Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Würgau Würgauer Wändchen | ||||||||
6 | Plattnase - with Bovist | 8m | Average | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | ||||
6 | Plattnase - with Christoph Rauch | 8m | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
7- | ★ Racker - with Bovist | 8m | ★ Good | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | ||||
7- | ★ Racker - with Christoph Rauch | 8m | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
6 | ★ Trick 17 - with Bovist | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | ||||
6 | ★ Trick 17 — 2 attempts - with Christoph Rauch | 8m, 2 | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
5 | Leichte Fünf Direkteinstieg - with Bovist | 9m | Average | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | ||||
5 | Leichte Fünf Direkteinstieg - with Christoph Rauch | 9m | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
Würgau Wacholderspitze | ||||||||
6- 6 | ★ Talseite - with Bovist | 15m | ★ Good | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | ||||
Great climb along cracks and flakes, the best line here for sure.
|
||||||||
6 | ★ Talseite - with Christoph Rauch | 15m | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
Würgau Kariöser Zahn | ||||||||
4+ | Südwestkante | 10m, 3 | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||||
4 | Talseite | 10m, 3 | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||||
Würgau Frankenwand | ||||||||
7 | Pfad der Tugend | 15m, 4 | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | |||||
Technical Crux around the third bolt. Felt quite hard.
|
||||||||
4 | ★ Frankenkamin | 15m | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | |||||
3 4 | ★ Frankenkamin - with Merlin | 15m | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | |||||
Nice little chimney, but too short. And it's certainly not 4 UIAA, rather 3 or even easier.
|
||||||||
4 ~2+ | ★ Frankenkamin - with Christoph Rauch | 15m | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | ||||
6- | ★ Sägeblatt | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | ||||
6+ | Splitterriss | 15m, 4 | Don't Bother | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | ||||
6 | Frankenriss | 15m, 2 | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | |||||
7- | Rechte Frankenwand | 15m, 3 | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | |||||
6+ | ★ Linke Frankenwand | 15m, 3 | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | |||||
6+ | ★ Linke Frankenwand | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | Fri 10th May 2024 | ||||
5 | Verschneidung | 15m, 2 | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Hächel und Motz | 15m, 3 | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||||
Cool route with big moves
|
||||||||
6+ | ★★ Hächel und Motz | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th May 2024 | ||||
Netter Mittelteil, der wenn man es sich traut, viel Spaß macht
|
||||||||
5+ | Rumpler | 15m, 4 | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||||
6 | Startproblem | 10m, 3 | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||||
6 | Startproblem | 10m, 3 | Don't Bother | Fri 10th May 2024 | ||||
Leider im letzten Drittel sehr bröckelig. Es haben sich faustgroße Stücke gelöst
|
||||||||
6- | Zickzack | 10m, 3 | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||||
Hard or missed the Jug
|
||||||||
Würgau Fiechtlwand | ||||||||
5+ | Pankraz Knörrlein Gedächtnisweg | 23m | Tue 17th May 2022 | |||||
5+ | Pankraz Knörrlein Gedächtnisweg | 23m | Crap | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
6 | ★★ Pachtner Gedenkweg | 25m | Sat 13th Mar 1993 | |||||
6 | ★★ Pachtner Gedenkweg - with Tobias | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Sep 2020 | ||||
Great route with an exciting finale. Mostly good rock, but careful on your way to the third bolt. In the recent past, big blocks have been removed, but there are still a few massive ones that aren't exactly trustworthy. Good placements for small nuts on the ledge after the first bolt. The upper part is splendid wall climbing with a traverse through an overhang at the end, felt marvellous in the evening sun. #lastrouteoftheday
|
||||||||
6 | ★★ Pachtner Gedenkweg | 25m | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | |||||
6 | Pachtner Gedenkweg, linker Ausstieg | 23m | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
6 | Pachtner Gedenkweg, linker Ausstieg | 23m | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | |||||
8 | ★ Wintersonne | 16m | ★ Good | Sat 29th May 2021 | ||||
6 | ★★ Dülferkante (Dulferkante) | 25m, 7 | Sat 13th Mar 1993 | |||||
6 | ★★ Dülferkante - with Ellen | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | ||||
Great wall climbing with crack elements in the middle. Quite polished, but not really bothersome (at least in these temperatures). Good moves, but hard for the grade.
|
||||||||
6+ 6 | ★★ Dülferkante | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Nov 2019 | ||||
6 | ★★ Dülferkante - with Ellen | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Sep 2020 | ||||
I struggled quite a bit near the second bolt, but got up eventually. Then I stupidly lost my balance in an almost-no-hand rest and grabbed the quickdraw. Apart from that, it would have been a flash.
|
||||||||
6 | ★★ Dülferkante | 25m, 7 | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
6 Hard | ★★ Dülferkante | 25m, 7 | Fri 9th Sep 2022 | |||||
6 | ★★ Dülferkante | 25m, 7 | Sat 4th May 2024 | |||||
9+ 9+/10- | Fantasia | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | ||||||
7+ | ★ Salzburger Weg Direkt | 25m, 6 | Average | Sat 25th Jul 2020 | ||||
7+ | ★ Salzburger Weg Direkt | 25m, 6 | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
7+ | ★ Salzburger Weg Direkt — 2 attempts | 25m, 6 | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | |||||
35 Spirit Points
|
||||||||
7+ | ★ Salzburger Weg Direkt | 25m, 6 | Average | Sat 4th May 2024 | ||||
7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg - with Teresa | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | ||||
7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg (Salzburger Weg Original) - with Stef fel | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | Sun 27th Aug 2017 | ||||
nice but polished
|
||||||||
7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg - with Daniel | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Nov 2017 | ||||
Still felt hard, had to struggle quite a bit! Nice, reachy moves in the beginning, then this strange section with the two-finger slit and nothing else, and then the layback crack (which was slightly wet today …) which threw me off two years ago. Not today! But there's still potential to fall off after that. Probably one of the hardest routes in that grade that I know.
