Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 24th May 2024 - Annot | |||||||
La cave | |||||||
5b ~6a+ | ★★ L’illumination | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Recotée 6a+ dans le nouveau topo.
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Le Moulin de Bertrand | |||||||
Barrage | |||||||
7a | ★★★ majorité absolue - with Etienne | 25m | |||||
Go up the corner to easily reach the second bolt in the wall.
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie — 3 attempts - with Matt King, Catlandia, Elaine | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell on the jump twice. Think I have it sorted for tomorrow. I reckon the short wall before the overhang is the crux
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6a+ | ★★ Babylone - with Matt King, Catlandia, Elaine | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
The worst climb I've done here, and that's not saying much. Tough to read the start
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8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche | 20m | |||||
All the moves now. The pogo to throw for a pocket in the last hard section is rad
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Sept Nains | |||||||
6a | Gear on ★★★ Blanche neige - with Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Gear on makes a huge difference on the slabby middle section. Respect Felix for placing the draws. You get rewarded with a juggy slight overhanging finish if you manage the slab.
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Renards | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Baileys baleze - with Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | ||||||
Simply done
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6c+ | Picon Bière - with Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | ||||||
Way to hard the overhang.
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Pignu | |||||||
Les Antennes | |||||||
5+ ~6 | ★★ Salève - with Catharina Zahn | ★ Good | |||||
5c in the books
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6c+ ~6c | Spiderman - with Catharina Zahn | ||||||
Definierter Einstiegsboulder.
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5a ~5b | ★★ La pouf du moment - with Catharina Zahn | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5b in the books
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Renards | |||||||
6b | ★★ Arc en ciel - with Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | 24m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tear down
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Vesancy | |||||||
5a | Objectif bac | Average | |||||
Roche un peu mouillée mais ça le fait !
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Le Thaurac | |||||||
La Face Sud Benje Romane | |||||||
6a | ★ Tomber la chemise - with Boris | 20m | |||||
Before the cliff the route turns right to another bolt. After climbibg straight I hardly recommend to go this way, otherwise going straight will make this Route harder
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Tamié | |||||||
★★ ?8 - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||||
The left variant of the next route left to 'Le Caprice'
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5c+ | ?1 - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 15m | |||||
#warmup in the ramp with alternative exit whoich is harder than 4c.
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6b+ | Gear on Casanova Solo - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 10m, 4 | |||||
First 2 bolts pre-clipped for the sake of safety.
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Roche-Ballue | |||||||
Adrénaline | |||||||
5b+ | ★★ Neurotransmetteur - with Stephane de Rez’in&Roc | 21m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Voie très sympa mais roche friable et encore humide donc attention
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6c | 6C possible ligne 1 | 10m, 5 | |||||
Désherbage et purge au niveau du relais
Plein de repos et utilisation du dièdre à droite au départ
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
North Fontainebleau Rocher Canon Yellow circuit PD+ (nº 2) | |||||||
3B ~3A+ | ★★ Yellow 22 | ||||||
only drove to roche cannon for this
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie — 5 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a ripper! I haven't done a dyno quite like that on rock ever, let alone as the last move of the route! Super fun. Boy is is good here in Ceuse
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Chant de cristal - with Matt King, Caitlind, Elaine | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Went the wrong way at the crux. Chalky pockets everywhere.
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6c+ | ★★★ El Daü — 2 attempts - with Matt King, Caitlind, Elaine | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Felt much better today, sequences dialled then fired it off. Not sure about this converting to a ewbank 22...
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
7a | ★★ Livingstone - with Matt King, Caitlind, Elaine | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got the 6b done comfortably enough. The second pitch was a truly transcendental experience. I haven't been scared like that in a while.
