Ascents in Pottenstein having Beta

2nd go

same crux as Nautilus but the first part is harder

FFA.

Perfect Beta from Leander

last climb of the FJ trip with Jon!

#2go

#2go

#2go More or less only hard to get the potato right and then a few committing moves till you get into the end of 'Stromlinie', proud about sending this popular boulder within 2 tries; something you don't see that often that this part of the wall is completely dry

Should have been an onsight as I've been falling off with sweaty fingers during this hot and humid day on the last hard move... managed to fall there once more and did a successful "3er-Satz" by sending it with shaky legs the 3rd try withiut a break in between;) supaguad

Good onsight go with the head in front of the chains but then, I threw another 3 goes in this bouldery polished tension wonder... harder, trickier and better than it looks;)

FFA.

1xbouldern, dann drei Gos

2x ausgebouldert

Route deutlich schwerer als 9+

#2go High expectations because quite a few people recommended me this beauty for onsighting but I messed it up on the last move to the jug... took a bad mono pinch for the right hand in the end and took the jug with the left hand! One of the best 7c+ in Franken:)

#2go Messed up the onsight on the last move to the jug... Fitness-Test

#2go good moves, but never 8a

#2go hard, fingery moves

FFA.

Easy first half, then an overhanging arête going up and right. Didn't do one of the moves, but I also had to stop in my second try because my left index finger split.

Guide book says 10- after a hold broke. Seemed impossible after the fourth draw with bad holds and bad feet in an extremely overhanging prow.

Massive overhang, relatively good holds, great moves, lots of hooking possibilities in the beginning. Needed some time to figure out some sections, but overall it went quite well! After the last bolt, you can take quite a big fall if you don't manage to pull through to the jug next to the anchor.

Slipped off a wet foothold just after the second bolt. Wouldn't have had a chance to send it, anyway. Needs much more endurance than I have at the moment.

Endlich mol wieda an gscheidn flow ghabt und fast alles bei der oberarmpumpe perfekt dawuschn 5 sterne!

#2go Destroyed skin, tired arms and humid condis didn't made it easier;) somehow got enough 'Kraft' to find a crazy hook beta for the crux and got totally pumped afterwards! Overhyped!!

#2go 7c/+ one move from bad 2 finger crimp :p

Skipped a move or two in the boulder at the start because the underclings were wet and slimy. The upper part is brilliant, and when you think it's over, you end up in the seemingly holdless crux. Took me a while to figure out a sequence.

Fantastic endurance piece. I first had the impression that the crux would be at the fourth bolt, but actually a little dyno gets you through that passage. Brilliant, flowy climbing up to the bulge with the big ring. Had to call it a day there after a dozen tries. Hints welcome! So far, I grab the undercling with the left, cross over into the narrow pocket with the right hand, grab the horn out left and bump to a sidepull with the right. I can freely position my feet in that position, but I have yet to figure out how to continue.

full power endurance 💪

2x ausgebouldert und 2 Gos

Heute noch einmal ausgebouldert und dann im 4. Go des Tages geklettert (in Summe 3x ausbouldern und 6 Gos)

Ein harter Boulderzug am Start, ohne Trittsteine!!!

Only the 30th ascent of this old, alpine aid classic! I'm not really sure this has been freed following the original line, or at least it changed so much over the years due to the bad rock quality that it's hardly imaginable today. Also, I almost suspect that the protection of the start has become worse over the years. The Bühler guide speaks of a "series of bolts/pegs" in the traverse, but there's only one expansion bolt (or alternatiely a rusty peg further down, but also quite far away), one glue-in of a project, and two Bühler bolts further down that seemingly belong to "Affencliff". In the current state, it's quite daring because the huge, but very thin flake between the first bolt and the expansion bolt is extremely brittle and hollow, so you can't sensibly put any protection in. I almost gave up, but then tried with a little rope tension to ease the mind and it barely worked out. Used the two Bühlers from "Affencliff" with rope tension, too, then worked my way up to the first belay. From there, it's actually climbable rock; still brittle, but manageable and along a relatively obvious line with nice climbing. Second belay with fantastic exposure in the upper cave, which was obviously home to some bigger bird in years past. The last pitch merges into the finish of "Alter Weg". It took us around 2,5 hours start to finish (including a period of desperation at the first bolt). Only 20 minutes slower than the "Nose" speed record, so not bad, I guess?

Tried this at the end of the day. Couldn't do the finishing moves out of the overhang to the anchor. ;-) Nice start with dynamic moves into jugs, then a good rest with a kneebar; the crux section starts just after the third bolt up to the anchor.

Sehr abwechslungsreiche und eigenwillige Tour, inzwischen perfekt saniert! Ungefähr 10 Versuche, davon 5 mal am letzten Zug gefallen, inclusive Sehnenzerrung am Mittelfinger durch den Bündelschlitz...

After having seen someone climbing the last section last time, I could climb it today. I also checked out the direct variant, but figured it's harder.

Close one! Didn't have much strength left in the end. Somehow that section between the second and third bolt (clipping inclusively) hits me hard.

2nd go, aber Einstiegscrux kannte ich schon von der LInksvariante. Oben raus unübersichtlich, aber mit Schleifen nicht mehr schwerer als 7. Direkt deutlich schöner als die Linksvariante. Sehr gnädig für den Grad!

Great line that offers remarkably varied climbing. Slab with crimps and pockets to a roundish crack/dihedral and powerful moves in the overhang with a sharp slit that is best used as a mono … which is where I fell.

Couldn't have gone better. I climbed very accurately without any wrong movements. Perfect ascent.

#2go

#2go

4th go, 2nd day. Totally awesome climbing! No really hard moves, but neverending pumpy till the anchor

8+/9-

Couldn't feel my fingers in what obviously was the crux down low and had to let go. Found a cool beta quickly and finished to the chains.