Ascents in Oberharz by Tobias Auth

Great variety of moves. Sloper, edges, pinch, kneebar, mantle. Awesome. 2nd go.

Warm-up. More exciting than last time because it already got dark.

Could imagine doing this as my first Boulder of the grade. Starting from the crimp, I almost got it. Maybe one inch short on the first move.

Unexpected progress during 2 hour sundown session. Got all moves to the top hold and fell with the right hand on the top of the block because of the blind top out/ couldn't see foothold. Beta was locking both arms completely on the first move and reaching the crimp statically with a heel hook. Sharp crystal for the middle finger more or less. Matching the crimp, flag left leg with pressure on the tip. Controlled dynamic move to the sloper rail.

Pulled hamstring on my first go of the day. Should've sent yesterday.

Tough problem with a undercut/sidepull disk.

Cool gaston finger lock!

Weird that it starts on the block.

Very short and juggy but an interesting mantle.

Started in the overhang but with feet on another small block. Fun!

Very short but two nice moves on cool holds. Felt more like 5B/C to me.

Tried to do the first move with Micha's beta but couldn't generate enough pull with the toe hook. Seemed crazy hard!

Great! According to my topo I did "Ostwand-Verschneidung Direkt 4+". The second half is really adventurous, immersive and not too easy! First try, it felt like oldschool, french 5c. The placements there are bomber though! Big wires and a red tourque-nut in my case. Dragon #3 and/ or 4 useful for the initial slab.

Linked both direct variants, using all 5 bolts. Too exciting as a warm up but great! Nice and technical with an awkward crux above the 2nd bolt and a slab crux higher up. The top part is easy but run-out. Dragon #3 and red torque nut to mitigate. My first route in this area.

Rad moves at the top where the wall feels 2° overhanging. Definitely the hardest climbing I did in Okertal so far. After some playing around while lowering from the neighboring route, I figured I wanted to do it. Put some nuts in at the top beforehand. One of them I could not get out anymore. 1st bolt looks good. 2nd one on the "head wall" not so much. (used additional gear).

Good route! I see the point in british grades now. Not too hard but heady!! Good placements for big wires half way to the first bolt but then not much above. Used a 2nd bolt though.

When I did this, I wasn't aware that I was doing it all trad because the dragon #3 that was still in, from doing the route next to this, seemed like such a good placement. That was also where the climbing was the hardest.

Technical but easy below the first bolt. The rooflet itself is a little hard to read but fun.

Wow, so much friction! Not sure if I bypassed the 2nd crux by climbing the big flake 5 meters right of the last bolt (Last big ledge). Would've been the most awkward, reachy sloper move ever if I didn't. Nevertheless: The steep part is amazing! Didn't place any gear (no obvious placements in the spots where you'd want them, I think). Run-out that way in the first half but it was easy enough to still feel comfortable.

Nice line! Traverse finish and not all the way up.

#barefoot while others were projecting "Bahnverbindung".

Getting into that sidepull seemed impossible. Different beta?!

Hard! Juggy on sharp slots and a very specific "smear, stand up and reach" problem at the very top. I saw 7a/b boulderers not sending.

Cool problem on the right side of an arête. Feels impossible at first. Granite smearing, balance and slopers.

More pads and spotters needed.

Katrin's erster draußen-boulder. Ziemlich hoch dafür!