Ascents in Hoher Torstein having Beta

5 . Beg / 5th repeat

We wanted to start right where we slept and this was the most intriguing line (at least to me) in the vicinity. I don't really know what I was thinking when I donned shorts the day before, but looking at the narrow chimney start, I already knew I was going to have a lot of fun. Tried tying my sweat towel to my left knee using tape and set off. About 1,5 meters up, it was gone already and my knee started to get numb. Luckily I didn't feel any pain because it was so exhausting at the same time. After 5 meters or so (which took me ages) you can finally put your right foot on a good chicken head on the outside, which also offers the first sling placement. But actually, the climbing eases off a lot there, it's pretty relaxing up to the belay in the alcove at around 30 meters. I didn't spot the little belay bolt, so I set up belay at the big rock tunnel (body belay to not weigh and damage it). Second pitch starts off with an awkward overhanging chimney that's hard to get into. First tried with my back on the wrong side and had to slide back down. After a few meters, you reach a little rock head (good sling) and the climb transitions into a crack dihedral. I placed some slings there, but none of them were 100%, I suppose. Around 2 meters above the last sling, the holds get thin and the dihedral flattens. I can hardly imagine how the first ascensionist must have felt soloing this section (well actually, I can a little because I didn't want to fall into my slings, too!) The pockets you gain just in time are probably often dirty because of all of the heather growing on the big ledge above, adding to the spice, so I took my time and brushed out the sand and dirt before carefully pulling on them to shift my ass over onto the slab on the right. Belay on a bunch of trees. The start of pitch three is brittle and sandy, but it gets better quickly. Below the final overhang, I chose to go right a bit and up directly, which is how I interpreted the route description (also, the groove on the left was blocked by a birch tree). Quite nice pitch this way and a belay ring on top. From here it's another 30 meter stroll (various options) to the summit. Quite the journey!

Amazing line. It's already a bit surreal standing at the start on that massive flake just hanging there, with a chasm almost like a Bergschrund between it and the wall. The difficult and scary part is right at the start. The first ring is quite low, and after that you need to just power through the hand crack and not get irritated by that one little section where the jams are a little shaky. Draws up diagonally to the right from the second ring, with juggy climbing and good protection, then up towards a nasty little offwidth that ends up in a finishing chimney.

Kopflampe im Kaminlabyrinth nicht vergessen...

Bis 3.R

too hot, above 4.R was already on sun

Good alternative for reaching the ledge. Be careful under 1.R. 11.Beg.