Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Barbiser Kanzel | |||||||
2+ | ★★ 68er Riss linker Ausstieg | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Ruinenwand | |||||||
5 | ★★ Stumpfe Kante | 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Trainingseinheit | 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Pilier Vert | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Trizeps | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
5 | ★ Ritterriss | Average | |||||
5+ | ★ Linke Sache | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
6+ | ★ Tingel Tangel Bob | 12m, 3 | Average | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Westpfeiler | |||||||
6 | ★★ Schnitzeljagd | 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5 ~5- | ★★★ Zeit wird knapp | 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
4 | ★★ Spreizverschneidung | ★ Good | |||||
3+ | ★★ Rechte Sache | 12m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4 | ★★ Eremitenriss | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5 | ★ Direkte Sache | 12m, 2 | |||||
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
6+ | Zu und ab - with Julia | 12m, 3 | |||||
6+ | ★ Tingel Tangel Bob | 12m, 3 | |||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
6 | Noir Esprit - with Julia | 12m, 4 | |||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
6+ | Zu und ab | 12m, 3 | |||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
6/6+ | Rouge Esprit | 4 | |||||
6 | Noir Esprit | 12m, 4 | |||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Übungsfelsen | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Fredi-Weg - with Lidia Seib | 3 | |||||
6+ | Direkte Nordostwand - with Lidia Seib | 2 | |||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Körnerwand | |||||||
6+ | ★ Lulatsch - with Lidia Seib | 8 | |||||
6 | ★★★ Variante - with Lidia Seib | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Direkte Körnerwand - with Lidia Seib | 4 | |||||
5- | Körner-Wand - with Lidia Seib | 2 | |||||
5- | ★★★ Westkante - with Lidia Seib | 2 | |||||
6- | ★★ Pfeilervariante - with Lidia Seib | 5 | |||||
6- | Westriß - with Lidia Seib | 1 | |||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Übungsfelsen | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Fredi-Weg | 3 | |||||
5 | Willis Erste | 1 | |||||
5 | Willis Erste Rissvariante | ||||||
4+ | ★ Rückwand | 2 | |||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Körnerwand | |||||||
5- | ★★★ Westkante | 2 | |||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
7- | Kellogs Cornflakes - with Lidia Seib | 2 | |||||
6 | ★★ Zapfenstreich - with Lidia Seib | 3 | |||||
5 | ★★ Türmchen - with Lidia Seib | 15m, 2 | |||||
5+ | Hans Veit Rentsch Gedenkweg - with Lidia Seib | 15m, 2 | |||||
6+ | Pimpofisto - with Lidia Seib | 2 | |||||
6- | Bloody Mary - with Lidia Seib | 2 | |||||
6 | Noir Esprit - with Lidia Seib | 12m, 4 | |||||
6/6+ | Rouge Esprit - with Lidia Seib | 4 | |||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Rechte Wand | |||||||
5+ | Platte — 2 attempts - with Konrad, Katta | 8m, 2 | |||||
3+ | Lost Puppy - with Konrad, Katta | 8m, 2 | |||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Gratsockel | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Dachsweg - with Konrad | 12m, 2 | |||||
5+ | ★ Quellcode - with Konrad | 12m, 3 | |||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Rechte Wand | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Wohlstandsspeck - with Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun short #crack route that can be laybacked or jammed. #barefoot
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8 | Abtaucher — 2 attempts - with Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | |||||
Hm... Ideas, but no working sequence.
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Straßentrum | |||||||
7- | Diebische Amsel — 2 attempts - with Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | |||||
Cool top boulder, #hard as nails for the grade.
Messed up the onsight by going right and getting stuck in mono-land. |
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6+ | ★★ Kante direkt - with Katta, MartinM | 8m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sweet arete. Technical and flowy, should be longer.
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6- | ★★ Froschkönig - with Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice plaisir wall climbing, was a bit skeptical of the rock quality up top, but everything held.
