Ascents in Morgenleite

Certainly not done quite often, because it starts from the ledge after the first pitch of "Schiefer Riss". Nevertheless some tick marks, but the rock was extremely rough. Slightly brittle in some places. A technical slab is followed by a powerful overhang. The second to last bolt is hard to clip, had to climb above it before I could do it, but that's fine. Still hard to get to the anchor from there, took me some time. Worthwhile.

2nd go. Great climbing!

FFA. Zusammen mit Tom Bösl

Luckily there was a long sling in the second bolt after the ledge!

Short finish variant to "Schlaumeier".

Easy dihedral start, a walk over the dirty ledge, then two harder moves followed by an easy traverse along the slab. I have no idea why the bolt in the crux is where it is. I clipped the good peg instead. Even though there's a long, fixed sling in the bolt, it's more comfortable to use the peg.

FFA. zusammen mit Tom Bösl

The start of the first pitch, the actual "Schiefer Riss", is fun, but the rest of the way to the belay (you can use the belay bolt of "Road to Perdition") is a jungle of moss, choss and dirt. The second pitch really makes up for that, though. Brilliant offwidth crack/chimney with great rock quality and even some protection (a red cam and a rock tunnel at the beginning, then two rusty pegs, and two little trees at the end). Nice view from the top.

#repeat Sadly, the upper part has been bolted and the little trees sawed off. Now many people probably climb the chimney on the outside, because they're protected by shiny bolts, even though you could (and should!) stay on the inside and fight your way up; you can't really fall down anyway.

First pitch is adventurous. Very exhausting chimney at the second pitch. Hustle yourself 20cm up and sink back a few cm again. Repeat. Good tour.

Erste Wiederholung der Tour

Im 2nd Go 💪 und wahrscheinlich meine erste echte 8+ im Frankenjura 🙃🤙🥳