Ascents in Unteres Trubachtal by Christoph Rauch having sport-cpr or ascent-date

Pumpy sidepull action. Probably much harder if there's no chalk on the holds. Good moves.

Easy start, then an awkward clip where the overhang starts. Had to clip it while sitting like a frog on a sort of tufa-like rail (no real tufa, of course, we don't get that here). From there it's really athletic and dynamic climbing, fortunately I guessed the combination right.

Even though it didn't feel too good, I somehow made my way up to the last bolt, which gave me the courage to push on and finish it. I somehow intuitively chose the correct sequence at the top, turned out great.

Unusually crisp crimps all the way, with quite a few difficult, beautiful moves, but also some bigger holds to rest a bit in between. Felt like climbing on a lush evening in the Mediterranean.

High first and especially second bolt. There are options for mobile protection, but you shouldn't sling the loose block on the ledge. ;-) Also, you can quite safely reach the second bolt from the right. Tough moves directly after that bolt, but the real crux comes shortly before the anchor in the steep overhang with small pockets and mediocre feet.

Started via "Direkte Talwand" to be able to do it in one pitch. The difficulty is the second pitch starting from the diagonal ledge of "Alte Talwand". Great moves, quite sustained and not easy to read. Good footwork necessary, too.

Nice wall climbing, quite flowy and homogeneous. Challenging until the end.

Reached the anchor by the skin of my teeth. Athletic moves, partly dynamic, the rock quality up there is better than expected. The bolts are a bit shabby.

Phew, what a ride. Started from the top of LLL. Actually wanted to do Safari, but the runout to the first bolt out of LLL seemed sketchy. Luckily enough I had extended most of the draws in the lower part, that‘s paramount if you want to climb it in a single pitch. What follows is first another thin slab passage ending in two greasy holds from which you burst out to a jug. Some more pumpy moves get you to a slopery rail which is hard to negotiate. Read it correctly, though, so I could reach up left to some good holds and pull myself up onto the ledge. Only to realise there‘s still a few meters to climb, with a bulge directly above the ledge, so no footholds and only small, mediocre pockets. Took my time and then committed. Nice topout, rewarding!

Really a great route, minus one star for the brittle traverse. The second pitch is fantastic.

Fantastic wall climbing with two little drawbacks: the dirty blocks/ledge after the first bolt (I went a bit to the right because it felt safer), and the runout to the final headwall (especially because the massive flake you use to get up to the bolt is moving …). Other than that, impeccable rock quality, tricky moves, not a single speck of chalk on the holds, pure onsighting terrain. Challenging and certainly not 8- due to the tough crux in the middle.

Good route. The lower section seems to be hard, but isn't, really. Easy middle section, then gears switched after the drilled rock tunnel. Sustained from there to the top (if you don't bail to the left). Delicate sloper passage above the last bolt.

Tricky to get onto the arête. Tried a few times directly over the bolt, but then realized I could just pull up onto the slab, rock over onto the good foothold and cross to the jug directly on the arête. Not too hard for the grade this way, but I guess it's fair game.

The choss is there, no question, but the climbing is pretty elegant and most of the blocky stuff has already been ripped off, so you're left with relatively solid structures. One bolt in the middle sits in a hollow section of rock, though, a little suboptimal but no deal-breaker I guess. The crux comes high up, around the last bolt. Quite homogeneous, nice route.

Quite good! The first bolt can be nicely clipped from the left. Crux is right there after that bolt. It's still not over, though. The bolt after the big ring is a bit hard to clip, but then protects the bulge nicely, and the final section gets you into an airy, exposed position.

Fumbled around a bit in the first difficult part with the sidepulls. From there on it went smoothly through the undercling passage and into the final crux, which I took on a bit on the left. Then it turned out I couldn't reach the obvious hold statically from my position so I bumped over, only to realise I want to be there with my other hand. Switching hands pumped me up so hard I almost fell off the tricky (and at first glance holdless) top section. Still a few loose bits in the route, take care.

