Almost free ascent of the oldest route here. First pitch up to the last Bühler bolt is relatively straightforward and easier than I thought it would be, around 6+. The traverse along the narrow, chossy ledge to the right, then up and back left again on the next ledge, was the most challenging part, protected only by a peg. Belay is only one Bühler bolt without any other solid placement options. Second pitch is where the actual adventure starts. One meter to the left, then up an easy groove with highly dubious, hollow structures. Solid cam placement after a few meters, though. Difficult to get up onto the next ledge because all the holds are loose (two good pegs on the left). From here it's a long traverse to the right. I chose to go up a bit first and pass behind the tree for additional free protection (and more solid rock), but it's probably also possible to stay below it. Someone placed an expansion bolt where the exposed part of the traverse starts, placed a good cam there nevertheless to be sure. You really get to feel the exposure once you reach the corner, which is the part of the wall sticking out the most. Shortly after that, you're presented with a rusty peg and the ledge gets narrow to the point of disappearing. This is the only section that I didn't climb freely; pulled the sling and stretched over to the good hand crack at the belay (again, a single Bühler bolt, but with a fantastic cam backup), not only because the sun had already set a good while ago, and because the wall seemed to break away at this point more and more. What follows is certainly the money pitch, a glorious, waved hand crack in solid rock. Unfortunately, it's relatively short and the last few meters are total choss again (grab the grass, trust me!). All in all a great and certainly memorable route. Experience in chossy terrain absolutely essential.
- with
Harald, Markus Benning
