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Ascents in Riesenburg having Beta

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Showing all 6 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 27th Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Riesenburg
6- Ostwandriss - with Markus Benning Mixed trad 23m, 3 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Great crack dihedral. The top part doesn't have any bolts but can be protected with slings and cams. Cleaned out the leaves and dirt a bit today so it's in pretty good shape now! Recommended.

 
5 Ostwand direkt - with Markus Benning Sport 23m Good
Christoph Rauch
Having climbed "Ostwandriss", my hunch that the original variant of this route might be the best in terms of rock and climbing turns out to be correct. I climbed to the anchhor of "Nordostkante direkt" this time, which is a little bit sketchy and is no longer 5. So it's recommended to climb to the anchor of "Platte" or do the original (which requires a second, though). The big flake in the middle looks inviting to place a sling around, but I would advise against it, not sure if it would withstand a fall. There are enough options around, though.

 
7 Nordostkante direkt - with Markus Benning Sport 26m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Great line, interesting from bottom to top, with a spicy but safe runout in crux section, which is a black, near-vertical slab with small holds (no chalk whatsoever).

 
7 Primatenweg - with Markus Benning Sport 23m Good
Christoph Rauch
Didn't climb the easy second pitch due to lack of time. Looks like a fun little traverse on jugs, though. The hardest part is getting over the roof above the first bolt. There are jugs, but it's quite athletic nonetheless and you have to keep an eye out for the choss around. Nice little crack section at the bolt in the upper part. Take some gear for the middle.

 
Thu 25th Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Riesenburg
6+ Platte - with Helmut Sport 23m Good
Christoph Rauch
Actually a good route, but feels more like free solo half of the time. The second bolt sits in hollow rock (probably deep enough, but who knows), after that it's certainly more than 5 meters of runout to a tiny rock tunnel, backed up by a similarly bad rock tunnel a bit higher. A few meters further, there's finally a bolt, and the top part is really nice, with big pockets. However, I grabbed one of them and sand spilled out over my face; after that, ants came out of the pocket. Not exactly optimal, but at least with a solid bolt below me. The anchor bolt sticks out a few centimeters and moves a bit, to round it off.

 
5 Ostwand direkt - with Helmut Sport 23m Good
Christoph Rauch
Nice dihedral climbing. Slightly less airy than "Platte", easier, and the rock tunnels in the upper wall are actually thick enough to withstand a fall. Didn't find the anchor on the right, so I had to lower off the bad bolt again ... feeling lucky. #lastrouteoftheday

 

Showing all 6 ascents.

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