Another route whose upper part I already climbed, but don't remember. The crux is the slab at the start, though, so I guess I can get away with claiming the onsight. Funky double mono passage, then a little runout to the roof. From there it's quite flowy over the overhangs and through the final wall. Great route all in all, but shabby bolts (especially the first). #lastrouteoftheday

Don't climb this if you're allergic to apparently weird bolting. I can only assume the first ascensionists used some tricks to do the moves from the first bolt (which was used as a belay originally) bolt-/pegless, like throwing a sling over the protruding chock. Nowadays, a small cam is probably helpful if you don't want to risk falling onto the ledge. Easier middle section, then another dihedral with few holds and the possibility of falling onto a ledge, but less of an issue there. The climbing is good, though, if you can look past that. I had already climbed the start of pitch 2 when doing Friedl Cramer a few years back. My intention back then had been to climb the finish the way we did today, but there was grass in the key hold. I removed that grass and a little dirt when abseiling today, so I could give it another go. But still, I must say that even without the grass, and probably also without the grass in the other holds further to the left, this final wall is quite certainly harder than 7+. The rock quality is perfect, but the holds are bad and the footholds even worse. Even reaching the key hold to start the traverse might already be harder.

Brilliant layback climbing with quite a few barn door moments for myself. Pumpy, because most of the holds are only mediocre with no big incut or none at all.

Quite a bit harder than the original line "Nix wie weg!", but also the better finish, much more homogeneous. The moves over the overhang are hard for smaller people (luckily I'm not that small) and you can only guess where the good holds are. Had to juggle around a bit and got quite pumped before I could reach the saving jug.

Neat climb along the obvious features, on pockets, crimpers, and sidepulls. Crux for me was at the end of the layback, almost lost my cool. Easier but still delicate to the top.

The hard moves to the anchor almost threw me off because I chose to use the wrong hand for the key hold. Crimps and small, crimp-like pockets, good movements, similar to its left neighbour.

The lower part has a hard section around the third bolt, then a tricky little layback/dihedral that has certainly been climbed in the old days already. The upper part is also an old aid route that hasn't found its way into the guide books. When climbed freely, the crux is to find some footholds (a bit crumbly there) to bump your way up to the better holds.

The bolts sit in the wrong places on this one, maybe so that they're not so close to the ones of "Superschneck" (or the rock quality wasn't good enough further left). Makes it a bit confusing, though, I always tried to go direct or on the right first, then had to back up and succeed on the left. Again the crux is up high, technical wall section with an awesome undercling move.

Great layback climbing with a crux before the book case. A small cam and/or nut is sensible before the third bolt. Towards the top, you need to step to the right onto a massive hollow block. Feels a bit weird, but it seems to be solid enough.

Not something you're leading more than once if you don't have to. The bolt distances by itself aren't dangerous, but there's a tree that has been happily growing for the last 20 years. Somebody cut it down at some point, but not at the base, so if you take a fall in the runouts, you might end up on the trunk. Should be cut down completely. Otherwise good route, quite sustained with lots of difficult passages quite high above the bolts. One nasty razor sharp crimp.

Nice slab on slopers and some sidepulls. Funny blobby sloper pinches before the last bolt.

Once I had the kneebar, it took me a while to get my hands where they should be, but then it felt quite easy. Good route with one short hard passage.

Nice line with ridiculous jugs in the overhang, but then some technical climbing above that can throw you off.

Quite nasty start. Once you've found the holds, it's manageable, but still tough. I should have trusted the bolt positioning, which leads you to the left after the third bolt, but since the route continues on the right in the upper part, I went directly up over the blocky, overhanging dihedral, which requires some care around a big hollow block. The top part is actually quite spectacular and exposed, up the airy arête.

