Ascents in Kienstein

Schönes gekochele

Mein erstes richtig hartes Projekt!

As always in Kochel climbs soo much better than it looks: a real powerendurance diamond! The actual crux was after the big undercling in the end where I lost both feet and missed the jug about 3 times during the send... what a battle:) only possible with the support from Nils who's hanging 3m to the left of me, Malik & my send belayer Kevin:) 2 days, 5 tries

Versuch

Mostly I'm happy about finding this perfect no-expectation send mode again with no skin, fun people around and even one guy next to me also in the send go but still chatting together which blew all the pressure away:) 2nd try from the ground after VQ! Even better, harder & longer;) luckily my body already adapted to the crux moves a bit as there was way less power left at the end of day!

The ultimate powerendurance testpiece, soo good even if it's quite chipped! 3rd try with knowing the start and the end already from other climbs; during the 2nd go, I lost my focus at the very last move at 30m and directly started again from the ground by clipping the chains this time! Seems like the Spanish enduro is paying off here;)

Maybe the best line in Kochel with even better moves! Tried it twice 1,5 years ago by having no chance... great to see the progress I've made much clearer in this one but was a good fight though! Really enjoyed this high dropknees with a final committing crossover move in the crux:)

2nd try after sending the beautiful arête "Raffinös" which shares the same crux!

#2go Little linkup with slightly better end:) still was as small as last time so I had to do the hard version for the boulder again;)

Possible the first ascent of a person smaller than 1,65m and maybe of all women at all! Great moves around this edge after the morpho crux;) the beta I've done felt much harder than it normally would be... happy about that one:))

#2go Kraftausdauerhammer mit einigen bsonders schweren stellen für kleine! Totally surprised and happy about sending it within 2 tries especially for Kochel:))

Yees finally able to do this perfect crossmove which always stopped me the previous years as well as the tricky corner exit! Wrestling up the last meters in the full 20 degrees sunshine let it feel like midsummer! Not like February;)

8a, links eingestiegen

#2go "Im frankenführer hätt de route 10 von 5 bierkrügen"; da hats topo ned zu vui versprochn weil de is echt da wahnsinn:)

First thought that I couldn't climb the upper crux but I then found a way in my second try with a very sketchy toehook on the right: from the undercling, I can't quite reach the pinch which is far up to the left, so I had to take the bad sidepull crimps just below with three fingers, do the sketchy toehook (which slipped in my third try), bring in the right hand to another bad sidepull just above and right of the left hand, and then bump the left hand into the pinch. Next time: try foot swap instead of toehook.

Started mit "so um die" im Riss und geht dann gerade nach oben. Ist wohl noch nicht im Führer.

Alz os was real today with a thousand footswitches and grabbing two monos;) arriving at the crag with no skin was a hard battle against pain on this sharp rock! Falling right before the chains in VQ would be extra motivating to give another try normally but today I simply had to give up...

#2go Geniale tour mit sau coolen zügen an imma guadn griffen bloß die tritte sollt ma sich merkn;)

Für kochel eine top tour!! schön lange kletterei mit crux oben vom no hand weg;)

Zum 3. dritten Versuch gezogen. Oben gut auschecken.

Wow, kam das unerwartet. Klettern kann sooo geil sein. Begehung mit ersten beiden Expressen geklippt.

Bisschen bröckelt der Mörtel manchmal

9-/9

Last route of the day, climbed all the way up to the crux move (with plenty of beta from watching the others) where I fell. Next time: try reaching the sidepull in the crack on your right before putting the left foot further up.

Nette Tour mit harten boulderzügen auf den letzten Metern.

Better for warming up than expected:) tricky hook boulder at the beginning of the slab! Prime condis for people who love icecold rock:))

Ewiges erinnerungsmerkmal an die route wegen der narbe an meiner nase weil i vor 10 monaten richtig blöd beim fallen in da exe hängen blieben bin...heut gings glei im ersten aba sie bleibt au als sau coole technische leistentour in erinnerung!

#2go Richtig geile kletterei im oberen teil von den apokalyptischen aba für unten bin i leida zu klein... Knapp und warm wars

Felt like a beautiful but hard Altmühltal slab;)

#2go First 7b+ so happy, so unexpected!

Viel zu lange rumgemacht an Versuche

2nd try today

Stelle vorm Klippen vom zweiten Haken noch nicht geklettert. Erste Exe sehr hoch, vorher mit Clipstick einhängen. Nach der zweiten Exe, guten schmierigen Griff ganz rechts nehmen. Rechts hoch treten, mittig auf super tritt. Links an Leiste unter Henkel. Rechts hochtreten und mit rechter Hand über kreuzen an Henkel. An Stelle über Exe neben großem Seitgriff, links hoch auf guten tritt stehen (Hände links und rechts an kleiner Leiste) Dann rechts raustreten (hoch) auf großen schwarzen tritt. Rechts rausgreifen an Griff Im "V" förmigen Fels.