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6b+ | ★★★ Le Vol du Pilatus | 35m | |||||
Fun
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche | 20m | |||||
Couldn't figure out the boulder at the 4th bolt. Will come back after discussing some beta
|
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Massif de la Sainte-Baume | |||||||
La cour des miracles Gauche | |||||||
9a Easy | ★★★ Lune de miel | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice route with 2 boulder sections and a rest between.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Falaise Mandrin | |||||||
Face Sud | |||||||
4c | Les bottes à Mandrin - with Kai, Sonnendeck | 10m, 6 | Don't Bother | ||||
Speckige Rampe
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5b |
Droit dans mes bottes P1
- with
Kai, Sonnendeck
1
5b
| Average | |||||
Nicht zu weit links einsteigen.
|
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Carrière du Fier | |||||||
5b | No. 3 - with Kai, Sonnendeck | 17m, 9 | Don't Bother | ||||
Mentales Plattentraining. Lose Griffe und Tritte erhöhen die Anspannung.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Falaise Mandrin | |||||||
Face Sud | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Ca me botte - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Good, but very short. Probably avoided the crux because one can't see the crucial hole from below.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
North Fontainebleau Mont Ussy Red circuit TD+ (nº 4) | |||||||
5C | ★★ Bille Hard | ||||||
Like usually s* topout
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Gorges du Blavet | |||||||
Face sud L'origine du monde | |||||||
4b | ★ Mamy on sight | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
The local topo says 5b+, grade wise. The first few moves up the step are hard for smaller climbers, since the good crimp is out of reach for them. Grade is in the 5a-5c+ range, depending on your size...
Nice slab/ridge after the second bolt.
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
6b | ★★ Marylou - with Matt King, Catland, Elaine | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tough crux, nice pumpy coral otherwise as per other routes on this wall.
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Berlin | |||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Opération houblon P1
- with
Matt King, Catland, Elaine
1
7b+
| 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really awesome first half into a confounding and tough conclusion. Had to stick clip before I could commit to the move into the undercling.
|
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7b+ | ★★★ San Jones Pecos - with Matt King, Catland, Elaine | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Astounding line to behold. Very tough for me at the moment, and also wet at the anchor. Was quite gripped at times and took some massive wingers
|
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7a | ★★★ La Javanaise | 25m | |||||
Proper hard and a bit run out. Loved it
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Berlin | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ San Jones Pecos | 25m | |||||
Wet at the top so didn't have another go
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6b+ | ★★ Super Mario — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | |||||
Punted off the last move on the onsight. Slippery and tricky
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur Pirouette | |||||||
5c | ? | ||||||
I think I lead this climb. Had a "7" scratched into the rock. Last section before the main path. A great route. Slabby and easier than it looks. Worth a go.
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur Lascaux | |||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★★ Le dièdre des mulots | ||||||
You will know when you meet the crux...or just below it.....big jugs.... Terribly polished by many hands.... Most of which, I reckon, went back down. This is a hard route for 5b.....and the crux moves are polished. Not really a nice route.
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4c ~4b+ | ★★ L'escalier de main | ||||||
Bridging involved. Three routes very close together. Not a bad route. Not sure where the 6a neighbour goes
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Daims | |||||||
5c | Rage de daim | ||||||
Starting moves are the hardest (trying to figure the correct start is also hard).
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5b ~5b+ | Adaim et Eve | ||||||
Not sure of start. The LHS is not the way I reckon......came onto the rope trying to figure out the moves. Easyish after that.
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Cuvier Cuvier Rempart Off circuit boulders | |||||||
6A | ★★★ L'Angle Allain — 3 attempts | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It’s great, buts it’s over before it earns a third star I think.
|
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
L'Escalès Belvedère de la Carelle Dingo | |||||||
6a | ★★ Passion d'Amour | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really enjoyed! Jugs the whole way. A 80m rope will get you from the rap to the anchors
|
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Rochefort-du-Gard | |||||||
Saveur du soir | |||||||
6a+ | Messala | Don't Bother | |||||
Sharp
|
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4c | ★ Rêve de gosse | Don't Bother | |||||
Sharp
|
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Les Pérouses | |||||||
Falaise | |||||||
5c | ★★★ Sous l'Oeil des Papaces (L1) - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wow what a route. Jugs up to the crux. Then extraordinary laybacks with good feet. I'm loving it.
