Routes: Routes as trad in Central Greece

Grade	Route	Gear style
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Rubicon Sector
{UIAA} 8	ΦΩΤΕΙΝΟ ΜΟΝΟΠΑΤΙ/SENDERO LUMINOSO A multi pitch divided in two segments. The 1st 8 pitches are 250m and after a 10' walk the upper part is consisted of 9 pitches of 350m total. Second part is easier and more atmospheric. Set: Vouturopoulos, T. Michailidis & A. Theodoropoulos, 1996	Mixed trad 600m, 17, 50
7a	Luminous Path	Trad 610m, 17
{UIAA} 6+	★★ Notios Anemos 1 5+ 40m 2 6+ 35m 3 6 45m 4 6- 50m 5 4- 45m 6 4 50m The last three pitches are easy but require some route finding since they don't have any permanent bolts besides the permanent anchors.	Trad 270m, 6
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Africana Sector
{UIAA} 7	Dalton Maint: 2023	Mixed trad 22
{UIAA} 6	★★★ Afrikana 1 4+ 30m 2 5+ 40m 3 6 30m 4 6- 25m 5 5+ 20m 6 5 30m 7 4+ 25m Maint: 2023	Mixed trad 200m, 7, 12
{UIAA} 8	★★★ Chistoforos Agnoglou Maint: 2023	Mixed trad 140m, 4, 43
{UIAA} 7-	★★ Ellinomania 1 6 30m 2 6+ 45m 3 6+ 40m 4 7- 35m 5 6+ 20m 6 6- 25m 7 4- 45m A mix route that follows the natural lines of the water grooves and cracks. Necessary equipment: 14 quickdraws, a set of nuts and a couple of medium friends. The first pitch is missing a bolt. FA: D. Aivazidis & D. Mavropoulos, 2005 Maint: 2023	Trad 240m, 7
{UIAA} 6	★★★ Molon Lave 1 5- 2 5- 3 6 Typical Varsova climbing. 3rd pitch follows a crack-dihedral and provides sustained grade VI-, VI climbing. Maint: 2023	Mixed trad 110m, 3, 5
{UIAA} 5+	Bow Maint: 2023	Trad 160m, 6
{UIAA} 7	★★ Fanatic 1 6 40m 2 7 30m 3 6 40m Maint: 2023	Mixed trad 110m, 3, 11
{UIAA} 7-	★★ Mavro provato 1 4 35m 2 7- 40m 3 6 45m 4 6- 20m 5 3 60m https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/MavroProvato FA: G. Voutyropoulos - L. Mandrou., 2002 Maint: 2023	Trad 200m, 5
{UIAA} 6-	★★★ Gonia Maint: 2023	Trad 190m, 6
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Kolofotia sector
{UIAA} 6	★★ Kolofotia 1 5+ 40m 2 6 35m 3 5+ 40m 4 4+ 25m 5 4- 40m https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/Kolofotia Located in between Africana and batman sector. Approach from Africana but stay at the bottom of the wall, find destroyed metal bridge and traverse to start of the route. FA: D. Hasse - S. Eichinger, 1978 Maint: 2022	Trad 180m, 5
{UIAA} 1	to be deleted	Trad 1m
{UIAA} 7+	★★★ Gatoulis 1 5 40m 2 6 15m 3 6+ 35m 4 4 15m 5 7+ 35m As the first pitch one can also do the first pitch of kolofotia Maint: 2022	Mixed trad 140m, 5, 4
