Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Massif du Mont Blanc Glacier du Tour Aiguille Purtscheller | ||||||||
5a 5a D | ★★★ Arête Sud classique - with Fi | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 13th Jul 2022 | ||||
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Massif du Mont Blanc Glacier du Tour Aiguille du Chardonnet | ||||||||
AD | ★★ N-butress, Eperon Migot (Eperon Migot) - with Lisa | 500m | Sun 29th Aug 1999 | |||||
Descent via W-ridge
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Glacier du Tour Aiguille du Tour | ||||||||
F | E slope - with Jacob Klaris-Jensen | 150m | Wed 1st Jul 2009 | |||||
Nedstigning
|
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AD 4c AD | ★★ Table du Roc spur - with Lisa | 440m | Mon 30th Aug 1999 | |||||
A must to have lunch on "the table".
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Aiguille Verte 4122m | ||||||||
M5 TD | Pointe Farrar / Farraon - with Oscar Krumlinde | 500m | Fri 3rd Jan 2020 | |||||
Climbed 7 pitches before rappelling down.
|
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TD | ★★★ NW-face direct, Nant Blanc face - with M. Holmgren | 970m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 26th Dec 1989 | ||||
Poor condition on route w. lots of Black ice. 2 bivvys. Descent via 26 rappels in Whymper couloir
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Droites 4000 m | ||||||||
TD | ★★★ N-face, classic route - with M.Sribhadung | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 28th Dec 1988 | ||||
Winter ascent. 2 bivvys on face and descent via 15 rappels down south side Breche des Droites
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Les Courtes 3856m | ||||||||
D | ★★★ N-face, Swiss route - with M.Holmgren | 800m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 29th Jun 1987 | ||||
First of the classic north faces in Argentiere wall
|
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AD | NE-face/slope - with M.Holmgren | 700m | Mon 29th Jun 1987 | |||||
Descent after climbing Swiss route.
|
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AD | Col du Courtes 3569m NE slope | 600m | Fri 1st Apr 1988 | |||||
Descended route after climbing N-face Triolet
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Aiguille de Triolet 3870m | ||||||||
D | ★★ N-face | 700m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Apr 1988 | ||||
From summit traversed to the right vs. Courtes and downlclimbed snowfields after ascent.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Pointes Domino 3648m | ||||||||
TD | Petit Viking - with M.Sribhadung | 500m | Sat 5th Mar 1988 | |||||
Slept in snow cave on Argentiere glacier before and after climb. Rappeled down route.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Pointe Superieure de Pré de Bard 3658m | ||||||||
ED | ★ Charlet-Ghilini couloir - with M.Sribhadung | 500m | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jan 1990 | ||||
Started from Refuge Argentiere using skis to get to base of climb. Skied down to the valley after climb.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Aiguille d'Argentière | ||||||||
AD | Couloir en Y | 450m | Thu 14th Mar 2024 | |||||
Too warm, heavy slabs of snow were sliding down the couloir
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Aiguille d'Argentière Aiguille du Refuge 3057m | ||||||||
6c | Bettembourg de droite - with Lisa W | 200m | Thu 6th Jul 2023 | |||||
Climbed with Lisa and rappelled down. The grading 6c seems to high. More difficult route finding than one would think.
|
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4c | ★★ Le Gateau de Riz - with Rowan H, Olly H | 170m | Mon 11th Jul 2022 | |||||
Nice route. lead 2 and 4
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Aiguille d'Argentière Minaret 3450 m | ||||||||
6a | Voie Mazars - Rébuffat - with Lisa W | 300m | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | |||||
With Lisa climbed to top of first tower.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Aiguille d'Argentière Plateau du Jardin - 3177 m | ||||||||
6 |
★★★ Diedre Central
- with
Lisa W
1
4c
35
lead by
Lisa W
3
5b
40
lead by
Lisa W
5
6a
20
lead by
Lisa W
| 200m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jul 2023 | ||||
Super nice climb
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Aiguille du Moine | ||||||||
6a+ | ★ Voie Contamine Labrunie - with Lisa | 400m | ★ Good | Wed 25th Aug 1999 | ||||
5h up 2h down S-face scramble
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Petit Dru 3733m | ||||||||
TD | ★★★ N-face - P.Allain /Leninger (allain /leninger) | 850m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Aug 2002 | ||||
often mixed
|
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ED | ★★★ american direct | 1100m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Aug 2001 | ||||
don't abseil!!
