Routes in Buoux

Super popular and getting a little shiny these days. Committing slab to finish.

Beautiful route going straight up the elephant looking pillar. Must do!

The easiest route here, hence quite popular.

A mega classic and no push over. Start going up and traverse all the way to the right until you reach the anchors under the roof. You can keep going for a 7a+ extension (Methode Rose).

Great route following a strong corner feature up to a flake and final rooflet. Curve left through the roof (ignore the bolts going right) and then swing back out right to the anchor.

A good pitch up a corner system.

L1: A good pitch in its own right. L2: An easy scramble with spaced bolting. L4: A wild finale, can be aided at 6b+ according to Rockfax guide.

The ability to jam will help at the top. Was free soloed by Alain Robert.

A Buoux classic but a word of caution: there's a chance of decking before the 3rd bolt, especially between the 2nd and the 3rd. The top is easier but run out.

Follow the bolts up the obvious crack. Hard for the grade and runout in parts.

Follow the obvious wide crack up and right.

Start from the anchors of Papa Pas Pou or Le Zoo des Robots. Wild but on big holds.

An off-width to start.

An iconic route, almost a rite of passage. 17 intense moves to a good jug. The route starts on a traverse with barely any good feet (most are polished). The rest of the route is easier (old school 6b+) but it's still possible to fall in the slab section under the anchors - use your feet wisely.

One of the first French 8a and essential tick for all aspiring 8a badge wearers!

Chouca is an overhanging 25m pitch up a swelling wall high on the east side of the cliff. Start without using a cairn, the first move should be done to tick the route!

There is a direct finish, "Bout'Chou" (8b+), Antoine Le Menestrel has done the FA in 2001.

The name of the route comes from Antoine and Marc Le Menestrel's dog which died during a storm the year the route was set.

It's the first french female 8a+ sent by Catherine Destivelle.

L1 6a+ L2 6b+

A superb route following the prominent crack/flake.

Classic line up the corner.

Super popular. The route contains one of the most famous moves imaginable, an extreme cross through on modified pockets. The long reach through caught people’s imagination and has come to be known as the Rose move.

Antoine Le Menestrel managed to free the line in September 1985 and even today it remains a coveted and stout test,

4th 8b in the world.

A famous picture of Patrick Edlinger, hanging from one arm while chalking up, was taken in the small roof of that climb. The 3rd pitch requires trad gear unless you want to climb it like Patrick.

Up the bolted crack.

Classic pockets.

The top flake feature and rooflet is absolute class. A few stray bolts confuse the line - stay direct.

L1 7a L2 7a+

Short and pumpy.

L1 6a+ L2 7b

A link-up following a more natural and direct line. Start up 'Homo Sapiens Neandertalis' and at the rooflet continue directly up into the top of 'La Concierge est dans l'Escalier'.

Technical slab climbing.