Routes in France for selected grade

The crack. But don't expect to climb the crack.

Fermeture temporaire mai juin 2024Nidification de faucon crécerelle Voie incontournable et la plus accessible de la grande falaise, en dièdre tout du long. Ancienne cotation 5c

Good climbing leads to a sharp finish.

a well protected crack (apart from the start?) leads all the way to the top! take some beers at the end of the day and enjoy the views!

Nice natural line. Follow the groove up the corner. Superb.

Die Route wird von den einen als 2-Seillängen-Route gesehen (vgl. 'duel au soleil (longe)'), von den anderen als 1-Seillängen-Route (diese).

Bei entsprechender Reichweite kann man die Platte mit den Haken fast die gesamte Länge über links & rechts umfassen und ausspreizen, also beide Risse nutzen. Wird nur der Riss rechts der Haken genutzt (mittlerer der 3 Risse), 6a+ und keine besondere Reichweite mehr nötig. Oben stellenweise nicht gut zu greifen i.S. etwas rundlich, teils Sloper, und etwas speckig.

Climbing is varied: finger to fist cracks, offwidth, face with pockets, slab, clambering over trees, etc. every pitch is excellent. Take at least 15 draws, maybe 18. Twin seventies will help with the raps necessary to get to the start of this climb, almost at the bottom of the Gorge. We took 4 hours and 20 minutes of non-stop climbing once we reached the start and started climbing. average time to do this route is about 8-12 hours so this will be your climb for the day. Many pitches can be combined. 6.a but feels harder in places

This is THE major classic in Verdon! Take a small set of friends and nuts.

One of the great multi-pitch classics in the Massif des Calanques. A superb line at a very approachable difficulty. It was immortalized by a famous picture of Gaston Rebuffat as he jumps from one pillar to the other, a memorable step at the beginning of the second pitch.

Approach is from Luminy, via a 1h20min walk on the wide track to Sugiton then take the GR left to the Socle de la Candelle.

Secteur : La Grande Face

Sehr unterschiedlicher Grad und Charakter, ob am Riss (leichter als 6a) oder ohne Riss geklettert.

Technical and athletic. Perfectly bolted.

First follow the thin crack, then sustained on horizontal ledges to a hard technical crux at about half height. After that easy going on huge flakes.

N'utiliser que la fissure, pieds et mains, jusqu’au relais le plus haut (la voie du rien)

The first bolt is quite high. The crack takes a #4 Cam (Big Grey)

The start looks stiffer than it is. Climb left of the bolts, then up the slab and straight in the overhanging section.

L1/5b+ 12 bolts. In the wall, rusty threads and bright areas create the impression bolts have been removed by intention - L1's lower part "Violence et passion" seems to be merged into "Andre Aline Shoot", L1's upper part merged in the other direction.

L2/6a

Can't get lost!