|
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ED | ★★★ american direct - with Lisa | 500m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 11th Aug 2000 | ||||
Up to bloc coince (20 pitches) Rappel down. A magic experience climbing on the Dru.
|
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6c+ ED | ★★★ american direct - with Jens | 1100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Aug 2021 | ||||
Simul-climbing, swinging leads, all OS and free except for the aid rope traverese into the N-face. Did the Petit/Grand traverse in reverse as descent and rappeled from the Grand Drus summit to the glacier.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Grandes Jorasses | ||||||||
AD | SW-face Ordinary route - with M.Holmgren | 1400m | Tue 25th Jul 1995 | |||||
In descent after Walker Spur
|
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ED | ★★★ North face / Walker spur (Walker spur) - with M.Holmgren | 1200m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th Jul 1995 | ||||
Bivvy at tour Rouge
|
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ED | ★★★ North face / Walker spur | 1200m | Tue 16th Aug 2022 | |||||
Mega! 2/6 of the great north faces of the European Alps.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Petit Jorasses | ||||||||
6a |
★★★ Voie Contamine
- with
Lisa W
| 900m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 2nd Sep 1999 | ||||
A long and climb. We started as the sun got up and reached summit after 10h of climbing. Rappelled down Anouck and hit the glacier as it started to get dark. Sweet memory.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Dent du Géant | ||||||||
6a | ★★ Arête Nord | 250m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | ||||
6c A0 | Spigolo SE - with Remo, Noah | Thu 20th Jul 2023 | ||||||
|
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★★★ South Face | 150m | 2006 | ||||||
first free solo ascent
|
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4 | ★★★ Normal Route-West Face (Ordinary Route-West Face) | 180m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Jul 2001 | ||||
great route marred by fixed ropes
|
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4 | ★★★ Normal Route-West Face (Ordinary Route-West Face) | 180m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Aug 2014 | ||||
A classic climb except for the cable.
|
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4 | ★★★ Ordinary Route-West Face | 180m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Sep 2012 | ||||
shame about the fixed rope, useless but for the crux. Otherwise awesome climb and stunning views. A lot of air below the feet!
|
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4 | ★★★ Normal Route-West Face (Ordinary Route-West Face) - with Trent, Marrie | 180m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Jul 2016 | ||||
Probably the most impressive summit I've ever been on. Went a little off the main route on the mountaineering section and ended up climbing up a really cool 50 degree snow/ice slope. The rock climb is slightly diminished by the fixed industrial shipping line but I guess with how many people queue up for the route it speeds things up.
|
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4 | ★★★ Normal Route-West Face - with Lisa | 180m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 7th Aug 2017 | ||||
Crowded!
|
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4 | ★★★ Normal Route-West Face - with Pujol | 180m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Aug 2016 | ||||
No use of ropes
|
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4 | ★★★ Normal Route-West Face | 180m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Jul 2022 | ||||
incroyable
|
||||||||
4 | ★★★ Normal Route-West Face | 180m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Route was icy. Climbed everything with crampons on. Great day. Great adventure.
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Aiguilles Marbrées 3535m | ||||||||
PD | ★★ Traverse S-N - with Joni, Elin S. | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Elin and Joni did all the leading. Just tagged along, supernice day.
|
||||||||
PD | ★★ Traverse S-N - with Min He | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Sep 2022 | ||||
Please note that due to the receding glacier, you will have to do two abseiling even if you are using a 60m rope
|
||||||||
PD | ★★ Traverse S-N | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||
Enjoyable ridge climb. The 5a wall requires some courage and can also be bypassed by entering the ridge more to the north (but you will miss the best climbing parts ;-))
|
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PD | ★★ Traverse S-N - with Silvan | 150m | Fri 23rd Jun 2023 | |||||
(Rq : traversée N-S en fait)
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Tour Ronde 3792m | ||||||||
TD |
Rébuffat goulotte
- with
Joni, Elin
1
AD
50m
2
D
50
3
TD
50
4
5
6
7
| 150m | Fri 19th Feb 2021 | |||||
Very dry conditions. Aborted after 3 pitches. The 4+ pitch had basically no ice.