No idea if there is a second pitch (as shown in the guidebook of R. Durieux). After the lower off there is a lot of vegetation and I didn't see a bolt to head for. |
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5c | ★★★ Amazone (L1) - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
No idea if there is a second pitch (as shown in the guidebook of R. Durieux). After the lower off there is a lot of vegetation and I didn't see a bolt to head for.
|
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5c |
La Centrale P1
- with
Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck
1
| 35m, 15 | Average | ||||
The crux move was quite hard for me. Pulling right on a small side-pull-crimp, getting the left foot into a small crimp (swapping with the hand), standing up, supported by a mono pocket and finally a dyno somehow to the big waterhole jug. Great relief to stick that move. Would have been quite a whiper I guess.
Did not continue into the second pitch because I was not motivated enough. |
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5c ~5b+ | ★★★ Super Lunule - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow. Worth the approach.
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Coulmes Presles Fond du cirque | |||||||
6b |
★★ Absolue
- with
Malcolm Urie, keren
1
6a
2
6a
3
6a
4
6b
5
6b
6
6a
Omg
7
4
| 200m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautiful climb in an unusual crack climbing style for Presles. Good luck for pitch6 in an awkward chimney. A real adventure even if you feel strong for the grade
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
6c | ★★ Bonnye And Clyde — 2 attempts - with Matt King, Caitland, Elaine | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Techy start boulder with a cool thumb hold, into mostly mindless jugging
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6a+ | ★★ Papyrus - with Matt King, Caitland, Elaine | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome climbing to finish the day
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Aller en Chine | 35m | |||||
Sans méthode, paires déjà posées.
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Le Caroux | |||||||
Tour Carrée | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Grand Livre | 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super beautiful crack!!
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie — 2 attempts | 20m | |||||
Fun dyno finish
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Mont Dol | |||||||
Hangar | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★ Balafre — 3 attempts | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Plus difficile que ça voisine de gauche qui est 7a également
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
North Fontainebleau Mont Ussy Yellow circuit PD- (n°2) | |||||||
2 | ★ L'Arrivée Bof | ★ Good | |||||
Last ascent, will be back!:)
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2 | ★ La Simplissime | ★ Good | |||||
Very simplissime indeed
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Tautavel | |||||||
Alzine Le premier secteur | |||||||
6b | ★★★ The first - with Marion Lemetayer | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Favourite climb of the day. A right heel hook to a balance move, then repeat with a left heel!
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6a+ | ★★★ Ni Dieu ni maitre - with Marion Lemetayer | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Not much harder than it's 5c neighbour
|
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5c | ★★ Bimbarole volante - with Marion Lemetayer | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice warm up
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Tautavel | |||||||
Alzine Grand cirque | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Le beau voyage - with Marion Lemetayer | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last climb of the day. It started raining just before the top!!! Hard for a 6b+, also very run out!!! Beautiful line
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Orpierre | |||||||
Les Blaches Éternel féminin | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★ Divine Maryleen - with Antoine B | 40m, 18 | Don't Bother | ||||
I didn’t understand the moves at the crux of the 6b part… disliked
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Orpierre | |||||||
Les Blaches Le grand filet | |||||||
6b+ | La petite veine bleue - with Antoine B | 40m, 19 | |||||
Beautiful route
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Rocher Baron | |||||||
Quand on a que l'amour | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Quand on n'ose que l'amour | 20m | |||||
Pumpy
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Rocher Baron | |||||||
La Sieste au soleil | |||||||
6c | ★ Affirmatif yaka ! | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bouldering start
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Apremont Apremont Désert Pignon 136 Orange circuit AD (N°4) | |||||||
2C | ★ Le Miroir | ★ Good | |||||
the 17b opposite
|
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3C | Haut la Main | ||||||
start move too steep. Might have been on 18t, not sure.