{UIAA} 6	Kalos sxinosyntrofos 1 6 55m 2 5- 40m 3 5 55m 4 5- 50m Great first pitch. The route has permanent anchors on all pitches besides the first one but requires some route finding. Maint: 2022	Mixed trad 200m, 4, 1
{UIAA} 6+	★★★ Thalia 1 5 30m 2 6+ 35m 3 6+ 45m 4 6- 30m Great 2nd and 3rd pitches Maint: 2022	Mixed trad 140m, 4, 14
{UIAA} 7-	Kentri 1 6 35m 2 7- 30m 3 7- 45m 4 6- 30m Requires some gear but has many bolts. Maint: 2022	Mixed trad 140m, 4, 16
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Batman Sector
6a+	★★★ Herod A very popular trad-style corner. FA: D. Korres & T. Adamakopoulos, 1979 Maint: 2022	Mixed trad 30m, 4
6c+	Batman 4 bolts at the start, for the last part you need Cams or Nuts. Maint: 2022	Mixed trad 30m, 4
{UIAA} 8	Butterfly Maint: 2022	Trad 3
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Pirgos Sector
5c	★★ Pyrgos 1 5b+ 25m 2 4c 20m 3 4c 10m 4 5c 25m 5 4c 20m	Mixed trad 100m, 5, 11
6c+	★★ Rock 'n' Roll 1 6a+ 30m 2 6c+ 30m 3 6b 40m FA: Dionyssis Stravagenis & Dimitra Hadji, 1990	Mixed trad 100m, 3, 24
6a+	★★ Skala 1 4c 25m 2 5c+ 20m 3 6a+ 30m 4 4a 25m Rappel down the route 'Pyrgos' FA: 1975	Trad 100m, 4
{UIAA} 7-	Remali	Mixed trad 85m, 3, 4
6c	★★★ Heavy Metal 1 6b 30m 2 6c 30m 3 5c 35m FA: Yiannis Agianniotakis & Dimitris Tsitsikas, 1989	Mixed trad 95m, 3, 16
{UIAA} 7+ A0	Geraki	Mixed trad 91m, 3, 17
6b	O Xin Agilin 1 6b 25m 2 6a+ 30m Set: Aris Theodorpoulos & Dimitris Bakalis, 1994	Mixed trad 55m, 2, 11
5c	★★ Calydonis Direct 1 5c 25m 2 5c 30m FA: H, H. Lindner & R. Lindner, 1971	Mixed trad 55m, 2, 13
{UIAA} 6+	Mikrula	Mixed trad 56m, 2, 9
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Phyco Sector
6b	★★ Natassa 1 4c 20m 2 6b 25m 3 6a+ 20m Maint: 2022	Mixed trad 65m, 3, 8
5c	★ Calydonios Kapros 1 4c 30m 2 5c 30m 3 5b+ 25m R1 30m IV+, R2 40m V+, R3 30m V-	Mixed trad 85m, 3, 8
5c	★★ Dromos ton Louloudion Direct 1 4c 30m 2 5c 30m 3 5a 25m	Mixed trad 85m, 3, 10
{UIAA} 6	★ Mnimonio 1 6 60m 2 5+ 60m 3 5+ 50m https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Mnimonio	Mixed trad 170m, 3, 6
{UIAA} 7-	Adolescence Maint: 2023	Mixed trad 130m, 5, 4
{UIAA} 7-	Rilken Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted	Mixed trad 6, 2
{UIAA} 7	Allergy Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted.	Trad 5
{UIAA} 5-	★ Flower's Way	Trad 4
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Public Sector
{UIAA} 5	★★ Public	Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 5	★ Loufa	Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 4+	★ Relax	Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 4+	★★ Anastasia	Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 4	Widow	Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 5-	Alkistis	Trad 40m, 2
