Routes in Gap (Hautes Alpes)

Initially graded 9c but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi in agreement with Alex Megos in Aug-2021.

https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2020/09/alexander-megos-holt-sich-die-2-begehung-von-letrange-ivresse-des-lenteurs-9a/

Still project - Open - 9a+ ?

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

• 2001, July, 19, Chris Sharma - Beta video
• 2004, May, 24, Sylvain Millet
• 2004, July, 29, Patxi Usobiaga
• 2007, July, 30, Dave Graham
• 2007, Sep, 02, Ethan Pringle
• 2008, July, 27, Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• 2010, Aug, 15, Enzo Oddo
• 2014, June, 01, Jonathan Siegrist
• 2014, July, 11, Alex Megos
• 2014, July, 22, Adam Ondra
• 2014, Aug, 07, Sachi Amma
• 2015, June, 22, Stefano Ghisolfi
• 2016, May, 25, Jon Cardwell
• 2016, Aug, 05, Sean Bailey
• 2017, Sep, 24, Margo Hayes
• 2018, July, Piotr Schab
• 2018, Sep, Stefano Carnati
• 2019, July, Jorge Díaz-Rullo
• 2020, Sébastien Bouin
• 2023, Apr, Tanguy Merard
• 2023, May, Matty Hong

Second pitch to Lapinerie

Location not exact, please move to the right spot!

Three big dynos.

Left variation of "Le Cadre" that avoids the chipped holds on the original line. Hard for the grade.

Between "Bibliographie" and "L’Étrange Ivress".

Initially estimated at 9a but downgraded to 8c+ by Megos and Nico Pelorson.

Originally graded 8c but after a hold broke upgraded to 8c+/9a.

An insanely long pitch. A 120m rope may get you down.

Popular. Technical finish.

Extension of Tête d'ampoule

Extension of Voir un ami pleurer.

popular and quite polished.

Right hand variant to Slow food

Technically a 2nd pitch to un panda sur la banquise

Extension of Tout n'est pas si facile.

The enormous extension of Les Colonettes. Has been climbed on trad gear by Arnaud Petit.

Extension of Le Privilege...

Extension of Pieds Nus...

A V9 boulder problem leads to 7b+ ground.

Climb up the 'tree' and follow the groove

Extension of Cosi fan tutte.

right exit to "Les petits princes de l'absurde"

first pitch is A0 start

Start up Carte Noire then move right.

Tough but a classic!

A classic. Very long and sustained. Despite some rests, the difficulties just keep coming. Put your technical head on too, just pulling won't get you up this one.

7b oblig. Starts just right of "Voie Desmaison".

Gear:

60m ropes and 16 QDs