Ascents in Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände having Beta

Mal Reingeschaut.

Eher leicht im Grad für mich, wenn gut angeschaut und nicht zu viel Luftfeuchte. Erst Riss/Schuppe bis zum dritten Haken, dort beinahe Nohandrest. Von dort weite Züge mit hohen abgelutschten Tritten an Henkellöchern. Schwerere „traverse“ zum fünften Haken an abgelutschten, etwas kleineren Griffen, dann Henkel zum Ausstieg. Fast geflashed, dann 4 Versuche verschenkt, weil Mono für die traverse übersehen. Im Fünften dann trotz Schwüle bei 31 grad durchgestiegen.

Vor dem ersten Haken, grüner/lila Totem, nach dem letzten roter Totem. Bei >90% Luftfeuchte kein Geschenk.

Nice rock structure with one harder place.

Zwei mal rausgeflutscht.

Direkt über die Haken. Ronout durch Keile entschschärft.

One hang in the crux because I didn't think about the beta enough and made a wrong move.

Speechless

#2go Cruxy. Direct, ie. high foot with slopy sidepull

#ffa

Richtig gute Route mit hohem ersten Haken. Genuss!

Anspruchsvoll, knifflig und die letzte Express Schlinge ist schwer einzuhängen. Flugstunden inklusive.

Erste exe vorgeklippt. Schöner Piaz.

Pumpig!

Richtig pumpige offene Riss strukturen. Hab da keinen perfekten Handriss gefunden.

Auch ne super Tour. Knifflige Verschneidung, die in einer schönen Querung endet.

Warmup.

coole tour, ich komme wieder

Enjoyed the evening sun with the brilliant view over the Wiesent valley. #repeat

Flashed up to the last bolt, failed getting to the anchor. There's an invisible hold a bit left, but I assume there was a good hold directly in the dihedral which broke off. At least that's my impression from reading old comments about the route. Bummer. Nice climbing, though, but not as good as the old "Südostkante".

Arrived here half an hour before dusk and quickly cleaned this as a #warmup.

Weite Abstände.

2nd go. Direkte Variante, den Chalkspuren nach gibt es auch eine sehr weit links raus. Sicher tricky to onsight. Auf einem runden Tritt gestanden und über runden Seitengriff, dann sehr weit nach rechts hoch.

Nicht besonders gut abgesichert. Sonst 'ne schöne Tour.

First two quickdraws were extended, I was very happy about that, first bolt is quite high and I wouldn't want to fall on the way to the second one.. Got really pumped but fought through That was really awesome

Also very nice!

Placed two nuts on my own in this route, I have not done that in a while, but good for the head. Really cool #warmup, interesting rock in the lower half.

First two quickdraws pre-clipped, so I could enjoy the start (which is quite polished). Enjoyed the way to the second bolt, lots of hand and underarm jamming. But I just couldn't make my way to the third bolt and retreated after several tries. Fantastic though!

#repeat

#repeat

#repeat

Aaaand again. I will never get tired of climbing this one. :-D #repeat

#repeat

#repeat #lastrouteoftheday Didn't find any polished footholds as mentioned by Daniel, but then again, it was already getting dark.

#repeat #warmup

Tried the upper crux on top rope, but still didn't find any solution. I found a way to get to the two crimps, but then already gaining the two-finger pocket above is too hard from the body positions I'm in.

Wanted to put a top rope into "Katapult". Messed up the sequence again, forgot about the high right foot. Went from the last bolt directly into the finish of "Katapult", which turned out to be still quite the challenge.

Powerful and hard for the grade.

Greasy

Runout

First 9- in Germany

#2go close to onsight... Quite scary above 2nd bolt

A real offwidth! In Saxony, you would probably say "geht auf rechts", so stick your right arm and leg in and start wiggling! A yellow cam at the start of the crack and a blue one below the bolt are nice to have, though. After the bolt, you can now get fully into the crack again, because I removed the (rest of the) tree that was stuck in the route on abseil. Has no anchor, and soon the tree stumps on top will be too bad as well …