{UIAA} 4	Schooling Ridge	Trad 61m, 2
{UIAA} 4	★★★ Classic Ridge	Trad 1200m
Parnassos Mparoutospilia
{UIAA} 8- A1	★★ 60 shades of grey 1 8- 2 A1 The route follows a line just right of the prominent cave, visible from afar. Required gear: double 60m ropes, 14qd, a set of stoppers, medium to large cams. Topo FA: Georgis Milias & Nikolas Anastasopoulos, 28 Oct 2018	Mixed trad 230m, 6, 14
{UIAA} 6+	★★ The three little piglets The dihedral right of Mparoutospilia. Bolted anchors and some indermediate. 60 meter double ropes, stoppers, cams. FA: Georgis Milias, Nikolas Grigoropoulos, Dimitris & Dimitris Matzavinos, 2012	Trad 110m, 3
Kouvelos
{UIAA} 6+	★★ 4 kores kai 1 gios	Mixed trad 260m, 7, 13
{UIAA} 8- A2	★★ Oliki Epanafora 1 5- 45m 2 6 40m 3 6- 40m 4 6- 40m 5 6 45m 6 2 10m 7 8- 35m 8 7 A2 30m 9 7 A2 30m 10 6 40m 11 5- 30m First 6 pitches are easy with many bushes. Loose rock on the first pitch. An alternative to the frist 6 pitches are two dihedral pitches on the right of the pillar called "Diedriki epanafora/Dihedral reset". On the top of the pillar start 3 more difficult pitches. The quality of rock on pitch 9 is bad. That are many rusted bolts and pitons on the route.	Mixed trad 390m, 11, 14
{UIAA} 6+	Diedriki epanafora 1 6 45m 2 6+ 65m 3 3 20m Alternative entry to Oliki epanafora	Trad 130m, 3
{UIAA} 6+/7-	★★★ Agnoston 1 6+ 30m 2 4 50m 3 5+ 30m 4 5+ 60m 5 4 45m 6 4 20m 7 6+/7- 40m 8 5 45m 9 5 50m 10 6+ 20m	Trad 390m, 10
7	Difonia	Trad 270m, 7
Gkiona Plaka Sykias
{UIAA} 6	★★ Mixailidi -Leontiadi 1 6 2 5+ 3 6- 4 6- 5 5+ 6 4+ 7 5+ 8 5- 9 4 10 3+ 11 4- 12 4 13 4 14 3 15 3 16 4 17 4+ 18 4- 19 3+ https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/MichailidiLeontiadi	Trad 1100m, 19
Gkiona Pyramida
{UIAA} 6-	Αυξημένες Προσδοκίες του Σ/Κ https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/AfximenesProsdokiesTouSavatokyriakou	Trad 250m, 5
{UIAA} 6-	★★★ Blotti	Trad 250m
{UIAA} 7+	★★★ Χημικών 1 7- 2 7+ 3 5- 4 6 5 6+ Set: Milias & Ntouros, 1994	Mixed trad 180m, 5, 12
{UIAA} 7+ A1	★★★ Endymionas 1 6 20m 2 7- 25m 3 5+ 35m 4 6+ 50m 5 3 20m 6 7+ A1 35m 7 7 25m Don't underestimate the 1st pitch. The aid climbing of the 6th is not easy. Difficult last pitch.	Trad 210m, 7
{UIAA} 8- A1	★★★ An exeis ton theo sou 1 6- 25m 2 5- 30m 3 8- A0 25m 4 6- 25m 5 8- A1 20m 6 6 35m 7 7- A1 30m 8 7 A1 Nuts and friends up to cam#5	Trad 190m, 8
{UIAA} 6	★★★ Mpougiouklou-Adamakopoulou	Trad 250m, 7
{UIAA} 5	★★★ Spanoudi-Georgiadi	Trad 280m, 8
{UIAA} 5	★★ Incognito https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Incognito	Trad 450m, 11
{UIAA} 4+	Γκέκα-Χατζηδίνα-Σαλυβανιώτη	Trad 450m, 11

