Ascents in Fürther Wand having Beta

This old project seems to have been climbed a while ago already. No more project sling in the first bolt and the holds are quite chalked. Nice addition to the wall! Good technical wall climbing in black rock with a no-hands rest on the ledge. The finish is hard to read!

Still fantastic. Pumpy (sloper) jug fest. #rawpower #lastrouteoftheday #repeat

For something that was originally practised on top rope before even putting bolts in, the protection seems quite bad. However, if you take a dragon cam 0 (or two to be sure; a mediocre number 1 is also possible), you can protect the runout to the third bolt and not risk a ground fall. Still, it's better if there's a longer draw in the bolt already. The actual crux is then to get past that bolt. Here, it's understandable that the next bolt is again far away, because you don't have a chance to clip anyway. Falling should also be fine, you won't crash into the slab. The rest is easier on sloping pockets. I removed the thorn bush below the anchor today.

Still tricky the second time around. Jammed the section to/past the last bolt. #repeat

Good line. If you bring some cams, the protection is also fine. Tricky! Slightly brittle towards the end. Extended via the finish of "aha-Pfeiler" (which is really the only good part of that route). #warmup

Seems like this one's relatively neglected, even for Fürther Wand standards. Don't really know why, though. It's a bit shorter than the other routes and less homogeneous, but if you like bouldery routes, it's another quality offering. Crux is obviously at the bulge after the nice clipping jug, on slopers and shallow crimps. The upper part is airy, but easier (especially once you've brushed the lichen off the bowl-like holds). The first bolt is a bit awkward to clip, starting from the right is sensible. Also, a red or yellow cam might be sensible before the second bolt. #warmup

Hesitated in the crux up to the moment where I had to do something to not fall off. Strangely enough, it worked. ;-) The finish is really enjoyable, quite like the upper part in "Schildkröte".

Great slab line with a distinct crux at the third bolt. Otherwise quite homogeneous and a beautiful route.

Brilliant vertical bath tub bridging and stemming. Reachy move to a crimp from the faint crack (I jumped to it …), followed by said technique fest in the "dihedral", and an endurance finish on good, but hard to see holds.

Didn't feel too hard to me, but fell in my flash attempt after the crux … my left foot slipped and I barndoored.

Almost ruined the second go by breaking off the edge of a small flake just below the big, fragile sidepull for the right hand in the upper part (please be gentle with that one, it'll certainly break out someday and make the route much harder). Nice sequence on the arête where it branches off from "Laser", and another nice sequence where it merges left into "Silent Running".

The protection can be backed up with a green (before the first bolt) and yellow (after the last bolt before the big ledge) dragon cam. Nice offwidth crack passage in between. The last few meters over the last bulges are recommended for the nice, solid, black rock.

Looks good from below: directly over the pillar. Turns out to be a bit awkward, though. Hard passage at the third bolt (possibly due to broken holds), then on crumbly jugs over the last bulge. You can make it more enjoyable by climbing to the top via the last two bolts of "Frank und frei" in perfect rock.

Still brutally hard for the grade, especially for small people.

Onsight from the third bolt on; unusual climbing, but quite nice. Loose rock at the top, better lower below the ledge.

Wow, what a nice route. Sustained climbing on shallow dents with the occasional jug. First ascent supposedly on top rope, original grade 7+, but for today's standards, I'd give it a solid 8-.

Hard

FFA.

FFA.