Showing all 63 routes.
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6a+ | ★★ Skala
1
4c
25m
2
5c+
20m
3
6a+
30m
4
4a
25m
Rappel down the route 'Pyrgos' FA: 1975 | 100m, 4 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Afrikana
1
4+
30m
2
5+
40m
3
6
30m
4
6-
25m
5
5+
20m
6
5
30m
7
4+
25m
Maint: 2023 | 200m, 7, 12 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 5c | ★★ Pyrgos
1
5b+
25m
2
4c
20m
3
4c
10m
4
5c
25m
5
4c
20m
| 100m, 5, 11 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6- | ★★★ Gonia
Maint: 2023 | 190m, 6 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 5c | ★ Calydonios Kapros
1
4c
30m
2
5c
30m
3
5b+
25m
R1 30m IV+, R2 40m V+, R3 30m V- | 85m, 3, 8 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6- | ★★★ Blotti | 250m | Gkiona | ||
| 5c | ★★ Calydonis Direct
1
5c
25m
2
5c
30m
FA: H, H. Lindner & R. Lindner, 1971 | 55m, 2, 13 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 5 | ★ Loufa | 91m, 3 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 5c | ★★ Dromos ton Louloudion Direct
1
4c
30m
2
5c
30m
3
5a
25m
| 85m, 3, 10 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 5 | ★★ Public | 91m, 3 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 4+ | ★★ Anastasia | 91m, 3 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 5 | ★★ Incognito | 450m, 11 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 4+ | ★ Relax | 91m, 3 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 6a+ | ★★★ Herod
A very popular trad-style corner. FA: D. Korres & T. Adamakopoulos, 1979 Maint: 2022 | 30m, 4 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 6b | ★★ Natassa
1
4c
20m
2
6b
25m
3
6a+
20m
Maint: 2022 | 65m, 3, 8 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 6c+ | ★★ Rock 'n' Roll
1
6a+
30m
2
6c+
30m
3
6b
40m
FA: Dionyssis Stravagenis & Dimitra Hadji, 1990 | 100m, 3, 24 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 7 | ★★ Fanatic
1
6
40m
2
7
30m
3
6
40m
Maint: 2023 | 110m, 3, 11 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 7+ | ★★★ Χημικών
1
7-
2
7+
3
5-
4
6
5
6+
Set: Milias & Ntouros, 1994 | 180m, 5, 12 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Molon Lave
1
5-
2
5-
3
6
Typical Varsova climbing. 3rd pitch follows a crack-dihedral and provides sustained grade VI-, VI climbing. Maint: 2023 | 110m, 3, 5 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 6c | ★★★ Heavy Metal
1
6b
30m
2
6c
30m
3
5c
35m
FA: Yiannis Agianniotakis & Dimitris Tsitsikas, 1989 | 95m, 3, 16 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 5- | ★ Flower's Way | 4 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 6c+ | Batman
4 bolts at the start, for the last part you need Cams or Nuts. Maint: 2022 | 30m, 4 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6 | ★★ Kolofotia
1
5+
40m
2
6
35m
3
5+
40m
4
4+
25m
5
4-
40m
https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/Kolofotia Located in between Africana and batman sector. Approach from Africana but stay at the bottom of the wall, find destroyed metal bridge and traverse to start of the route. FA: D. Hasse - S. Eichinger, 1978 Maint: 2022 | 180m, 5 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 5 | ★★★ Spanoudi-Georgiadi | 280m, 8 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 6 | ★★ Mixailidi -Leontiadi
1
6
2
5+
3
6-
4
6-
5
5+
6
4+
7
5+
8
5-
9
4
10
3+
11
4-
12
4
13
4
14
3
15
3
16
4
17
4+
18
4-
19
3+
https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/MichailidiLeontiadi | 1100m, 19 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 8 | ΦΩΤΕΙΝΟ ΜΟΝΟΠΑΤΙ/SENDERO LUMINOSO
A multi pitch divided in two segments. The 1st 8 pitches are 250m and after a 10' walk the upper part is consisted of 9 pitches of 350m total. Second part is easier and more atmospheric. Set: Vouturopoulos, T. Michailidis & A. Theodoropoulos, 1996 | 600m, 17, 50 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 4 | ★★★ Classic Ridge | 1200m | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 7- | ★★ Ellinomania
1
6
30m
2
6+
45m
3
6+
40m
4
7-
35m
5
6+
20m
6
6-
25m
7
4-
45m
A mix route that follows the natural lines of the water grooves and cracks. Necessary equipment: 14 quickdraws, a set of nuts and a couple of medium friends. The first pitch is missing a bolt. FA: D. Aivazidis & D. Mavropoulos, 2005 Maint: 2023 | 240m, 7 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 4+ | Γκέκα-Χατζηδίνα-Σαλυβανιώτη | 450m, 11 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 7- | ★★ Mavro provato
1
4
35m
2
7-
40m
3
6
45m
4
6-
20m
5
3
60m
https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/MavroProvato FA: G. Voutyropoulos - L. Mandrou., 2002 Maint: 2023 | 200m, 5 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6 | ★ Mnimonio
