Ascents in Toni Rockstroh Gedenkwand having Beta

Shorter than the other routes, mostly good jugs, no idea why this is 8- in some places...

Great fun going through and out of the 3-dimensional dihedral. Gets surprisingly hard at the end, with a lot of rope drag and a ledge you don't want to fall onto.

Long and varied up the left flank. Bit sketchy to the second bolt, well protected otherwise.

Great climbing along the left edge of the south face. #warmup

Used the original start via the ramp. From there, it's possible to climb it in one pitch with a 60 m rope. Still fantastic, even though the upper part was partially wet.

Oddly short, but in great rock with massive jugs most of the time. Felt rather soft compared to the other routes.

Second 8+ onsight attempt in a week that got shut down after a supposed crux by yet another difficult passage over some roof with wet holds above. Gave my all to reach that last bolt, too, like last time. Hard to get out from the little cave and reach the big flake.

über den Direkteinstieg

2nd go

Wall-climbing in the lower part. I almost failed getting into the dihedral, the left way around is hard, so I backed up and tried again to the right. The steep dihedral is really cool, 3d climbing with good (but painful) jams. Almost messed up below the anchor again and clipped it by the skin of my teeth.

Brilliant two-pitch adventure. Phenomenal rock in most places, especially the second pitch is fantastic. Feels like it's hardly ever climbed, not polished at all. A real gem.

Wandbuch von 1930