Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie
A big move to get to the chain. | 20m | Céüse | ||
6b+ | ★★ Harley Davidson
All-time classic. | 25m | Céüse | ||
6a | ★★ Katina
| 20m, 11 | Céüse | ||
6b | ★★ Marylou
| 20m | Céüse | ||
6a+ | ★★ Papyrus
Start up Chant de cristal and immediately fork right. Classic Ceuse climbing! | 25m | Céüse | ||
6c | ★★★ Zagreb
Excellent from start to finish. | 25m | Céüse | ||
6b+ | ★★ Super Mario
| 20m, 7 | Céüse | ||
6b | ★★ Coup De Blues Pour Petit Dom
A well-featured route and always worthwile. | 20m | Céüse | ||
6a | ★★ Carte noire
| 20m | Céüse | ||
7a+ | ★★★ La Petite Illusion
Tremendous climbing, Run-outs bits aren't too hard, so keep going! | 40m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ La Javanaise
Great climbing with no tricks. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Angel Dust
Sustained, technical climbing. | 25m | Céüse | ||
6b | ★★ Cannabis ou Nutella
| 20m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ Ananda
| 25m | Céüse | ||
6a+ | ★★ Couilles de loups
| 20m, 11 | Céüse | ||
7b | ★★★ Super Mickey
Some big pockets, still pumpy though and a tricky finale. | 23m, 10 | Céüse | ||
6b+ | ★★ Chant de cristal
| 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ Turbo Cibi Facho
Super popular and getting a little shiny these days. Committing slab to finish. | 25m | Buoux | ||
6a | ★★ Petit Monstre
The crack. But don't expect to climb the crack. | 17m, 9 | Céüse | ||
7b | ★★★ Cent Patates
A beautifully situated route. | 40m, 13 | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ Saint Georges Picos
Classic. Hard for the first four clips. | 20m | Céüse | ||
6a+ | ★★ Ici l'ombre
| 30m, 13 | Le Rif d'Oriol | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Melody Nelson
Easier than Angel Dust yet difficult to onsight. | 25m, 9 | Céüse | ||
6a | ★★ Les sucettes à l'anis
| 20m | Céüse | ||
7c | ★★★ Vagabond d'occident
Soft for the grade. | 30m, 9 | Céüse | ||
6c+ | ★★ Medecine douce
Not quite the best for a warm up. Share same start as Women. | 20m | Céüse | ||
6a | ★ Sea Sex And Sun
Good climbing leads to a sharp finish. | 20m, 7 | Céüse | ||
6c+ | ★★★ La Reine Des Pommes
1
6c+
2
6b+
Popular candidate for an onsight. | 40m, 2, 18 | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ San Jones Pecos
Classic - bouldery finish. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ Ange
| 30m, 11 | Céüse | ||
6b+ | ★★★ Trous Line
| 30m | Céüse | ||
6b+ | ★★ Comme Des Phoques
Ring bolts, not the fixed hangers a meter away | 20m, 6 | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Blocage Violent
Popular. Tough for the grade. | 28m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ La Rose Des Sables
Beautiful route going straight up the elephant looking pillar. Must do! | 35m | Buoux | ||
6a | ★ A Patrick
| 20m | Céüse | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Pourquoi pas ?
A classic but with a sting in the tail. | 30m | Céüse | ||
6a | ★★ Jardinage a tous les etages
| 25m | Ailefroide | ||
7c+ | ★★★ Mirage
A superb classic. | 27m, 11 | Céüse | ||
6c+ | ★★★ Les ails du desir
| Orpierre | |||
6c | ★★ Bonnye And Clyde
Bouldery start leads to easier climbing. | 20m | Céüse | ||
7b | ★★★ Dietetic Line
Great climbing and low in the grade. | 30m | Céüse | ||
6b+ | ★★★ Le Vol du Pilatus
| 35m | Céüse | ||
6b | ★★ Alambic Sortie Sud
The easiest route here, hence quite popular. | 20m | Buoux | ||
5c | ★ Aquaroc
| Le Rif d'Oriol | |||
6c+ | ★★★ El Daü
The grade depends on your ability to climb on a vertical wall. | 25m, 8 | Céüse | ||
6c+ | ★★★ Les Frontierres du neant
Continuous and a surprise. Set: Jean-Marc Roman, 1996 | 28m, 7 | Chateauvert | ||
7a | ★★ Nitassinan
Very hard start but a great tufa pulling finish. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ Vas-y tonton
1
7a
2
6b+
| 38m, 2, 15 | Céüse | ||
6a+ | ★★ Face d'iguane
| 20m, 9 | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Abolition des Privileges
1
7a+
26m
2
7b+
19m
At L1 anchors continue slightly right and straight up. Legendary boulder problem. Liking the two pitches together is 7c. Set: Serge Jaulin | 45m, 2, 14 | Chateauvert | ||
7c | ★★★ Berlin
Follow the impressive blue streak. Hard for the grade. Set: Eric Fossard, 1989 FFA: Eric Fossard, 1989 | 25m | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★ Tabarnac
1
6b
2
7b+
3
7b+
4
7a+
| 4 | Céüse | ||
6a | ★ Paresse
| 21m, 8 | Orpierre | ||
6a | ★★ Costaud Lulu
| 25m | Orpierre | ||
6b | ★★★ La Snoopy Directe
1
5c
2
6a
3
5c
4
6b
5
6a
6
6a
7
5c
8
6a+
9
6a