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7- | Kobold - with Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | Don't Bother | ||||
#vegetated up top 😕
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Barbiser Klippen Gratsockel | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Dachsweg - with Katta, MartinM | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Quellcode - with Katta, MartinM | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Mrs. Smith - with Katta, MartinM | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool layback #someonehastogetthedraws #barefoot
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7- | Kellogs Cornflakes - with Katta, MartinM | 2 | Don't Bother | ||||
Felt contrived and not like an independent line, more a variation of it's neighbors
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6 | ★★ Zapfenstreich - with Katta, MartinM | 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool 3d clim, #hard for the grade
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Eckturm | |||||||
9- | Merlin - with Katta, MartinM | 3 | |||||
Cool pocket boulder, but I'm still missing 2moves around the first bolt. I could link from there to the ⚓.
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
5 | ★ Ritterriss - with Katta, MartinM | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5 | ★ Direkte Sache - with Katta, MartinM | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
8- | ★ Peyote - with Konrad | 2 | |||||
4+ | ★★ Mrs. Smith - with Konrad | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
5 | ★ Ritterriss - with Konrad | ||||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
7+ Hard | Mr. Smith — 3 attempts - with Katta | 2 | |||||
Technical start boulder on small holds.
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8- | ★ Peyote - with Katta | 2 | ★ Good | ||||
More a (fun) athletic and technical boulder than a route, as everything beyond the first bolt is more like UIAA5
I was one move a way from getting the slot above the lip and therefore the onsight, but figuring out that move took me a couple more attempts. Beyond figuring out the beta, I also needed to get into the proper "fight mode" headspace for the crux moves. |
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Balduin - with Katta | 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great athletic romp through the roof. Kneebars and 3d climbing.
Main gripe: should be longer |
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5+ | ★ Linke Sache - with Katta | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
6+ | Zu und ab - with Katta | 12m, 3 | Average | ||||
Feels a bit contrived as the dihedral/chimney pulls you to the right constantly.
I mostly kept left, pumpy with good handholds but often insecure feet. |
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Ruinenwand | |||||||
5 | ★★ Stumpfe Kante | 4 | |||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
6+ | Zu und ab | 12m, 3 | |||||
7 | ★★★ Trainingseinheit | 3 | |||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Pilier Vert | |||||||
7+ | Zufall oder Notwendigkeit | 4 | |||||
6+ | Krumme Dinger | 3 | |||||
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Westpfeiler | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Hulk | 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6 | ★★ Schnitzeljagd | 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5 | ★★★ Zeit wird knapp | 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Pilier Vert | |||||||
5+ | ★ Genuss | 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★★ Das Leichtsinnige Känguru | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Das Boxende Känguru | 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★★ Lehrstück | 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Balduin | 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 21st Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Pilier Vert | |||||||
7 | ★★ Es lebe der Leichtsinn | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6- | ★★ Bizepsriss | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6 | ★★ Auslese | 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7-/7 | ★★ Auslese Direkter Einstieg | 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Melaniepfeiler | 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★★ Kampf der Titanen | 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 21st Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Afrika Cuba | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Mrs. Smith | 12m, 2 | |||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Römerstein Übungsfelsen | |||||||
4+ | ★ Rückwand - with Katta | 2 | |||||
BAREFOOT
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
3+ | ★★ Rechte Sache - with Katta | 12m, 1 | |||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Ruinenwand | |||||||
5 | ★★ Stumpfe Kante - with Katta | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Westpfeiler | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Zeit wird knapp - with Katta | 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lennypfeiler - with Katta | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
4 | ★★ Eremitenriss - with Katta | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Westpfeiler | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Zeit wird knapp - with MartinM | 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6 | ★★ Schnitzeljagd - with Adrian | 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Trad with one bolt half way through.
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lennypfeiler - with MartinM | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
4 | ★★ Eremitenriss - with MartinM | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Ruinenwand | |||||||
6 6/6+ | ★★ Annie, get your gun - with MartinM | 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Westpfeiler | |||||||
8- | ★★ Fuß im Fettnapf - with David Schröder | 3 | |||||
The crux above the 3rd bolt went fine when isolated, but I couldn't get it to work from below, despite the excellent kneebar rest. Too tired/unfocused/high gravity day, i guess.
Next time! |
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Südharz | |||||||
Burgruine Scharzfels Moritzbastei | |||||||
8- | ★★ Immer Ärger mit Bernie - with Katta, MartinM, ad, David Schröder | 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux-y variant. A cool Boulder over the lip with a really small box. The solution: Hip flexibilty and a bit of oomph 🤘 and knowing which finger to tape.
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