Ascents in Brand

Spannender Einstieg. Dann immer kurz nach den Ringen schwer

6 mm sling halfway up to bolt. Crux is getting past finger holes to ledge. Solid 6 mm sling in the left. Exit slightly right.

A little sandy to the overhang, then with good protection in the crack to the ring. Small holds above the ring (the yellow thing that looks like a jug is too sandy …) lead rightwards to the ring at the arête with nice moves. Bold friction slab, with only marginal rock tunnels as additional protection, to the summit.

Nice line straight up in the middle of the wall. Tough (for me) friction slab moves above the ring, not a lot to hold on to. Stood on the first ledge for a while to rest my weary feet. Rock tunnel on the second ledge protects the second difficult move.

Relatively easy to the first ring, then powerful layback (I eventually jammed my feet into the crack, which made it much easier). Easy traverse up to the second ring (best clipped from the left; I threaded a small rock tunnel directly below it). The crux for me was the bold friction slab passage after the ring, which leads to the right and up. Falling there would probably lead to a drop onto the ledge below if you don't jump off in time. Luckily, there are some hidden holds that make it possible. From the third ring on, it's enjoyable and easy to the plateau and in a second pitch to the summit.

oben Falkenkante

Perfect hand crack passage in the middle after a few meters of wider crack with holds on the sides, and again a few meters of wider crack in slabby terrain with fewer holds on the sides afterwards. Not entirely trivial slab in the second pitch to the summit.

(mit enormen Einsatz, winterliche Besteigung) und Jahreserste