{UIAA} 8

A multi pitch divided in two segments. The 1st 8 pitches are 250m and after a 10' walk the upper part is consisted of 9 pitches of 350m total. Second part is easier and more atmospheric.

Set: Vouturopoulos, T. Michailidis & A. Theodoropoulos, 1996

Mixed trad 600m, 17, 50

7a

Luminous Path

Trad 610m, 17

{UIAA} 6+

★★ Notios Anemos

1 5+ 40m

2 6+ 35m

3 6 45m

4 6- 50m

5 4- 45m

6 4 50m

The last three pitches are easy but require some route finding since they don't have any permanent bolts besides the permanent anchors.

Trad 270m, 6

{UIAA} 7

Dalton

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 22

{UIAA} 6

★★★ Afrikana

1 4+ 30m

2 5+ 40m

3 6 30m

4 6- 25m

5 5+ 20m

6 5 30m

7 4+ 25m

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 200m, 7, 12

{UIAA} 8

★★★ Chistoforos Agnoglou

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 43

{UIAA} 7-

★★ Ellinomania

1 6 30m

2 6+ 45m

3 6+ 40m

4 7- 35m

5 6+ 20m

6 6- 25m

7 4- 45m

A mix route that follows the natural lines of the water grooves and cracks. Necessary equipment: 14 quickdraws, a set of nuts and a couple of medium friends. The first pitch is missing a bolt.

FA: D. Aivazidis & D. Mavropoulos, 2005

Maint: 2023

Trad 240m, 7

{UIAA} 6

★★★ Molon Lave

1 5-

2 5-

3 6

Typical Varsova climbing. 3rd pitch follows a crack-dihedral and provides sustained grade VI-, VI climbing.

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 110m, 3, 5

{UIAA} 5+

Bow

Maint: 2023

Trad 160m, 6

{UIAA} 7

★★ Fanatic

1 6 40m

2 7 30m

3 6 40m

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 110m, 3, 11

{UIAA} 7-

★★ Mavro provato

1 4 35m

2 7- 40m

3 6 45m

4 6- 20m

5 3 60m

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/MavroProvato

FA: G. Voutyropoulos - L. Mandrou., 2002

Maint: 2023

Trad 200m, 5

{UIAA} 6-

★★★ Gonia

Maint: 2023

Trad 190m, 6

{UIAA} 6

★★ Kolofotia

1 5+ 40m

2 6 35m

3 5+ 40m

4 4+ 25m

5 4- 40m

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/Kolofotia

Located in between Africana and batman sector. Approach from Africana but stay at the bottom of the wall, find destroyed metal bridge and traverse to start of the route.

FA: D. Hasse - S. Eichinger, 1978

Maint: 2022

Trad 180m, 5

{UIAA} 1

to be deleted

Trad 1m

{UIAA} 7+

★★★ Gatoulis

1 5 40m

2 6 15m

3 6+ 35m

4 4 15m

5 7+ 35m

As the first pitch one can also do the first pitch of kolofotia

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 140m, 5, 4

{UIAA} 6

Kalos sxinosyntrofos

1 6 55m

2 5- 40m

3 5 55m

4 5- 50m

Great first pitch. The route has permanent anchors on all pitches besides the first one but requires some route finding.

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 200m, 4, 1

{UIAA} 6+

★★★ Thalia

1 5 30m

2 6+ 35m

3 6+ 45m

4 6- 30m

Great 2nd and 3rd pitches

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 14

{UIAA} 7-

Kentri

1 6 35m

2 7- 30m

3 7- 45m

4 6- 30m

Requires some gear but has many bolts.

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 16

6a+

★★★ Herod

A very popular trad-style corner.

FA: D. Korres & T. Adamakopoulos, 1979

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 30m, 4

6c+

Batman

4 bolts at the start, for the last part you need Cams or Nuts.

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 30m, 4

{UIAA} 8

Butterfly

Maint: 2022

Trad 3

5c

★★ Pyrgos

1 5b+ 25m

2 4c 20m

3 4c 10m

4 5c 25m

5 4c 20m

Mixed trad 100m, 5, 11

6c+

★★ Rock 'n' Roll

1 6a+ 30m

2 6c+ 30m

3 6b 40m

FA: Dionyssis Stravagenis & Dimitra Hadji, 1990

Mixed trad 100m, 3, 24

6a+

★★ Skala

1 4c 25m

2 5c+ 20m

3 6a+ 30m

4 4a 25m

Rappel down the route 'Pyrgos'