|
||||||||
AD | W-side Gervasutti couloir | 250m | Wed 1st Apr 1987 | |||||
Approach on skies from Aiguille du Midi, finished down vallée Blanch
|
||||||||
D | ★★★ N-face - with Bernard Amigues | 330m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 10th Apr 1987 | ||||
Skied to start of climb and then down to valley floor
|
||||||||
D | ★★★ N-face - with D, B.Bidner, N.Gafgo | 330m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 1991 | ||||
Solo all beside each other. Miserable weather so could not ski down Vallée blance as planned. Took shelter in Italian Torino lift station.
|
||||||||
PD | ★★ SE-ridge | 250m | Wed 1st Apr 1987 | |||||
In descent
|
||||||||
PD | ★★ SE-ridge - with Bernard Amigues | 250m | Fri 10th Apr 1987 | |||||
In descent
|
||||||||
PD | ★★ SE-ridge - with D, B.Bidner, N.Gafgo | 250m | Thu 3rd Jan 1991 | |||||
In descent
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Aiguille d'Entreves 3600m | ||||||||
PD | ★★★ SW Ridge - with 小跳kexin | 400m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 6th Oct 2023 | ||||
This is what you call a knife's edge. Epic climb, super accessible, as long as you commit.
|
||||||||
PD | ★★★ NE Ridge - with Michael Pedersen | 400m | Fri 22nd Aug 2008 | |||||
Nedstigning
|
||||||||
PD | ★★★ NE Ridge - with Lucas, Andreas | 400m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 10th Jul 2019 | ||||
Did Entreves traverse from NE to SW. Lovely climb but busy. Most parties did it in the other direction SW to NE which created some traffic jams.
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Grand Flambeau 3559m | ||||||||
ED | Monia Mena - with Oscar Krumlinde | 170m | Sat 4th Jan 2020 | |||||
Oscar led 2 first pitches.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Trident du Tacul 3639m | ||||||||
D | ★★★ Lépiney route - with Lisa | 200m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Jul 1995 | ||||
Sitting on summit wathing some friend doing Swiss route on Gr. Capuccin
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Grand Capucin | ||||||||
8b | La Voie Petit | 450m | 2005 | |||||
1st redpoint ascent
|
||||||||
7b | ★★★ Voyage selon Gulliver | 300m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Sep 2020 | ||||
OS and freed all pitches apart from last pendulum and one fall on first pitch (too cold). Maybe 7b in total
Trad |
||||||||
7a+ A0 7a+ A0 | ★★★ L’élixir d’Astaroth - with Trent | 400m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | ||||
What a massive day! Left our glacier bivy at 5.30am and got back at 11pm. The first three pitches were absolute class then the epic began. went a little off route and had to build a sketchy belay next to the big roof. Then aiding through the roof needed some "Vertical Limit' like dynamic cam placements and rediculous high steps in the aiders. Things got better from there but we were getting super tired.
Topped out at about 7.30, rapped down and ready to hike by 9 and then just died walking back up the hill to our tent where I felt like having a exhaustion vomit.
|
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6b | ★★★ Voie des Suisses - with Lisa | 300m | Sat 24th Jul 1993 | |||||
Rope gott stuck on rappel, epic.
