Ascents in Germany by Fabian Michel having sport-cpr or ascent-date

I had to do multiple tries in a row because I was always too cold on the first try. The final successful try felt very good. First 8a even though grading is probably very subjective on this one as the main difficulty is a single move.

Second try today, with kneepad (left leg), which made the kneebar before the crux definitely more relaxing. Switched feet to do the last move of the crux (the dynamic bump with the left to the jug).

Got beta from Caroline de Groot and Dave which made it a lot easier.

Excellent route. The best part is through a compact slightly overhanging part of the wall offering some good crimps. After the bulge, the crux is going from a small two-finger pocket relatively far up to a good hold. I did this move more statically in my third try after I hadn't controlled it very well in the second try and fell. In the first try, I climbed too far in one place and couldn't get the quickdraw in anymore.

Found it hard to read during the onsight. The second try with the right beta felt easy.

Crux from the third to the fifth quickdraw, mostly because of bad feet. The holds were quite good. After the crux, a nice hand jam offers a very good rest and from there, after one more difficult move, it gets easier even though it is still a bit pumpy.

Physical (and excellent) moves at the beginning. Did not feel hard anymore in the third try. I climbed it with the first three bolts pre-clipped which, in retrospect, might not have been necessary. While there is ground fall potential for the first four bolts if you fall while clipping, the clipping positions are actually not too bad. A bit spicy in the onsight, though.

Very nice route, but the crux which starts from the ground and goes up to the second bolt, is not so well protected since the bolts are far to the left of the route. Climbed it with the second bolt pre-clipped. Nice but reachy moves in the boulder, the remaining route is easier but still very good on perfect rock.

Quite dusty in some places, otherwise very good. Few edges, most holds are sloping downward, and not so easy to find.

Very nice route on very nice and compact rock, in particular in the upper part.

Got the last missing beta from Klara R and sent it second try. The first crux felt solid, in the upper crux, I got a total flash pump when reaching for the good pocket on the left and barely could hold onto any of the holds afterwards, but I somehow made it to the anchor. One of the pockets was wet and the route would benefit from more traffic, but it is already quite good.

Hard at the beginning with small holds

Adapted some of Klara R's beta in the second try which made the initial crux easier but the upper crux so hard that I fell. Climbed it with combined beta in the third try.

I was skeptical at first - the wall is quite dusty and water is seeping out of cracks and pockets. It also took me quite some time to figure out a beta in the first try, I was definitely far from onsighting this one. But with the beta worked out, the route was actually really fun.

Very nice route but the pocket at the crux is very polished, which made it hard for me not to slide out of it. Nice crux sequence, though, and the remaining route also offers very nice but easier climbing (maybe 7a) on perfect rock.

Easy dihedral to nice pockets in a slight overhang.

Everything up to and including the crux was perfectly dry with perfect friction, but starting around halfway up the route, some of the holds were unfortunately quite wet. Still did it in my third try, even though I had almost no feeling in my fingers for the last three quickdraws.

The hard part is quite short, with the most difficult move above the last bolt before the anchor.

It took me a few minutes to figure out the initial boulder from the ground. After that, the route is maybe a 6, so it's actually more a boulder (maybe 6C) than a route. My beta (from the ground): take the good hold right of the first bolt with the right, match with the left, then right foot up in order to bump into the sloping half moon with the left which I took as a gaston. Left foot on a relatively good foothold, right foot on best available foothold on right, switch right hand into sidepull on left edge of pocket, left foot to right foot, right foot toehook, reach up to good two finger pocket with left. The hardest part is already over here. Then right foot heelhook on initial hold next to first bolt, right hand into half moon, move hips completely over right heelhook and reach up with right into another good two finger pocket.

Nice climbing on finger pockets, including quite a few monos. Onsight up to the crux, for which I needed a few tries. Sent it in my second try with a high right foot, which enabled me to reach the good mono statically.

One hard move which I did by pinching a bad hold with the right and doing a far move with the left

2nd try today

Nice climbing on an edge which is angled up to the left. The last part (from the second to last bolt to the anchor) is not so good anymore.

First, good holds in a slightly overhanging crack. Then a more inclined part which is easier before a few more meters of vertical to slightly overhanging climbing on sidepulls and underclings.

Balancy climbing on very small crimps in the upper half

With beta from ToxicD

I found this one quite hard in the onsight. You also have to place some nuts, which adds a mental aspect. The cruxes are protected by bolts.

I don't think I would have had any chance to climb the crux (going over a small roof) if I hadn't known the beta already.

Very nice climbing on honeycomb structures

Hard moves one after another. The final beta in the third try felt quite good actually, this one would be doable in enough tries.

Endurance route, in particular the upper half, on small crimps, very slightly overhanging at the beginning. There is an initial crux at the second bolt which includes the hardest sequence of the route for me. After shaking on jugs, another difficult sequence ends with an almost jump (my left foot could just stay on the hold), but you can probably avoid this move with a crimp on the right. You get to another rest position before the final endurance section with bad rests. It starts with a short difficult part, then a continuous section on small crimps, ending with a hard move up into an undercling. From there you can reach a sloper and I do a very far move up to the left to a good hold. After two more crimps with the right and a sloping gaston pocket above the edge with the left, you can reach a jug with the right, which is basically invisible from below. Could do all the moves very quickly in the first try, but after a break and eating some food, I suddenly had almost no strength left and could only climb from bolt to bolt in the second and third try. Definitely worth trying again.

Could do all the moves today, including the crux move. Beta: after reaching the two finger pocket at the lower end of the sidepull with the left hand, match with right hand just above and take the good upper part of the sidepull with the left. Go up to the bad crimp with the right hand. Left foot on the good foothold just below the sidepull, left hand to bad two finger crimp above and left of the right hand, right foot on good but polished foothold at about the height of the left foot. Dynamic deadpoint move with the left hand to relatively good incut hold for two to three fingers. Full crimp, right foot just right of left foot, left foot up, right hand to good crimp just right of left hand, left foot to relatively good foothold where the wall changes angles. Left hand to gaston two finger pocket up left, the next hold for the right hand is a very good slot. The route is possibly doable, but I don't know yet how the crux will feel coming from below, and the crux move might also not work very consistently.

A bit hard for warming up but since I knew the route already, it was fine.