Ascents in Blechfass having Beta

Leider noch ein zweites mal am Cliphenkel reingesetzt, nachdem dieser von einem Kletterer (G. H.) der Nebenroute blockiert wurde. 😉😘

I said I'd return for this one and here I am, five years later, it went third go The entry boulder felt hard when first trying but then the moves got smoother, ironically the easier flake part felt harder (maybe a little polished?) than 5 years ago, but then the tricky technical part went easy as soon as I got my beta figured out. Without the good rest on underclings just before the steep finale I would have been lost, but this way pump control was possible ^^ Super happy this honest 8 went down today - my first in frankenjura.

Nice route despite the looks. Relatively obvious line along chunky jugs to a good rest below the final bulge, which is easier than it looks (but still a little powerful, of course). Crux might actually be the start, the rest is endurance.

Oh bummer. Sat in the rope below the crux, about 3 meters off the ground, with no hard moves below me, then started from there, managed to get through the crux. Never having completed the upper part in one go, I didn't think I'd make it, so I continued on. Finished the traverse barely holding on and lunged for the sidepull. No idea how I stuck that move, but I kept pushing (or rather pulling) me to the top. Probably can't be arsed to do this again since the crux is such a hit and miss. Close enough to a clean send for me.

Decent #warmup with a few hollow flakes and quite a lot of bolts.

Richtig gut bei richtig guten Bedingungen.

crux ab großem Loch

Nach einem guten Rasten schöne Bouldersequenz

First half is ok. Than hard sequence with a hard clip

Pretty stiff boulder crux. Would grade it 7b

Great Route, highly recommend! Varied climbing, bit of endurance and bouldery. Hard 7a or soft 7a+, but top is tougher for shorties

2nd go. Crux start, than good wall climbing and and good final.

Climbed the start in a weird way...

Good warmup

2nd go

Mit Stirnlampe

Much better than it looks. Really good wall climbing with great move sequences and sensibly spaced bolts.

Nice #warmup, juggy in the beginning, smaller pockets towards the anchor.

Not exactly my warm-up, hence dogging it XD harder in the lower part

My project for that day, entry boulder doable, lower middle section very doable, upper middle section very technical and hard, finale with a roof. Will return to that one!

Too damp today, slipped from every foothold and couldn't pull on holds too hard.

Fragile lower part, as for most of the routes here. Unclear if the big undercling flake at the first bolt will stay there forever. Basically only a few hard moves in the upper part, where the rock quality is best. Picked the wrong sequence of holds and got stuck. Clipping the last bolt is hard.

Nice sequence starting from the big hole. I'm relatively sure my solution isn't much harder than 8. Didn't use many of the tickmarked holds. Clipped the last bolt at my knees. Unfortunately, the rain became stronger after my send, so the holds in the upper part got too wet and mantra couldn't send it.

Felt reachy, but good. Nice moves for a warmup.

Second bolt is hard to clip, but good pocket climbing afterwards.

#2go #soft

2nd go

2nd go