|
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6b | ★★★ Voie des Suisses | 300m | 2008 | |||||
1st free solo ascent
|
||||||||
6b Hard |
★★★ Voie des Suisses
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
| 300m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Jul 2023 | ||||
Brutal Route megacracks that crush your fingers haha
|
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6b | ★★★ Voie des Suisses - with david | 300m | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | |||||
Long Day as walked from the Midi , great route
|
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6b+ |
★★★ O sole mio
- with
Remo, Noah
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
| 300m | Mon 10th Jul 2023 | |||||
Alles frei
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★★ L'écho des alpages (L'écho des alpages L1) | 460m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Aug 2016 | ||||
Petite fissure déséquilibrant
|
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7a+ | ★★★ L'écho des alpages (L'écho des alpages L9) | 460m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Aug 2016 | ||||
Démente longueur, un voyage interminable dans un dièdre. Retirer la fiche et grimper
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Gros Rognon | ||||||||
★ NE Gully | 350m | ★ Good | Wed 8th Nov 2006 | |||||
Cool little solo
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Pointe Adolphe Rey, 3535m | ||||||||
6b | ★★ Voie Bettembourg/Thivierge - with Remo, Noah | 250m | Tue 11th Jul 2023 | |||||
|
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6b+ 6b+ ED | ★★★ Total Plook (Total Plook L1) | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Aug 2016 | ||||
Finger crack
|
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5+ 6a | ★★★ Salluard Route | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 1st Jul 2001 | ||||
one of the best alpine rock climbs I've ever done
|
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6a | ★★★ Salluard Route | 250m | Tue 3rd Jul 2018 | |||||
Followed guide. Mostly clean but with a few rests
|
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6a | ★★★ Salluard Route - with Ingmar S | 250m | Wed 5th Aug 2020 | |||||
Climbed to summit of first tower and rappelled down route. Beautiful route.
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m | ||||||||
PD | ★ North-West Face (Tacul) | 700m | ★ Good | Wed 21st Aug 2002 | ||||
A pleasant day to and from the Aiguille du Midi.
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m Chandelle de Mont Blanc du Tacul, 3613m | ||||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Bonatti - Tabou combination - with Ingmar S | 200m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | ||||
Fanastic climbing. Bolted anchors otherwise little fixed pro
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m Roi de Siam | ||||||||
5c 5c D | ★★ Le Lifting du Roi | 200m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Aug 2017 | ||||
Amazing alpine adventure, great rock with exceptional location and views!! Highly recommended!
|
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5c D | ★★ Le Lifting du Roi - with David | 200m | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | |||||
Last day Climb after Grand Capucin yesterday easy meander up some nice granite and one sucky chimney great last pitch to top
|
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Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m Pyramide du Tacul | ||||||||
4c 4c AD | ★★ Arête est (east ridge) - voie normale - with Lisa | 250m | ★ Good | Sat 31st Jul 1999 | ||||
Another Rebuffat 100 classic
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m East face | ||||||||
TD | Couloir Valeria - with Oscar Krumlinde | 450m | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||||
Broke crampon on lead so front piece got detached. (webbing was old and got cut of by trouring boots). Bailed route after 3 pitches.
|
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TD |
Couloir Valeria
- with
Elin, Joni
1
TD
450m
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
| 450m | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | |||||
Snowbridge over bergscrund collapsed for Joni. Limited with ice on second pitch. Climbed 3 pitches.
|
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TD | Goulotte Lafaille - with M.Sribhadung | 800m | Wed 16th Mar 1988 | |||||
Heavy spindrift this day.
|
||||||||
ED | ★★★ Super couloir - with M.Sribhadung | 800m | Thu 10th Mar 1988 | |||||
Slept in tent at base of climb prior to climb. Climbed next morning then rappelled down for sleep.
|
||||||||
TD 5c TD | ★★★ Pilier Gervasutti (gervassuti pillar) | 850m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Jul 1990 | ||||
Good climb, got lost up high and topped out by moonlight, special
|
||||||||
TD 5c TD | ★★★ Pilier Gervasutti (gervassuti pillar) | 850m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st Aug 2002 | ||||
clears fast after bad weather
|
||||||||
5c 5c TD | ★★★ Pilier Gervasutti - with M.Holmgren | 850m | Sun 8th Aug 1993 | |||||
Alpine grade TD+. Did direct verions on Tour rouge. Hail and thunderstorm from tour rouge. Spin-drift in exit gullies.
|
||||||||
D | ★ Couloir Jager (Jager Coulior) | 600m | ★ Good | Wed 8th Nov 2006 | ||||
First Climb in Chamonix
|
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D | ★ Couloir Jager - with M.Sribhadung | 600m | Wed 4th Feb 1987 | |||||
Epic. Pitched the route! Then M fell into crevasse in snow storm on top. Bivvy in crevasse at around 4,000 m (had a stove luckily but no sleeping bag). Descent Valle blance on skis day after bivvy.
