Showing all 10 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Schlehenmühler Wand Schlehenmühler Hauptwand | |||||||
6+ |
★★ Direkter Fürther Riss
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Best cleaned by seconding. So I did.
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Schlehenmühler Wand Weißer Turm | |||||||
7 |
★★ Jimi Hendrix
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super compact slab. An old toprope boulder by Flipper Fietz. Super scary on lead. There's a relatively new bolt at the start, but the one (and only) bolt in the upper part is quite high. You can (and should) thread a rock tunnel on the ledge, though. However, the runout above the bolt is still huge. And despite it getting easier step by step, the rock quality diminishes at the same pace. There is, however, the possibility of putting in a tiny but decent nut after the crux. I didn't have that size on me, sadly. Still, falling at the top is not an option.
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Schlehenmühler Wand Schlehenmühler Hauptwand | |||||||
6+ |
★★ Maria Schrott Gedenkweg
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
High first bolt and brittle start, but the undercling dihedral makes up for that. Nice moves out of the dihedral. Same finish as for "Lasalle Gedenkweg".
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6 |
★★ Lasalle Gedenkweg
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great rock texture in the dihedral, much more solid than it looks. A tricky traverse under the roof, then easy to the ledge with the fourth bolt. If you go on to the top section (better don't if nobody wants to second it), better put a long sling in that one. The last few meters are in brilliant, juggy, compact, dark black rock.
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8 |
★★ Nürnberger Riss
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A textbook slab boulder up to the third bolt. Funky and brave moves to the second bolt. Misread the very last hard slab move and pulled to a nonexistent hold instead of the crimp just below it. Bummer! The actual crack starts at the third bolt, and it's rough as hell. Like, gritstone rough. Brilliant. Definitely going to come back again.
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7 |
Sturm und Donner
![]() | 20m | |||||
The second bolt is in a very uncomfortable position. I also highly doubt that this route is 7 in the current state. Something (or rather: a lot) must have broken off, and it looks like it, too. Gave up at the second bolt.
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6+ |
★★ Direkter Fürther Riss
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fantastic top section through the overhanging crack. Climbing to the first bolt is a bit daring, but once you got the jugs it's okay. Apparently the left finish is also really good, need to come back again and try it.
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6+ |
★★ Maria Schrott Gedenkweg
![]() | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had to work much harder than 6+ here. But it's really nice and well protected.
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6 |
★★ Lasalle Gedenkweg (Lasall Gedenkweg)
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Went only until the fourth bolt, as recommended in the guidebook. Makes it easier to clean, too.
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Thu 13th Oct 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Schlehenmühler Wand Nebenfels | |||||||
5+ |
★ R1 (Alter Weg)
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Crack/dihedral with splintery start, but the rock quality increases steadily. Interesting moves, not easy for 5+, but merely technical, not athletic. Easy after the third bolt, but still nice climbing.
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Showing all 10 ascents.