Starts 2m left of snoopy, with routes crossing on pitch 8. A more consistent sustained route. 13 quickdraws are sufficient. | 280m, 9 | Ailefroide | ||
6b | ★★ Recréativité
| 28m, 11 | Buoux | ||
6a | ★★ Un panda sur la banquise
| 20m | Céüse | ||
8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche
Popular outing for the grade. Feet optional at the start. Expect to queue for this one! | 20m | Céüse | ||
7b | ★★★ Aller en Chine
| 35m | Céüse | ||
6a+ | ★ L'exterminateur d'cailles
| 25m | Orpierre | ||
6b | ★ Tête d'ampoule
The holds needed to clip the anchors on the top slab are unusable when the rooflet above seeps. | 20m | Céüse | ||
6b+ | ★★ Kachina
| 25m, 13 | Ailefroide | ||
7a | ★★★ La lévrotte
| 35m, 16 | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ||
6b | ★★ Back in black
| 25m | Le Rif d'Oriol | ||
7c+ | ★★★ Makach Walou
| 25m, 7 | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Bibendum
Use the first quickdraw as a hold. | 35m | Céüse | ||
5c | ★ Top moumoute
| 20m | Le Rif d'Oriol | ||
6c | ★★★ L'été indien
| 25m | Ailefroide | ||
6b+ | ★★ Les fils de gauche
| 30m, 10 | Céüse | ||
5a | ★ Canardo
Some grips/steps have a thin layer of mortar as anti-skid. | 31m, 14 | Orpierre | ||
7b | ★★★ No Man's Land
A mega classic and no push over. Start going up and traverse all the way to the right until you reach the anchors under the roof. You can keep going for a 7a+ extension (Methode Rose). | 33m | Buoux | ||
6a | ★ Amelie Melodie
| 25m | Orpierre | ||
5a | ★ Coupe-doigts
| 17m, 7 | Orpierre | ||
6c+ | ★★★ Bleu comme l'enfer
| 30m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ Coconut Shake
Beware of the loose flake left of the 8th bolt. | 30m, 11 | Ailefroide | ||
6b | ★★ Le prince du baquet
| 25m | Le Rif d'Oriol | ||
6a+ | ★★ Afin que Nul ne Meure
1
5c
2
5c
3
5c
4
5c+
5
6a+
A wall of bolts - abseil in and the only way out is to climb. First pitch is the same as for Pichenibule. Set: M. Suhubiette, 1985 | 150m, 5 | Les Gorges du Verdon | ||
7a+ | ★★★ La chevauchee fantastique
1
7a
22m
2
7a+
7m
It has an extension, no second pitch. | 29m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ||
7a | ★★★ Gelati dominiti
A tough start - better not miss the key hold. | 30m, 11 | Céüse | ||
7a+ | ★★ Fracture head
| 25m | Le Rif d'Oriol | ||
6b | ★★ la couronne d'epines
| 25m, 10 | Orpierre | ||
7a | ★★★ Un Pont Sur L'infini
1
7a
2
6c
Can link into a mega pitch with a 70m rope and rethread first pitch anchors to get back down safely. | 40m, 2, 15 | Céüse | ||
7c+ | ★★★ La Femme Noire
Awesome line up the black streak, engaging bolt spacing, seeps a little. | 30m, 11 | Céüse | ||
6c | ★★ Consommez-moi nature
| 18m, 7 | Orpierre | ||
5b | ★★ Écrins total
1
5a
2
4b
3
5b
4
5b
5
4b
6
5b
Very nice climb on granite. 7 Pitches. Very well bolted. P1 5b, P2 4b, P3 5c+, P4 5c, P5 5a, P6 4c, P7 5b+. [Briancon Climbs, Rolland x4, 2015, suggests that this climb is 5b max, 6 pitches and 200m. Having climbed it, I feel the length and pitches are correct, but the grades above seem more reasonable than 5b.] FA: 1997 | 250m, 6 | Ailefroide | ||
7a+ | ★★ 100% collègue
| 30m, 11 | Céüse | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Beau mouvement sur fond bleu
1
7a+
20m
2
7a+
15m
Follow the beautiful blue streak. | 35m, 2, 13 | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Macadam cowboy
1
7a
2
7b+
beautiful colonettes to the first chain, it has an extension. | 29m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ||
8a | ★★★ Petit Tom
Low in the grade. | Céüse | |||
5c | ★★ Chlorochose
1
5b+
2
5c
3
5b+
4
5b
5
5a+
6
5b
7
5b
FA: M. Guyomar & C. Guyomar, 1976 | 150m, 7 | Les Gorges du Verdon | ||
6c+ | ★★ Le torcheur d'elephants
Far right of the crag as the crag starts facing out to the river. Watch for loose blocks. | 25m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ||
6b | ★★ J'en rêve encore
The left facing crack near the right end of this face. | 20m | Rocher Baron | ||
7a | ★★ Je t'aime moi non plus
| 25m | Orpierre | ||
6a | ★★ Koksinel
Nice natural line. Follow the groove up the corner. Superb. | 25m, 8 | Chateauvert | ||
8a | ★★★ Les Colonnettes
The start can be aided which puts the route at a friendlier 7c+. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7c+ | ★★★ Le privilege du serpent
Best route here? Extension is Magnificat 8b. | Céüse | |||
8a | ★★ Bourinator
Two boulder problems on a route. | 30m | Céüse | ||
6a+ | ★★ Comme vous voudrez
| 25m | Le Rif d'Oriol | ||
7b | ★★★ Aziz
| 25m | Le Rif d'Oriol | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Le Moustik Enrage
| 25m | Céüse |