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Ascents in Vexierturm

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Showing all 10 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
VIIIc
VIIIc Odyssee (Odyssee (RP)) Mixed trad 14 Sächsische Schweiz Average
Elmo
Mon 14th Jun 2021
VIIIc Odyssee - with Marcel Mixed trad 14 Sächsische Schweiz Good
Peter Colditz
Sat 19th Aug 2023
VIIc
VIIc Weinertwand (oU) Mixed trad 60m, 3 Sächsische Schweiz
Peter Betz
Thu 5th May 2005
VIIc Weinertwand - with J.S. Mixed trad 60m, 3 Sächsische Schweiz
Dolly
Mon 13th Sep 1982
VIIc Weinertwand - with LL Mixed trad 60m, 3 Sächsische Schweiz Classic
vilda_hkvdf
Wed 3rd May 2023
VIIc Weinertwand Mixed trad 60m, 3 Sächsische Schweiz Classic
DDjensl
Thu 1st Jun 2023
VIIb
VIIb Amselseekante Mixed trad 57m, 5 Sächsische Schweiz Good
Elmo
Mon 14th Jun 2021
VIIb Amselseekante Mixed trad 57m, 5 Sächsische Schweiz Classic
Frithjof Winkelmann
Wed 31st Mar 2021
VIIb Amselseekante - with David X Mixed trad 65m, 5 Sächsische Schweiz Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Mon 11th Sep 2023
Perfect route to end the long weekend with, although I must admit the sand in the second pitch got me a little frightened. But let's start at the beginning. It seems many people start from the left instead of climbing the original hand crack, which is a shame. The crack is the obvious line and it's not hard. You can even protect it quite easily. The section from the first to the second ring is intimidating at first because you can't see the ring and it's overhanging, but the holds are good and you can climb in a controlled fashion. Almost didn't see the ring, had already placed a sling directly next to it. Good sling on a ledge after that, then up over an overhang ("Umgehungsstelle" of "Weinertwand") and via an exhilarating slab section to the third ring, where I set up belay. The second pitch starts off with what is maybe the most technical part of the climb. Didn't place anything up to the fourth ring, though, and just concentrated on the climb. After the ring, a little crack section provides some variation (and we even pocketed a sling that someone got stuck in a rock tunnel, kaching!) and before you know it, you're at the fifth ring. The guidebook said to go right here, "avoiding two chossy overhangs". Apparently, though, most people nowadays go left into the finish of "Weinertwand" instead, so the original finish is neglected and indeed the rock quality is questionable at best. I tried to avoid the "white stuff" as best as I could, found some mediocre rock tunnels and just climbed as carefully as possible to not break anything. It's not difficult climbing up there, fortunately. The feeling of success and relief was all the more present when I reached the summit. It's basically written everywhere but to be sure: the second abseil ring is on the opposite wall, just a few meters below the summit. Don't miss it!

 
VIIb Amselseekante
1 Trad lead by janderkran
2 Trad
Mixed trad 57m, 5 Sächsische Schweiz
janderkran
Tue 5th May 2009

Showing all 10 ascents.

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