Showing all 29 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8 Hard | ★★ Panta Rhei — 2 attempts | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Auch wieder richtig gut! Der Weg durch den Bauch muss gefunden werden. 8/8+ für mich.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Kuchen & Bier | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#First_ascent Kleingriffig durch das Doppeldächlein und danach auch nicht leicht. Bewertungsvorschlag 9-.
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8+ ~8- | ★★ The Dude Abides | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Absolut gut oben raus. Denke eher die Panta Rhei ist 8+!
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8+ | ★★ The Dude Abides - with Jürgen | 16m | |||||
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Granatsplitter | 20m, 8 | |||||
#First_ascent. Links vom „Alten Weg “ (Markanter Riss ab halber Wandhöhe) über plattigen Einstieg und anschließenden Bäuchlein links vom genannten Riss hoch. Nach dem Bäuchlein schöne Lochkletterei wobei ungeplant ein kleiner Runout entstanden ist. Teilt sich die Einstiegsplatte mit der Route „Sommerferien“, welche ab der Wandteilung auf halber höhe eher links (Sanduhrschlinge) überhängend hoch zieht. Achtung, hier ist nicht alles Fest!
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7 | ★★ Sommerferien | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
#First_ascent. Links vom „Alten Weg “ (Markanter gr. Riss ab halber Wandhöhe) Plattiger Einstieg geteilt mit der Route „Granatsplitter“. Auf ca. halber Wandhöhe (Markante Querteilung der Wand) gehts leicht rechts in den „Granatsplitter“ und leicht links durch überhängende Wand (dort gr. Sanduhrschlinge) in die „Sommerferien“. Schwere Stelle aus dem Überhang heraus. Nach dem Überhang kleiner Runout, der durch Totem lila o. gelb in markanten Riss beseitigt werden kann, aber nicht muss. Danach schöne kleingriffige Wandkletterei! Auch hier ist nicht alles Fest.
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Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8- | Heidi Line | Average | |||||
nur die Crux bis zum 2.Haken ausgecheckt. Undankbar für Kleine.
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8 | ★★ Panta Rhei | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
der obere Teil entschädigt für den unteren
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8+ | ★★ The Dude Abides | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
rechts oder doch lieber links vom Haken am Wulst?
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Sun 23rd Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8- | ★★ Spiel der Geister - with Christoph Rauch | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did not try the crux moves on the last few metres, but the rest is fun bouldery climbing on crimps and then bigger holds. Sometimes wide reaching is necessary to get the next hold, but did not feel too far away, even for a small person like me.
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8 | ★★ Panta Rhei - with Jenny | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really good climbing, especially in the upper part. The crux moves are directly at the bulge, but then it's still interesting and sustained.
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8+ | ★★ The Dude Abides - with David X | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting boulder over the bulge with good moves involving high feet. The rest is quite a bit easier, but enjoyable.
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6+ | Unnamed 1 - with David X | 16m | Average | ||||
Easy start up the mossy ledges, then either chimney moves or directly over the pillar and with some bridging in good rock to the anchor. Lots of vegetation, unfortunately, I removed some of it.
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7- | Frankenjoggers Schultüte - with David X | 17m | Average | ||||
Like for "Moralix", the start was a little overgrown, so I had to do some gardening before being able to climb this. Now the start is okay to climb when dry. Good placement for a pink cam before the first bolt. The line is probably meant to be climbed directly over the slab, but I kept a bit to the left and put a nut into the crack before driving out right to the bolt again. There's a half-rotten sling after the second bolt, which I backed up with a small nut. The actual climbing is good, but the protection somehow invites you to divert from the slab, especially when the lichen hasn't been brushed off the holds beforehand.
