Showing all 12 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | |||||||
9 | ★★★ Doldy Bastler - with Andreas | 36m | |||||
Fantastic endurance piece. I first had the impression that the crux would be at the fourth bolt, but actually a little dyno gets you through that passage. Brilliant, flowy climbing up to the bulge with the big ring. Had to call it a day there after a dozen tries. Hints welcome! So far, I grab the undercling with the left, cross over into the narrow pocket with the right hand, grab the horn out left and bump to a sidepull with the right. I can freely position my feet in that position, but I have yet to figure out how to continue.
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7+ | ★★ Zweite Wahl - with Andreas | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
#warmup, started via Zeitreise. The Grünbauer part felt easier than the last few times, probably because it wasn't freezing cold.
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7- | ★ Direkter Grünbauer Gedenkweg - with Andreas | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Direct line from the starting dihedral of Grünbauer to the finishing crack after the original traverse, via a thin crack line. There's a Bühler bolt in the cave above the first bolt of Grünbauer, from there it's just rusty pitons. Unfortunately, the most important peg has been completely obliterated by rust, meaning that it's gone. Took me some 10 minutes to prepare a nest of gear in that place, which is super important but nontrivial to say the least. The next peg also doesn't look too good, which makes it all the more vital to place good gear. The ringed piton afterwards is a little better, and the terrain also eases off there a little. Good cam position (+ piton) in the slightly overhanging layback section, then easy via another piton to the top.
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Sat 29th Jan 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Grünbauer Gedenkweg - with Raimund | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Our actual objective was dripping wet, so we "resorted" to this classic. The passage at the start felt even more sketchy than last time. The crux sequences went well, though, but I still feel it's terribly stiff for the grade. #repeat
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Fri 11th Dec 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Big Wall - with Alex | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Couldn't feel my fingers in what obviously was the crux down low and had to let go. Found a cool beta quickly and finished to the chains.
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9- | ★★★ Big Wall - with Alex | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Marvellous, long climb, beautiful moves and better rock quality than it seems, splendid pockets especially in the top section. Distinct crux after a few meters with either a difficult traverse to a sidepull flake, or directly to the bolt via small crimps and mono pockets. Another tricky passage around two thirds of the way up with two smaller holds. The rest of the route is just homogeneous pulling on positive holds, a real treat! First 9- climbed in puffy jacket.
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7 7+ | ★★ Zweite Wahl - with Alex | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Logical finish to the classic "Grünbauer Gedenkweg". The top section didn't feel much harder than the cruxy parts of Grünbauer, so I'd say it's around 7-/7. Great exposure. Pretty cold today, good to have the cave in the middle to warm up your hands …
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Sat 31st Oct 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Grünbauer Gedenkweg - with Bovist | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great classic. Brought up Bovist in the bathtub cave in the middle as described in the old guides. I also traversed out to the right after the book to the last bolt, but there's probably no anchor after the vegetated crack above it, so I decided to go back and use the finish of "Zeitreise".
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8 | ★★★ Zeitreise - with Bovist | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great "endurance" route with a distinct crux over the bulge in the middle. I overlooked one of the "Löw loops" right after the first bolt and clipped a rusty peg instead … felt weird, especially given that the flake in the beginning is the most brittle hold in the route. Other than that great moves, quite exposed with a nice juggy finish.
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Fri 19th Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Grünbauer Gedenkweg | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great classic climb!
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9- | ★★★ Big Wall | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
4th go, 2nd day. Totally awesome climbing! No really hard moves, but neverending pumpy till the anchor
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Sat 15th Sep 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★★ Zeitreise | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
#2go This is the line !! 40m Pottensteiner endurance hammer
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Showing all 12 ascents.