|
||||||||
TD | ★★★ Gabarrou-Albinoni couloir - with Francis | 500m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Mar 1987 | ||||
Climb with no mishaps. Francis couldn't ski so approach on foot and hiked back up to Midi lift. Invited to sleep indoor by guardian.
|
||||||||
TD | ★★★ Gabarrou-Albinoni couloir - with Leo K | 500m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Mar 2024 | ||||
Revisited this classic route. Weather was nice with little wind. Lot's of fresh snow in starting gully. Good ice conditions in gully itself. Compared to last time there is a major rock "pole" that is wedged across the gully at the last pitch than one have to climb over. Rappel anchors bolted for 60m ropes.
|
||||||||
TD | Modica-Noury coloir - with M.Sribhadung | 500m | Mon 28th Dec 1987 | |||||
Skied down to start of climb from Midi. Climbed and rappeled and then down valley blance on skis.
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m Pointe Lachenal | ||||||||
AD | ★★★ Pointe Lachenal Traverse | 100m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd May 2022 | ||||
Awesome day out! Second climb here. Conditions were great, led the final crux pitch in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag, easily to protect. Stunning views on the approach and descent. Bring a sufficient rack & 70m rope to be safe for the long abseil at the start.
|
||||||||
6b | ★★★ Harold et Maud - with Lisa, M.Holmgren | 230m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Aug 2000 | ||||
Rappel down route after climb.
|
||||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Voie Contamine - with Lisa | 230m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2000 | ||||
First lift in morning. 1h to start of climb. Remember great pace. Finished home via Arete Cosmiques.
|
||||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Voie Contamine - with M. Holmgren | 230m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Jul 1987 | ||||
Rappel down route after climb. Slept in old Cosmique hut (workers hut) for several day climbing in the area
|
||||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Voie Contamine | 230m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||
Swap Leads
Long Hot Walk back to Midi
|
||||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Voie Contamine | 230m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||
Swap Leads
Long Hot Walk back to Midi
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m North Face Triangle | ||||||||
D | ★★★ Chere Couloir (Chèré Couloir) | 350m | Thu 22nd Sep 2016 | |||||
Bailed after the second steep pitch 5th? due to exhaustion/ poor acclimatisation.
|
||||||||
D | ★★★ Chere Couloir - with M.Holmgren | 350m | Wed 10th Jun 1987 | |||||
Stayed in old Cosmique arete maintenance hut. Winter conditions on route with heavy spindrift. Got snowed in for one day in waist deep snow, not possible to return to Midi. PDHM established tent on glacier for rescue operation.
|
||||||||
D | ★★★ Chere Couloir - with Joni Puukko | 350m | Sun 25th Oct 2020 | |||||
Fairly dry conditions lower down more ice higher up. Heavy spindrift down gully.
|
||||||||
D | ★★★ Chere Couloir - with Miha, Maja | 350m | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | |||||
Awesome climb, was not formed properly but still fun. Retreated as well for the lack of time.
|
||||||||
D | Petit Frounet - with Joni Puukko | 350m | Sat 24th Oct 2020 | |||||
Climbed with skies up until 2nd snow band. Climbed straight up to early from R slanting snow gully and ended up to far L for finish. Rappel down from slings and Abalakovs.
|
||||||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Maudit 4465m | ||||||||
TD | ★★ Goulotte Comino-Grassi - with Chris Dube | 300m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Mar 1988 | ||||
Winter climb. Skied / skinned to route. Rappel down route then Valée blanc in the dark. Helped a famous climber who also was going down in the dark, fallen on skies and dislocated shoulder.
|
||||||||
D | ★★★ Arête Kuffner - with Lisa | 900m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 10th Aug 1998 | ||||
Starting from bivouac de la Fource 3679m. Tip to be early at bivouac in order to scout first hour of climbing on route in afternoon. This makes routefinding in the dark easy. Climbed route in 5h. continued to summit of Mt. Blanc via "trois monts" route. Slept in refuge Gouter on descent.
|
Superb rock.