|
||||||||
7 7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg (Salzburger Weg Original) | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Jun 2018 | ||||
2nd go
|
||||||||
7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg | 25m, 5 | Average | Sat 25th Jul 2020 | ||||
7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg - with Ellen | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Sep 2020 | ||||
Getting to the first bolt seemed sketchy so I had it clipped. It wasn't that bad after all, but I generally feel less confident climbing here, so this helped. The rest worked out really great, thanks to having heard all the beta. It doesn't look like it at first, but it's really well protected.
|
||||||||
7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg | 25m, 5 | Sat 20th Jun 2020 | |||||
7+ 7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg | 25m, 5 | Don't Bother | Sat 29th May 2021 | ||||
7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg | 25m, 5 | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
7- | ★★ Salzburger Weg | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th May 2017 | ||||
7- ~7 | ★★ Salzburger Weg | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | ||||
7- ~7- | Vogelvariante | 22m | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | |||||
6- | Neuer Weg | 20m | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Direkter Neuer Weg | 20m | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Direkter Neuer Weg | 20m | Sun 13th May 2001 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Direkter Neuer Weg | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th May 2021 | ||||
Apparently a loose block came down and there is a new bolt at its place after the fourth. Now an additional bouldery crux at the (new) fifth bolt and not just the hard part at the beginning. Grade probably the same, maybe a little harder. True Würgau 7+
|
||||||||
7+ | ★★ Direkter Neuer Weg | 20m | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Direkter Neuer Weg | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Sep 2022 | ||||
7+ | ★★ Direkter Neuer Weg - with Merlin | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | ||||
Might be among the hardest routes of that grade around, even for Würgau. The start is gnarly, especially clipping the second bolt can be a nightmare (with ground fall potential). Seems like a hold broke in the upper part, creating another difficult section where I had to do a sort of leap of faith (it was already dark, too). To top it off, I got a nut stuck and had to fiddle around a good while. #lastrouteoftheday
|
||||||||
7+ | ★★ Direkter Neuer Weg | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||
4+ 5+ | ★★ Südwestriss (Sudwestriss) | 20m | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | |||||
4+ 5+ | ★★ Südwestriss - with Ellen | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Sep 2020 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Südwestriss | 20m | Sun 8th May 2022 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Südwestriss - with Merlin | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | ||||
Straight up via the crack system. Interesting start, powerful in the upper part. Wrongly graded 4+ in some guidebooks.
|
||||||||
5+ | ★★ Südwestriss - with Christoph Rauch | 20m | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Südwestriss | 20m | ★ Good | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||
6- | ★★ Fiechtl Gedenkweg (Fiechtl Ged. Weg) | 20m | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | |||||
6- | ★★ Fiechtl Gedenkweg (Fiechtl Ged. Weg) | 20m | Sun 13th May 2001 | |||||
6- | ★★ Fiechtl Gedenkweg - with Bovist | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||
Cool line with an interesting traverse. I set off into the latter a bit too high, which made it more difficult, but still manageable. From there it's technical wall climbing on crimps to the anchor.
|
||||||||
6- | ★★ Fiechtl Gedenkweg - with Christoph Rauch | 20m | ★ Good | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||
Doing the traverse much lower than Christoph Rauch was easier. The vertical part after that was tricky with small unfavourably formed holds and mediocre footholds.
|
||||||||
6- | ★★ Fiechtl Gedenkweg | 20m | Fri 9th Sep 2022 | |||||
6- | ★★ Fiechtl Gedenkweg | 20m | Sat 4th May 2024 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Würgauer Winkel (Wurgauer Winkler) | 15m | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Würgauer Winkel - with Ellen | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Sep 2020 | ||||
5 | ★★ Würgauer Winkel - with Tobias | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Sep 2020 | ||||
Sweet, easy dihedral; I climbed part of it like a chimney, even. Didn't feel like 5+ (and apparently, 5+ is only for the original variant, in which you traverse left at the second bolt and up along the arête of "Pfeilerweg").
|
||||||||
5+ | ★★ Würgauer Winkel | 15m | Thu 20th May 2021 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Würgauer Winkel | 15m | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Würgauer Winkel | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||
7- | ★ Pfeilerweg | 12m, 3 | Thu 20th May 2021 | |||||
Loose rock between second and third bolt. Maybe it'll hold if you're gentle, didn't feel like testing it out today. Maybe next time.
|
||||||||
7- | ★ Pfeilerweg | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | Sun 8th May 2022 | ||||
Loose rock still there. Be cautious.
|
||||||||
7- | ★ Pfeilerweg | 12m, 3 | Mon 20th Jun 2022 | |||||
5 | Erster Riss | 8m, 1 | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | |||||
5 | Erster Riss | 8m, 1 | Thu 20th May 2021 | |||||
4 | Zweiter Riss | 8m, 2 | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | |||||
4 | Zweiter Riss | 8m, 2 | Thu 20th May 2021 | |||||
4 | Zweiter Riss | 8m, 2 | Mon 20th Jun 2022 | |||||
4+ | Dritter Riss | 8m, 1 | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | |||||
4+ | Dritter Riss | 8m, 1 | Thu 20th May 2021 | |||||
4+ | Dritter Riss | 8m, 1 | Don't Bother | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||
4 | Vierter Riss | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | ||||||
Würgau Edelweißwand | ||||||||
5+ | ★★ Edelweißweg - with Christoph Straubmeier | 28m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Jun 2024 |