holidays
| 27m, 11 | Margalef | ||
7a | ★★★ Turbo Cibi Facho
Super popular and getting a little shiny these days. Committing slab to finish. | 25m | Buoux | ||
7a/a+ | ★★★ Tsoutsouni
Guidebooks 7a/+. 8a.nu consensus 7a/+. Set: Y.+C.Remy, 2013 | 25m, 15 | Leonidio | ||
8+ | ★★★ Fight Gravity
FFA: Wolfgang Güllich † & Kurt Albert †, 1982 | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ Cargol Treu Banya
| 13m | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Mauerläufer | 35m, 14 | Vättis | ||
7a | ★★ Rokodromo
Set: Ramón Navarro | 10m, 5 | Bellus-Alboy | ||
7a | ★★★ Ioli
An awkward crux at the start leads up to tufa-land with big tufas and organpipes. Hard exit over the bulge right before the anchor. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 30m, 12 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Ermiñaño
| 28m, 13 | Margalef | ||
8 | ★★ Gilgamesch
Some nice pocket pulling which ends much too soon. | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ kun
| 28m, 10 | Siurana | ||
8-/8 | ★★ Baggi Ned
Maint: Dietmar Heidl | 14m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ Saint Georges Picos
Classic. Hard for the first four clips. | 20m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ Desperate Sex Wifes
Set: Remy & partners, 2018 | 15m, 8 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Redders
Wonderful line up in the centre. Will test your perseverance at the top before you can clip the chains. Has suffered from many ascents and is now competing for most polished route of El Chorro. Still worth doing! | 30m | El Chorro | ||
7a | ★★★ Cantina Marina
| 38m, 19 | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ Passé décomposé
popular line, well used | 25m | Vosges du Midi | ||
7a | ★★★ Chachi qui Chapi
Set: Juanjo, Barril & A. Ribera | 16m, 8 | Margalef | ||
7a | ★★★ Egopone
Set: A.Luisier | 17m, 7 | Basler Jura | ||
8 | ★★ Heinz Schenk
| 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ Magic line
Incredible climbing (and chimneying) on massive tufas. | 30m | Chulilla | ||
7a/a+ | ★★★ Thanks George
Guidebooks 7a/+, 8a.nu consensus 7a/+. Set: C. + C. Remy, 2012 | 25m, 16 | Kyparissi | ||
7a | ★★ Y Viva Pancho Villa!
Set: Vincent Serra di Migni, 2008 | 15m, 6 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Ange
| 30m, 11 | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ Diedro azul
| 20m, 9 | La Pedriza |