Fantastic wall climbing, varied and demanding, but rather 8- all in all for me (might be 8 for short people). Crack section at the start, then an easier but nice technical section on edges followed by a short bulge that leads to the crux overhang. Bold clip, then hard to find the pockets, a reachy move up left and a few more meters which are a bit hard to read. Great #lastrouteoftheday!

Another good route, more bolts than in the other routes here. Nice wall climbing to the overhanging arête, then probably multiple solutions to get to the top. I went up along the arête, then stepped out left onto the slab and carefully balanced it so that I could stand up.

Fantastic and original climb through the highest portion of the east/north-east face along the obvious cracks and roughly following the two remarkable diagonal breaks. Crux quite far down between the first two Bühler bolts, tricky and hard to read (even though there was already chalk on the holds). The old pegs were replaced with new bolts carefully and sensibly.

Relatively easy to the ledge (bolt above can be clipped easily), then about 5 hard moves into the upper wall. Easier to the top.

Still has quite a few of the old pegs (one of them cemented into the wall) from the days of aid climbing, so the protection is more than perfect (it does have enough shiny, trusty bolts, too ). After the good rest in the middle, there's a very technical crux along a thin crack line which involves lots of good footwork and balance, but also some endurance in the fingers. Once the crack opens into a good layback, it's basically over, but still interesting climbing.

Good wall climbing with an interesting traverse in good rock. Careful with the flake towards the anchor, though.

Tiny holds in the crux lead to a monstrous jug, then pumpy moves to the top. Quite steep, too!

A bit sad that the finish of this makes the whole route a bit inhomogeneous, but still a nice lower part on pockets, crimpers and layback moves.

Tricky wall climbing. You can make your life quite hard if you try to force a direct line. Stay low in the traverse, then keep right up to the jugs.

Directly through the overhang where "Lindenweg" pulls away to the left. Tricky moves on smallish holds in great rock quality.

Phenomenal overhanging crack dihedral with mediocre jams (my right hand and arm was numb for a while after) lead to a narrow ledge on which you crawl on your belly to a belay. The big ledge that is the second pitch (easy and leads to the finish of “Alte Talseite” is quite overgrown and didn’t look too appealing, so we chose the left-hand finish, but at the very top I went straight up via “Walzerschritt” which reduces rope drag. Fantastically exposed traverse around the arête before the final headwall! There’s an abseil ring at the summit. A 50 m rope gets you down with two abseils (to the first belay after the crawl ledge and from there to the ground).

Solid rock, natural line, cool hold shapes. But wow, what a beast. Unusual and awkward body positions, bad sidepulls in the crack, quite hard to read. Might indeed be comparable a bit to "Johannisriss", but the latter is still a bit harder and more desperate, so I guess if that one's 8-, then 7+ fits here.

Most definitely harder than 7+. Difficult dihedral to a jug below the rooflet, but you need to stand up again before being able to clip the next bolt, feels scary. Then a big move to the right into a jug, followed by a struggle to gain some good holds with the only footholds being quite high up. Easier top section. Very rough rock, though, feels like it was bolted yesterday.

Starts up laybacking to the arête, then easier to the big cave. Small, mediocre crimps and a dynamic moves get you back into easier terrain, but with a solid runout in the end. Rewarding!

Relaxed and nice crack and face climbing in the first half, then a difficult and strenuous dihedral to the rooflet. Shares the runout with its left neighbour, but felt a tad easier coming from the right.

Hard start, then relatively homogeneous (around 6+) after the second bolt. #lastrouteoftheday

A bit contrived. Hard section along the pillar in the lower part on small pockets, then easy up to the little roof. I climbed the roof slightly on the left and then traversed back in at the last bolt to reach the anchor. Leans strongly towards 8. If you climb the roof directly, it's probably way harder.

Long, technical, with some hollow and loose bits here and there. Great climb if you can deal with it. The tough direct finish almost killed my onsight!

The first bolt is hard to clip. Crux is to get over the third bolt, technical and a bit reachy.

The line is a bit weak, you can make it easier but also harder in various places. The climbing is good, though.