Ascents in Löchlesfels

Gar nicht so poopelig wie befürchtet, nach einmal ausbouldern geklettert.

really nice and technical route

Bis zum dritten Haken..

erst Platte, dann Überhang und schließlich tausdende Löcher Echt cool, aber locker ne 8+

Erst Platte, dann Überhang und Lochkletterei. Schlinglestour Ausstieg geklettert. Mit geänderter Beta an allen guten Löchern (weit links) mit Seitgriff gings ganz gut und 8 passt. Wenn man aber super direkt klettert bestimmt 8+. Sehr schwer zu entschlüsseln da soviele Strukturen vorhanden.

Konnte meine Ausgangsposition vor der Rechtsquerung nicht frei erreichen, von der aus Rest der Tour an einem Stück machbar war.

Immer wieder der Bauch..

Nochmal die entscheidende Grifffolge testen...

..und Durchstieg!

A really crimpy start. Unfortunately I used the bolts for at the beginning to check the moves. At the 3rd bolt it gets easier and then steep and pumpy. Great route.

With the tips of another party, the start worked out right away. You have to stand up on very small steps and holds then hold a bad pinch with your right hand to stand on the big ledge with your left foot.Then paused for a while first. First attempt to climb further screwed up: missed the hole. But then I managed to get over the 2-3 finger hole for the left hand to the next 2 finger hole for the right hand. My right foot was right next to the first bolt. After that, I continued to the undercling and side holds of the small overhang and I had already mastered the main difficulties. Weak as I am, I then worked my way up the rest of the route with many breaks.

Note to myself: Always clean-up while climbing

Nice try but not strong enough to pull through the belly after the overhang. Unbelievable that I'm still alone at this wall. It's already very humid and it's getting hot later.

#ropedsolo

Another run for stamina. Could just about hold the starting crimps and needed 4 breaks or so. Crazy, I was still alone and on the way back to the car I saw relatively few climbers. Probably they were all still on their way and the locals were on their way to other areas.

#ropedsolo

Satisfying first lead attempt. Made it almost through my endurance crux after the overhang. Shame on me, got the feet wrong. Always the feet damn. Next time.

Another failed attempt. Hektik at the two finger hole at the second bolt, missed it. Worked up the route and did a lot moves differently than before. Not a good sign. But managed to reach my crux and using the feet correctly it wasn't a big deal...

Training

Finally after 8 attempts (including top-rope ascents) I nailed it. Yeeha Almost messed up the middle part but sticked to the wrong hold and pushed through the part where I previously forgot to get my right foot high enough to support the right hand on the sloper. Thanks Sonnendeck, Hiltrun Buck and Wile E Coyote for the belays.

schwerer Move an der 1. Exe, oben Ausdauer und die richtigen Löcher :>

Crux jeweils zwischen den Exen, bei den Exen und immer mal wider darüber

Einfach immer wieder super. Leider ganz schön eingechalkt und abgenudelt mittlerweile.

absolute Megaroute, so geile Bewegungen!

verglichen mit anderen "Donautal 7+" ist diese hier quasi geschenkt.