Most people climb "Dietrichweg Dungervariante" as it seems, because it's a little easier (supposedly). The common crux seems to be to clip the first ring, though. It was apparently set from a "Baustelle", but it's unclear how this is possible. Climbed freely, you have to do a pull-up on mediocre, roundish holds (big ones, though) and lock off to clip the ring. There might be a good sling a little bit lower on the right but I didn't find it. From the ring it's an easytraverse to big holds on the left, then directly up to the second ring, where I brought up my second. The upper half starts off with a delicate friction traverse on tiny footholds, with barely anything to hold on to. From the first bigger hold in the crack on the left, you can place one or two tiny, but great slings. I didn't have any idea how to proceed from there and my feet started to hurt, so I reached over to the left into the other crack, which brought me into yet another perceived dead end. Put yet another sling in the left crack, then dared an athletic move with a tiny foothold and heelhook to my left hand, which worked out. Unclipped the left sling and placed a better one higher up. The rest of the crack is a great reward: juggy, getting easier meter by meter, with a final big sling placement below the last bulge. What a route. Can't even imagine how they could have climbed this in 1920.
- with
Raimund, Jenni