FA: 1975

Trad 100m, 4

{UIAA} 7-

Remali

Mixed trad 85m, 3, 4

6c

★★★ Heavy Metal

1 6b 30m

2 6c 30m

3 5c 35m

FA: Yiannis Agianniotakis & Dimitris Tsitsikas, 1989

Mixed trad 95m, 3, 16

{UIAA} 7+ A0

Geraki

Mixed trad 91m, 3, 17

6b

O Xin Agilin

1 6b 25m

2 6a+ 30m

Set: Aris Theodorpoulos & Dimitris Bakalis, 1994

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 11

5c

★★ Calydonis Direct

1 5c 25m

2 5c 30m

FA: H, H. Lindner & R. Lindner, 1971

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 13

{UIAA} 6+

Mikrula

Mixed trad 56m, 2, 9

6b

★★ Natassa

1 4c 20m

2 6b 25m

3 6a+ 20m

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 65m, 3, 8

5c

★ Calydonios Kapros

1 4c 30m

2 5c 30m

3 5b+ 25m

R1 30m IV+, R2 40m V+, R3 30m V-

Mixed trad 85m, 3, 8

5c

★★ Dromos ton Louloudion Direct

1 4c 30m

2 5c 30m

3 5a 25m

Mixed trad 85m, 3, 10

{UIAA} 6

★ Mnimonio

1 6 60m

2 5+ 60m

3 5+ 50m

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Mnimonio

Mixed trad 170m, 3, 6

{UIAA} 7-

Adolescence

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 130m, 5, 4

{UIAA} 7-

Rilken

Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted

Mixed trad 6, 2

{UIAA} 7

Allergy

Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted.

Trad 5

{UIAA} 5-

★ Flower's Way

Trad 4

{UIAA} 5

★★ Public

Trad 91m, 3

{UIAA} 5

★ Loufa

Trad 91m, 3

{UIAA} 4+

★ Relax

Trad 91m, 3

{UIAA} 4+

★★ Anastasia

Trad 91m, 3

{UIAA} 4

Widow

Trad 91m, 3

{UIAA} 5-

Alkistis

Trad 40m, 2

{UIAA} 4

Schooling Ridge

Trad 61m, 2

{UIAA} 4

★★★ Classic Ridge

Trad 1200m

{UIAA} 8- A1

★★ 60 shades of grey

1 8-

2 A1

The route follows a line just right of the prominent cave, visible from afar.

Required gear: double 60m ropes, 14qd, a set of stoppers, medium to large cams.

Topo

FA: Georgis Milias & Nikolas Anastasopoulos, 28 Oct 2018

Mixed trad 230m, 6, 14

{UIAA} 6+

★★ The three little piglets

The dihedral right of Mparoutospilia. Bolted anchors and some indermediate. 60 meter double ropes, stoppers, cams.

FA: Georgis Milias, Nikolas Grigoropoulos, Dimitris & Dimitris Matzavinos, 2012

Trad 110m, 3

{UIAA} 6+

★★ 4 kores kai 1 gios

Mixed trad 260m, 7, 13

{UIAA} 8- A2

★★ Oliki Epanafora

1 5- 45m

2 6 40m

3 6- 40m

4 6- 40m

5 6 45m

6 2 10m

7 8- 35m

8 7 A2 30m

9 7 A2 30m

10 6 40m

11 5- 30m

First 6 pitches are easy with many bushes. Loose rock on the first pitch. An alternative to the frist 6 pitches are two dihedral pitches on the right of the pillar called "Diedriki epanafora/Dihedral reset". On the top of the pillar start 3 more difficult pitches. The quality of rock on pitch 9 is bad. That are many rusted bolts and pitons on the route.

Mixed trad 390m, 11, 14

{UIAA} 6+

Diedriki epanafora

1 6 45m

2 6+ 65m

3 3 20m

Alternative entry to Oliki epanafora

Trad 130m, 3

{UIAA} 6+/7-

★★★ Agnoston

1 6+ 30m

2 4 50m