Ascents in Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände

Terrific rock quality, smooth climbing, really enjoyable, could go on like this for a few hundred meters.

#repeat

Placed two nuts on my own in this route, I have not done that in a while, but good for the head. Really cool #warmup, interesting rock in the lower half.

Weite Abstände.

Enjoyed the evening sun with the brilliant view over the Wiesent valley. #repeat

1 Hänger

FFA.

2nd go

Difficulty gradually increases and reaches its pinnacle at the second to last bolt. Took a few bigger falls there before finding a good sequence (heel hook!)

Messed up the part leading up to the crux and had to rearrange hands, so I didn't have enough power left to flag and grab the strange pocket on the left … all in all a very good route, but I like the moves in "Sautanz" better.

8 Versuche über 3 Tage verteilt. Superschöner Klassiker! Nicht abschrecken lassen vom ersten Haken, das geht ganz gut (außer du bist unter 170cm, dann wirst du sehr froh sein, wenn die erste exe hängt). Crux zwischen dritten und vierten Haken zum Seitgriff hin und von diesem weg. Für mich deutlich leichter als die linken Nachbarn...

Didn't remember anything so I fell in the crux at the big sidepull. Took a few good whippers before I spotted the key foothold and found a smooth sequence that almost felt too easy.

Foot slipped slightly twice, but other than that it was a nice go. Easy, delightful slab to the high first bolt, then good pockets to a huge crimp. In the crux section up high, I hooked quite far to the right on a horn, then reached left into the good sidepull, right hand in the mediocre pocket below the sidepull, rearrange feet (left foot high) to grab the two-finger sidepull on the left. Rearrange feet again, right foot high up to the little nose, rockover and grab the sidepull. Once you have the good pocket next to the bolt, it's over. Huge pockets to the top.

Great wall climbing, pretty sustained and mentally challenging. Lots of small holds in all sorts of shapes.

After a strenuous start, the runout to the second bolt isn't too bad. After that it's pockets typical for this section of the wall, but at one point, with your feet one meter above the last bolt, it suddenly stops. You have to jump to the jugs, but I didn't dare to do it at first try. Wouldn't have worked, anyway. I tried a few times but always got the pocket in a place where it was totally wet, so I gave up for the time being.

Took a huge fall in the crux. Seems hard, but worth another try!

Figured out I didn't even need to jump. Why did I just believe what the Schwertner guide says? There's a good sidepull on the left with a matching foothold to reach up to it. Massive bolt distances above the crux, gotta keep it together.

Put a sling into the bolt after the crux and some more draws in the anchor. Probably wouldn't have been necessary, but slightly puts your mind at ease. Massive drops still possible. No problems this time, felt almost easy (except my heart skipped a beat when I slipped off a hold just before clipping the draws in the anchor).

Wanted to put a top rope into "Katapult". Messed up the sequence again, forgot about the high right foot. Went from the last bolt directly into the finish of "Katapult", which turned out to be still quite the challenge.

Knorke kletterei;) beste wandneigung um hauptsächlich mit einer hand zum klettern:) soo nice!

Tricky stelle oben mit coolen schluss mantle:)

Runout

Anspruchsvoll, knifflig und die letzte Express Schlinge ist schwer einzuhängen. Flugstunden inklusive.

Zwei mal rausgeflutscht.

Vor dem ersten Haken, grüner/lila Totem, nach dem letzten roter Totem. Bei >90% Luftfeuchte kein Geschenk.

Mal Reingeschaut.