Ascents in Totenstein having Beta

Nice route that loosely follows an old, forgotten aid route ("Bergseite", first described in Bühler guide from 1973) but then merges into "Südriss" towards the top instead of going directly left into the chossy overhang. Good rock and nice moves.

Gnarly boulder that requires a lot of finger strength (or tricks that I couldn't pull off). Getting to the first bolt is exciting, but there are jugs. Pulling up into the slab is probably easiest on the right, via some brittle but big holds, and a massive hook. Clipping the second bolt might be the hardest part, it's easier if the draw is already in. From there, I slapped up left to a shallow pocket while crimping hard with the right hand on a shallow slanted edge (high left foot, too). The top is like "Südostkante", which still offers possibilities to drop off despite the much lower grade.

Athletic, strenuous overhang. The holds are a little brittle, clipping is also not too easy. The reward is the upper wall, which I already knew.

Exposed start, then some cool layback moves to the mossy top.

Tricky traverse followed by marvellous wall climbing in compact rock. Sustained until the anchor.

Good crack line, but not many opportunities of using crack technique. Mostly crimps, sidepulls and round holds.

#repeat #lastrouteoftheday

I wasn't even aware that I already did this in 2018. This time, I climbed it all on my own, placing nuts and friends like a big boy. So much fun, and the top is surprisingly comfortable to sit on and belay. Upgrading this to Classic

The start was soaking wet, so I did it with the first bolt pre-clipped. The route itself is a bit odd but I actually liked it. I forwent the grassy runout and finished at the last bolt.

The start was dripping wet, so we pre-clipped the first bolt. Interesting, but easy slab traverse into the east face, then steeper along the arête to the top. Quite nice, actually.

Still a little damp, so I had to climb really carefully. First bolt is hard to reach. Didn't feel too easy, didn't find any good jams in the crack. After the second bolt, the vegetation takes the upper hand, unfortunately, so I cannot really recommend this one.

Tried the original finish this time. The direct finish is much better, though.

#lastrouteoftheday just before dark and most likely the last people on the summit this year.

The original start is at the north-west corner and traverses around to the ledge in the south face. Makes more sense to climb the start of Südriss nowadays. Pretty cool traverse from the ledge to the crack, then two or three nifty moves to the ledge and an airy finish along the arête.

Not sure if this attempt is even worth logging, but I chickened out right at the beginning, because the first foot hold was so polished...

Amazing classic. Good crack climbing with bomber jams, and a fantastic finish traversing the roof on jugs.

Great climbing; don't let yourself be drawn to the left into the easy crack for a rest. The crack start is great, and so is the final section where you are suddenly presented with two brilliant pockets after 15 meters of small crimps.