Ascents in Weinzierl Gedenkwand

#warmup or rather cold start. The moves are good, but the line is rather weak; much easier if you climb on the left. I stayed in the wall, even climbed a little on the right, and it felt quite hard. Didn't know where to go from the ledge and it seemed contrived to go left, so I went straight up, which apparently was wrong (but actually nice to climb).

Short wall climb with slightly tricky, small placements. Good moves, a little dirty because it's not done often.

Would deserve two stars, the climbing is really good, but the rock quality is a little dubious, which makes it a bit uncomfortable. The flake with an old peg is not to be trusted, so I didn't even clip the peg, making the runout in the (not so easy!) chimney the crux. No anchor, but you can walk down easily.

The only climbed route in the downhill face of the wall. Traverses along the obvious break over the cave. Not actually bad, but no highlight either. The second piece of protection is a slightly wonky, but relatively new peg.

Short slab with good holds. No idea why this is graded 6+ in some guide books. Good tree to set up an anchor at the top, the third bolt is a hardware store screw that moreover sticks out too far, I wouldn't recommend using it as an anchor.

Actually a nice little crack, but way too short and also there's the thing with the right part of the crack being a massive slab of rock that's apparently drifting away from the rest of the wall.

Nice crack line, good rock especially in the upper part.

Trad #warmup.

Dusty and hard to improve the protection, which consists of a bunch of rusty, bent pegs. Trying to free the line (which is indicated wrongly in the guidebooks) is not recommended. Traverses to the right at the first peg (using rope tension) to another peg, then up over the overhang (yet another peg, but you can clip the glue-in of one of the projects here, yay!) to the former belay ring, which I skipped and set up belay at the end of the traverse (another project glue-in). The book case was empty … meh. Top section is pretty tough, I guess the good holds are long gone, together with quite a few pegs. Luckily, this part of the route has been bolted as part of the project, and the bolt distance is close enough, so aiding is possible. Should have abseiled at the ring bolt. There's another peg above, but the topout is a tough fight against choss, grass and dirt.