1
6
60m
2
5+
60m
3
5+
50m
| 170m, 3, 6 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 8- A1 | ★★ 60 shades of grey
1
8-
2
A1
The route follows a line just right of the prominent cave, visible from afar. Required gear: double 60m ropes, 14qd, a set of stoppers, medium to large cams. FA: Georgis Milias & Nikolas Anastasopoulos, 28 Oct 2018 | 230m, 6, 14 | Mparoutospilia | ||
| 6b | O Xin Agilin
1
6b
25m
2
6a+
30m
Set: Aris Theodorpoulos & Dimitris Bakalis, 1994 | 55m, 2, 11 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 7+ A1 | ★★★ Endymionas
1
6
20m
2
7-
25m
3
5+
35m
4
6+
50m
5
3
20m
6
7+ A1
35m
7
7
25m
Don't underestimate the 1st pitch. The aid climbing of the 6th is not easy. Difficult last pitch. | 210m, 7 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 6+ | ★★ The three little piglets
The dihedral right of Mparoutospilia. Bolted anchors and some indermediate. 60 meter double ropes, stoppers, cams. FA: Georgis Milias, Nikolas Grigoropoulos, Dimitris & Dimitris Matzavinos, 2012 | 110m, 3 | Mparoutospilia | ||
| {UIAA} 4 | Widow | 91m, 3 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 8- A1 | ★★★ An exeis ton theo sou
1
6-
25m
2
5-
30m
3
8- A0
25m
4
6-
25m
5
8- A1
20m
6
6
35m
7
7- A1
30m
8
7 A1
Nuts and friends up to cam#5 | 190m, 8 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 6- | Αυξημένες Προσδοκίες του Σ/Κ | 250m, 5 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 8- A2 | ★★ Oliki Epanafora
1
5-
45m
2
6
40m
3
6-
40m
4
6-
40m
5
6
45m
6
2
10m
7
8-
35m
8
7 A2
30m
9
7 A2
30m
10
6
40m
11
5-
30m
First 6 pitches are easy with many bushes. Loose rock on the first pitch. An alternative to the frist 6 pitches are two dihedral pitches on the right of the pillar called "Diedriki epanafora/Dihedral reset". On the top of the pillar start 3 more difficult pitches. The quality of rock on pitch 9 is bad. That are many rusted bolts and pitons on the route. | 390m, 11, 14 | Kouvelos | ||
| {UIAA} 8 | Butterfly
Maint: 2022 | 3 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6+/7- | ★★★ Agnoston
1
6+
30m
2
4
50m
3
5+
30m
4
5+
60m
5
4
45m
6
4
20m
7
6+/7-
40m
8
5
45m
9
5
50m
10
6+
20m
| 390m, 10 | Kouvelos | ||
| {UIAA} 7- | Rilken
Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted | 6, 2 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6+ | ★★ Notios Anemos
1
5+
40m
2
6+
35m
3
6
45m
4
6-
50m
5
4-
45m
6
4
50m
The last three pitches are easy but require some route finding since they don't have any permanent bolts besides the permanent anchors. | 270m, 6 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6+ | ★★★ Thalia
1
5
30m
2
6+
35m
3
6+
45m
4
6-
30m
Great 2nd and 3rd pitches Maint: 2022 | 140m, 4, 14 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 7 | Dalton
Maint: 2023 | 22 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Mpougiouklou-Adamakopoulou | 250m, 7 | Gkiona | ||
| {UIAA} 7- | Kentri
1
6
35m
2
7-
30m
3
7-
45m
4
6-
30m
Requires some gear but has many bolts. Maint: 2022 | 140m, 4, 16 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6 | Kalos sxinosyntrofos
1
6
55m
2
5-
40m
3
5
55m
4
5-
50m
Great first pitch. The route has permanent anchors on all pitches besides the first one but requires some route finding. Maint: 2022 | 200m, 4, 1 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 8 | ★★★ Chistoforos Agnoglou
Maint: 2023 | 140m, 4, 43 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6+ | ★★ 4 kores kai 1 gios | 260m, 7, 13 | Kouvelos | ||
| {UIAA} 7+ | ★★★ Gatoulis
1
5
40m
2
6
15m
3
6+
35m
4
4
15m
5
7+
35m
As the first pitch one can also do the first pitch of kolofotia Maint: 2022 | 140m, 5, 4 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 5+ | Bow
Maint: 2023 | 160m, 6 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6+ | Mikrula
| 56m, 2, 9 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 5- | Alkistis | 40m, 2 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 4 | Schooling Ridge | 61m, 2 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 6+ | Diedriki epanafora
1
6
45m
2
6+
65m
3
3
20m
Alternative entry to Oliki epanafora | 130m, 3 | Kouvelos | ||
| {UIAA} 7- | Adolescence
Maint: 2023 | 130m, 5, 4 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 7 | Allergy
Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted. | 5 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 7a | Luminous Path | 610m, 17 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 1 | to be deleted | 1m | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| {UIAA} 7- | Remali
| 85m, 3, 4 | Varasova - Kryoneri | ||
| 7 | Difonia | 270m, 7 | Kouvelos | ||
| {UIAA} 7+ A0 | Geraki
| 91m, 3, 17 | Varasova - Kryoneri |
Showing all 63 routes.