|
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2C | ★ Le Miroir | ||||||
we didn't realise the chimney was in, Tom did a nice arete + push beta, I took a boost to do the same
|
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3B | La Tournette | ||||||
L'équipage 16b I think, bailed to adjoining rock, good though
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Trois Pignons West 91.1 Red circuit TD (nº 1) | |||||||
5B | ★★ Courte Faille — 4 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very cool boulder, got tempted by the big hold where you can fit your whole arm... It's not that good
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Trois Pignons West 91.1 Orange circuit AD+ (nº 2) | |||||||
3B | ★ Le Piège à Souris — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
This was a struggle, took a while to figure the right beta
|
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3C | ★ Le Bénitier | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Epic holds and the moves were really fun
|
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3C | ★★ La Dîme — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Reaching for the top wasn't easy
|
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3C | ★★ Le Sacrilège | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Amazing holds and cool moves
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Trois Pignons West 91.1 Yellow circuit PD+ (nº 5) | |||||||
3A | ★★★ Le Bal des Fourmis | ★★★ Classic | |||||
From the bottom this route doesn't look great, but it's actually quite fun with hidden holds
|
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2C | ★★★ La Vise Haut | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Very tall boulder, climbs nicely and the view from the top is great
|
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2C | ★★★ La Cathédrale (jaune 9) | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice boulder, even just for the exposure
|
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2C | ★★ Le Pain de Sucre (jaune 8) | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fun start (went right)
|
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2B | ★★ Le Perforé (jaune 6) | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fun traverse, for extra fun I recommend crawling through the tunnel, realizing you can't top from this side and crawl back
|
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2A | ★★ L'Envolée (jaune 5) | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Such nice holds on this slab
|
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2C | ★★ Le Roc aux Dalles (jaune 4) | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Such a unique boulder! Start from the top jug, downclimb and traverse right
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Trois Pignons West Cul de Chien Orange circuit AD- (n°3) | |||||||
2C | ★★★ Orange 56 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice finish and interesting holds
|
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2C | ★★★ Orange 55 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Such amazing holds!
|
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2B | ★★ Orange 54 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Was fun standing up
|
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3B | ★★ Orange 53 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice start and holds
|
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2B | ★ Orange 18 | ★ Good | |||||
Basically just a walk up, easy
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Apremont Apremont Bizons Circuit Jaune Sévère | |||||||
2C | ★ Le Cake | ★ Good | |||||
It started raining after this one
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Couilles de loups - with Matt King, Catland, Aaron | 20m, 11 | |||||
First climb at Suzie 😍
|
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6b+ | ★★ Harley Davidson — 2 attempts - with Matt King, Catland, Aaron | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Got pumped and tried to drive by across my body. Lovely pockets.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ El Daü - with Matt King, Catland, Aaron | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Woof. Woof.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ El Daü — 2 attempts | 25m, 8 | |||||
Long moves
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Apremont Apremont Bizons Circuit Jaune Sévère | |||||||
3A | ★★ Séance Friction | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice slab
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Apremont Apremont Bizons Orange circuit AD+ (N°3) | |||||||
2C | ★★ L'Orange Nickelée | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Funny huge hold
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Trois Pignons West Roche aux Sabots Circuit 1 Bleu D | |||||||
4B | ★★ Tire à Vue — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Pretty tough, but very fun
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Trois Pignons West Roche aux Sabots Circuit 2 Orange AD | |||||||
2C | ★★ Longue Route | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really nice although polished holds
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Malines | |||||||
6a+ |
★★ Arete du Belvedere
1
5c
2
6a+
3
4c
4
5b
5
5b+
6
4+
7
5b+
8
2+
9
5b+
| 250m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
What a fun day out! These grades are better than the UKC ones, not that it really matters. Crazy how it can be longer than our previous multi, yet have next to no exposure compared to the last one
|