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6+ | ★ Unnamed 2 - with Bovist | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
6+ | ★ Unnamed 2 - with Bovist | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
#takedownbitch :-D
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Sun 3rd May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
6 6- | ★ Moralix - with Bovist | 17m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Quite nice, great line. Had to do some gardening on the first few meters to make it climbable again, probably hasn't seen an ascent in years. The route itself is a crack line that runs out after about 10 meters and culminates in a spicy vertical section with small holds. I'd say it's more like 6 than 6-. The hard section starts before the one and only bolt, so as the name suggests, you should have the morale to trust your gear. The crack is easily protected, and there are some good placements for small nuts before the bolt.
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8- | ★ Lochfraß - with Bovist | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Quite close to the classic dihedral, but a worthwhile climb if you stick to the line. Not especially homogeneous, since the difficulties start in the last third of the climb, but those few hard meters are quite interesting, with a nice overhanging finish.
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8- | ★★ Rote Gefahr - with Bovist | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fits my style of climbing quite well. Vertical in good rock, good moves, and some rest positions. I already "knew" the last few meters from the route to the right, but again made the same mistakes and almost fell off before the last bolt; there's an anchor at the very top, so do yourself the favour and enjoy the view!
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8- | Ultrakorregd - with Bovist | 14m | |||||
Another route here, unfortunately, where the protection is quite stupid. The second bolt is placed out of reach just above a hollow, chossy flake, and clipping it isn't exactly easy even if you trust the rock, so if you fail, you're back on the ground again. On the way to the third bolt, I broke off a seemingly solid foothold and fell off. Had a hard time finding a way to clip the third bolt, which is again too high, but no longer dangerous. I bailed after reaching that bolt and seeing that the most important hold afterwards was total choss. The climbing itself is actually quite good, but the rock quality and protection didn't let me enjoy it enough to get to the top.
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Wed 29th Apr 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8+ 8+ to 9- | ★★ Immerwährende Veränderung - with Alex | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Despite the name, there's no choss in this route. On the contrary, good rock and nice moves, still quite rough. First crux at the bulge with slopy crimpers, second is finding your way through the overhang on smallish holds. Closer to 8+ than 9- I guess.
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7 | ★ Schwarzer Zorn - with Alex | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Ok, normally I don't mind, but the second bolt here is stupid. You have to do a quite irreversible move to clip it and failing that move or falling before you can clip would bring you back to the ground or lower. Well, actually you could do without the first bolt and put it above the jug rail. Like this, it's better to do "Alp(en)traum" or "Leykauf Gedenkweg" first and put a long sling into the second bolt, if you're not absolutely sure. The climbing itself is also quite demanding. Going slightly left after the third bolt is probably easier (I missed the opportunity) and you can put a nut into the nicely shaped crack there. The diagonal traverse into "Alp(en)traum" is fun!
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7- | ★★ Alp(en)traum - with Alex | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really really good. Ridiculous flakes, brilliant hold shapes and phenomenal rock in the upper part. The protection is quite spicy, though (well, I like that, but you know how it is); better not fall off when clipping the second bolt. Shouldn't be a problem, though. But please be careful with the structures, some of them are quite fragile.
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7+ | ★ Natwürmli - with Alex | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good route next to the dihedral; hard for the grade; lots of small pockets and crimps, interesting moves on underclings.
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5+ | ★★ Leykauf Gedenkweg - with Alex | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could go on like this for a few hundred meters. Great dihedral. Only two bolts, but lots of good placements (the big crack only takes quite large cams, though, so better take slings for the chocks and smaller nuts). Felt easier than 5+, but I didn't concentrate too much on the difficulty as I was enjoying myself.
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Sat 6th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8- | ★★ Spiel der Geister - with Bovist | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool moves on a big undercling flake in the lower part, then the logical line unfortunately leads you very close to the left neighbour, just to move away to the right again. Crux for me was just after the piton where the route merges with "Rote Gefahr", it looks a bit like a hold broke here a while ago.
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6+ | ★ Unnamed 2 - with Bovist | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool layback moves, then slightly athletic to the no-hand rest and then easy exit (probably a bit harder if you go directly to the anchor through the overhang).
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Fri 27th Aug 1999 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Panta Rhei | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
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8- | Heidi Line | ★ Good | |||||
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Showing all 29 ascents.