Ascents in No Man's Land

Beautiful

Absolute killer route, watched Stefan Glowacz warm up on this like he was asleep.

Déjà les bouteilles sur la traversée pauvre en pieds. Après on récupère de la lucidité

As good as it gets.

One of my better flashes back then, VERY THIN!!

Super thin and technical but cool little pockets

Quelques méthodes pour s'en sortir décemment du premier mur très à doigts, un pt repos et c'est parti pour faire plus vite possible avant les bouteilles.

Ooops got off route a little!

Très content d'avoir fait cette voie après je suis tombé l'année dernière.

It goes boys.

Traversée exceptionnelle et mur jaune majeur!

What a cracker! Went down nicely once I had learnt the traverse and rests. 4th gp total, it was surprising how quick the pump build up on the first RP go

4th lap today, 10th total. From punting the easiest move at the anchors yesterday, it took 5 more tiiiiired shots for the Send. Got to the crag early but only managed a "warmup" shot before it went into the sun. After 2 more "sunny" shots pushing my efforts to within 1 move of my previous highpoint, I put all my eggs in 1 basket for an "twilight" send in the cold, and it went down! Lots of hard moves, but intimidatingly intense for 12m from the birds nest jug to the anchors.

2nd shot... Mega! Siurana meets a thin steep Taipan-esque sloper groove, with a liberal smattering of Buoux pockets thrown in for good measure. Hard slab, pumpy traverse, and 4 back-to-back tough sequences all the way to the anchors. Totally my style, and inspiring to climb up a rad exposed feature.

Gave it 3 attempts in an effort to try something harder; wow it's nails, hardest thing I've ever properly tried. In the end there were too many cruxes for me to commit any more time, but I learnt a lot!

2 working laps. First was a loooong debacle, 2nd I linked to the middle crux then worked the upper crux to the top. Feels nails, but at least I can do the moves... Lets see what I can do in the 3 days remaining. A thin bouldery start, then a pocket boulder, then a shouldery crux and a long inte se upper steep section up a shallow groove system on rubbish holds and footers. Stressful.

4 shots. On the 3rd I fell AT the damn anchor when I decided to use totally the wrong hold on the last moves to get in position to clip! I am officially an idiot. The 4th lap I fell at the top crux. 2 days remain, but struggling with weariness, trashed skin, and this route always being in the sun.

Great route, I got totally smoked. I'll be back

Really good!

Worst idea to warm up on this!